If you can pick one up thats the same ident code, as far as im aware it does not need to be reprogrammed to the car. BUT heres the big BUT.... the ecu is coded to the cars specification so even if you got it from an identical car ( i mean down to number of doors) that wouldnt mean that youre in the clear.

It may swich the light off BUT when you stamp on the brake it may not act like its supposed to.

so yes you can get a second hand unit, yes you could put it in and it would turn the light off but you need the coding to be done/checked. I believe the items needing to be coded are:

CAN configuration list
VIN number
Variant coding.

you could drive it to the a garage to have it coded, whether your ABS worked if you needed it to when you drove it there is another matter.

 

If you can pick one up thats the same ident code, as far as im aware it does not need to be reprogrammed to the car. BUT heres the big BUT.... the ecu is coded to the cars specification so even if you got it from an identical car ( i mean down to number of doors) that wouldnt mean that youre in the clear.

It may swich the light off BUT when you stamp on the brake it may not act like its supposed to.

so yes you can get a second hand unit, yes you could put it in and it would turn the light off but you need the coding to be done/checked. I believe the items needing to be coded are:

CAN configuration list
VIN number
Variant coding.

you could drive it to the a garage to have it coded, whether your ABS worked if you needed it to when you drove it there is another matter.

If you can pick one up thats the same ident code, as far as im aware it does not need to be reprogrammed to the car. BUT heres the big BUT.... the ecu is coded to the cars specification so even if you got it from an identical car ( i mean down to number of doors) that wouldnt mean that youre in the clear.

It may swich the light off BUT when you stamp on the brake it may not act like its supposed to.

so yes you can get a second hand unit, yes you could put it in and it would turn the light off but you need the coding to be done/checked. I believe the items needing to be coded are:

CAN configuration list
VIN number
Variant coding.

you could drive it to the a garage to have it coded, whether your ABS worked if you needed it to when you drove it there is another matter.

Thanks phil if I could change the unit myself and then get it reprogrammed it would save a lot on VX prices

 

Yes think you might have to do a code test, could try disconnecting the battery for 1/2 hour...Fred in Essex.

 

Try a local garage, vauxhall quoted me 230 for a coil pack to be changed, I went my mates garage £100 for a coil pack and sparks from eurocarparts (always have online sales ) and gave him 20 quid to do it job done

 

Thanks for the reply I think I will get a coil pack on Ebay and change it myself its an easy job

 

What fault codes did vauxhall give you for the ABS fault?

 

Thanks for the reply vauxhall didn't give me any fault codes I should have asked them for them

 

Probably a wheel sensor % wise.....

 

Thanks for the reply without having the test equipment I can only assume that vauxhall are correct in that its the unit thats faulty, I have bought an Opcom on eBay recently but have a problem loading the software on my computer so I cannot get it to work yet

 

Was the light on before you took it in for the test...in theory if a wheel was turned with the ignition on during test it might cause fault code maybe....Fred.

 

Yes I think the light has been on for a while I new it would fail on the abs light but I needed to know if there was any other problems I probably should have taken the bulb out first

 

What's the problem with opcom

 

Without wanting to hijack the thread, my daughters Astra 1.6 has the ABS light on, no spanner . OPCOM reports no DTC faults, is there any simple way of determining which wheel sensor is at fault if this is the issue? The speedo is working fine, and it makes the clunk noise on pull away which I think is the ABS calibrating?

 

Just checking,but did you scan the ABS module for codes or just the ECM ?
You should find measuring blocks under----chassis-----abs
System Voltage,string,[V]
Brake Light Switch 2,string,Active 0V,Inactive 12V
Front Left Wheel Speed,string,[km/h]
Front Right Wheel Speed,string,[km/h]
Rear Left Wheel Speed,string,[km/h]
Rear Right Wheel Speed,string,[km/h]
Valve Relay,string,Inactive,Active
Return Pump,string,Inactive,Active
Front Left Isolation Valve,string,Inactive,Active
Front Left Release Valve,string,Inactive,Active
Front Right Isolation Valve,string,Inactive,Active
Front Right Release Valve,string,Inactive,Active
Rear Left Isolation Valve,string,Inactive,Active
Rear Left Dump Valve,string,Inactive,Active
Rear Right Isolation Valve,string,Inactive,Active
Rear Right Dump Valve,string,Inactive,Active
ABS Telltale,string,Off,On,**ABSLAMP**

 

Hi there, well if you haven't got any codes there is no reason to suppose it is a sensor, how ever if you have got something like OpCom that will read live data, you should be able to monitor all 4 wheel sensors, there normally all the same reading, and you can do resistance testes from the abs ecu to the sensors.....there is a laborious way you can test the sensor voltage with a multimeter but i wouldn't do that unless its was last resort....i would disconnect the battery overnight see if the light goes off...but you will loose radio code if you have one...i would think the fuses are ok but might be worth checking them, the connectors to the sensors can be troublesome, good luck with that.....Fred in Essex.

 

Thx G4, I have recorded live data for previous issues, having looked at that file I can't see which column the ABS sensors come under. Am I looking at a file that used different measuring blocks? I'm a basic OPCOM user and only get to grips with it when something rears its head.

 

I think Mr Valer has it, but your one step up from me i have never used OpCom....lol....Fred.

 

OK so data would appear to indicate "Front right wheel sensor". I cleared the error and on a short drive it didn't re-appear. MOT is coming up so hopefully I can get this sorted. Do you have to change the wheel bearing assembly or can you change just the sensor? I have seen one internet video where it looks built into the hub. TIA, and thanks to those that have assisted so far.

 

Whole hub change. Nice and easyish job. But before I spent a penny I would check the connector and wiring. And measure the sensor with a multimeter 1st.

 

Hi Fire, this is still ongoing, the guy that was doing the pre MOT check changed the bearing but the light is still on. He’s changing the other bearing, I’m not convinced the issue isn’t wiring. Can anyone give me an idea of what a multimeter should read if all’s well? TIA

 

I changed the ABS module on my car after ABS fault. Thanks to the guys on here for all the advice. Get the same part no as you find on the pump. It does not need re programme and ABS will work

 

All the codes I get point to wheel sensors, can this still result in an ABS module needing to be changed?

 

I would have Vauxhall do diagnostic check to find out what is wrong first. They can check the whole system for about £90. Better than swapping out parts using guesswork

 

Acriduk, I have OPCOM so don't need Vauxhall to rob me, worth every penny. You'll find many stories of how main dealers don't know how their vehicles work in old age. Thanks for your thoughts though.

 

I had a master tech go over mine for the standard price of a diagnosis and he did find the fault. He was able to do tests that were outside my scope. In the end I paid out for that and £37.50 for a second hand ABS module that works perfectly. You can end up spending more by guessing. Just a thought. I hope you resolve problem

 

I had abs fault codes jumping from side to side.
I replaced the ecu and rewired the looms from the ecu to the hubs. Then fitted new hubs and been trouble free for over 3 years now. But try the wires first as they are a know weakness due to the twist and turns of the loom +ware and tare plus age ontop . They are cheap and easiest fix. The and ecu don't fail as often as the hubs and wiring.

 

You should be able to test the sensors with an ohm meter make sure resistance is same on all or both front and both back, prob easier from the module end, you can spin the wheels and check for a small ac voltage, or with ac voltmeter take it up the road get access to the leads from the ecu and put meter across leads while traveling at a constant speed...not easy, if you can use a scope it would be a lot easier...make sure you dont have a lot of movement in any of the wheel bearings....Fred in Essex.

 

I wouldn't measure the ABS sensor for resistance Fred. Use AC voltage range instead, probe into the 2 wires with the part either connected or not. And spin the wheel. Without looking for the specific values you usually can measure 1 volt peak to peak. I usually make sure the sensor is connected, and re measure at the ABS module end. Taking VW golfs as an example they are prone to chafing the sensor wire and allowing moisture which turns the copper wire to a black dust! So always measuring at both ends just to be sure. Of course if you have opcom you can check all 4 sensors at the same time

 

Well had a peek at the datas and what I said above is a load of old tosh! This system uses a current generator (the sensor) So connect an ammeter inline with the sensor and depending on system parameters you should be able to measure either 7mA or 14mA. Simples LOL

 

Well i just thought IF they are inductive type a resistance measurement might prove they are not open circuit, if there not inductive type it would be a complete waste of time i would think.....there are magnetic type and prob hall effect type, all depends what they are....from Fred.

 

Totally agree with you Fred, but hehe There are so many types and without knowing what you may be dealing with, it is so easy to get a false reading. Back in the old days of testing sensors you could put good money on the fact you would be able to test the sensor using the 1 v peak to peak AC voltage method. And the module was looking for anything. The only thing that changed was the frequency. Now? Oh no now they demand a specific bloody parameter to measure, then if another sensor doesnt agree with what they should be seeing, the whole bloody lot has kittens and goes off into the corner to sulk!