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Limp mode/EML - DPF? Air Flow Mass? Air Intake Pressure?

23K views 29 replies 3 participants last post by  smitrocks  
#1 ·
Hi guys, first post on here and looking for some advice on a problem my local (non dealer) garage have been unable to solve.

A few weeks ago my Insignia (2.0 CDTi Elite, '58 plate) went into limp mode and the EML came on shortly after. It gradually lost more and more power, eventually dropping to just 2000 revs at best.

(Note: the SVS light was on prior to this as one or more glow plugs were faulty)

I took it to my local garage who does my MOT/Servicing and asked them to do a diagnostic check as they're cheaper than the dealers. They advised me the code was the DPF and they would do a regeneration to clear it. The regen failed so they gave me a fuel additive and advised me to drive it hard for a few days then take it back in to them to try the regen again. I did what I could with the car limited, particularly in upper gears, then took it back in and the regen failed again but the dpf code was gone and only the air flow mass meter and glow plugs were showing as faults. They gave me another DPF cleaner anyway, as they were assuming it was still not clearing.

I replaced all four glow plugs and the air flow mass meter then took it back into them to clear the codes. The codes were read again before they cleared them and showed faults with the glow plugs, air flow mass and two others which if I remember correctly were to do with air intake and air pressure but they thought this was because I'd had the Air Flow Mass Sensor in and out. No DPF code present at this point.

They cleared all codes and ran two diagnostic checks again and nothing came up. Initially the car seemed fine but within 30 miles the car was limping again and the EML light eventually came on again. I'm now away from home and unsure what to do next as I can't get to my garage.

It's worth noting that when I drive with the MAF sensor unplugged the car runs perfectly but I'm concerned that doing so will damage the engine in some way. Should I be doing this?

Is it enough to just clear the codes or does the engine need more convincing that the fault is gone?

Or is there something else going on here that could be causing this?

Any help is much appreciated. Hope I've given enough info... maybe too much!

Thanks,

Smitrocks
 
#2 ·
this really needs some live data running tbh, looking and clearing codes isn't enough here, we need to know what the maf is seeing go past in terms of mg/s and would like to able to see I the glow plug relay is working right, these plugs are constantly on! Not just when you start, they keep the cylinders warm enough to make the fine spray the injector creates ignite properly.
 
#3 ·
Thanks Steve, not sure how I'd supply that. Not even sure my local garage could so I'm assuming I may have to go to the dealers after all and pay again for diagnostics. Local garage just use a Snap-On handheld diagnostic computer, they've shown me codes on it but no live data.

If I had to guess I'd say the glow plugs are probably fixed now as only two showed faulty and they've all been swapped out. Obviously that's an assumption but I'll have them checked again at some point. That fault had also been there for some time before I got round to swapping the plugs and it never caused anything more than the SVS light to come on.

I'm thinking more along the lines of a burst pipe or air pressure sensor but don't want to just keep buying parts and getting nowhere.

I did have a dealership service a week or two before this happened, wondering if they could have damaged anything in the process.
 
#4 ·
top intercooler pipe does split, you should hear an unusual whooshing sound if so, they should be able to do live data but its a question of the ability to determine a fail from that, these will never regenerate while an emissions related code is logged in the ecu!

chances are its the maf, but at the cost of a new, genuine replacement and then it not being that is a big gamble in my eyes.

At a guess, how could you say they work? Not even I could look and guess, if they aren't you tend to get a growl of diesel knock as it hits 2k on the rev counter, that could go on till 3k ish, then clear again after, overfuelling you see.
 
#5 ·
You're right there, it is a guess about the plugs. Suppose what is making me think that is because I knew that fault was there prior to any performance issues and just hadn't got round to replacing them. Not ruling it out but it never affected performance before.

I already gambled and replaced the MAF with a new Bosch one. That was after trying to clean the old one with contact cleaner but still getting same issues... I got the part for just ÂŁ56 so although it might turn out to be a waste it could have been more expensive.

As for the intercooler pipe, I've not noticed any whooshing and I'm not certain where to look for damage. Where is that located exactly?

Thanks for your advice.
 
#6 ·
If you open the bonnet and look down to your right, just in front of the battery, you will see a large black pipe, this is the boost pipe that splits, if you feel the back of the pipe with your fingers then you may be able to feel the split, this split pipe will always give you a maf code and is a Very common problem.
 
#10 ·
Smitrocks, I apologise for what seems like my ignorance on this one, I truly didn't know it set a maf code with split pipe, ive honestly never got to the point of plugging them in for this problem, its the first thing we check on any diesels nowadays and the tone of the turbo is slightly dirtier so a dead giveaway.

And yeah, ÂŁ85 a pop! :( seen a few with cracks in the egr coolant housing and the first one I phoned dealer for was somewhere in the region of ÂŁ800!
Expensive parts on the fiat engine!
 
#12 ·
No worries mate, as I said at the start, any advice is welcome. I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination but know a little so sometimes just need a nod in the right direction. Nothing to say its the hose yet but if it is I'll be happy just to know what's been causing this.

As for the live running data. It would appear you can get an iphone app called Engine Link for ÂŁ3.99 and an ELM wifi adapter that plugs into the OBD port for about ÂŁ5 and you can get all sorts of readings on it and reset codes etc. Maybe I can save that cash though and put it towards a ÂŁ100 hose!!!
 
#14 ·
Ok gents, just checked it. Didn't even have to feel around it, blatant split in the hose on the front of it. Slightly annoyed my garage didn't spot this or at least consider it, maybe we've become too dependant on following fault codes....

Bonus points to Andy but thanks for all the responses.

Anyway, the hose is bigger than I expected so that sort of explains the price but I probably can't get one for at least a few days where I am. Am I doing the car any damage by driving it like this? Keeping in mind the MAF is unplugged to help it run better......
 
#15 ·
The thing you need to consider is the DPF, with the split pipe the engine will be black smoking due to underboost its causing and this smoke will be loading the dpf which wont be able to regen again due to the split pipe so try and limit your use until its repaired or the next thing will be a dpf thats fully saturated and needing to be replaced, that wont be cheap!!!
 
#16 ·
That's good news @smitrocks, again I apologise for being a bit blunt yesterday but this is the first thing I personally would expect any garage to check on a td engine.

Some things wind me up, especially them garages that are happy to take cash for simply clearing faults without determination of the real fault, I understand we have to make a living but honestly, to lift the bonnet and feel the boost hoses takes all of 5 mins, just shows what you as a customer are up against nowadays and why there is so little faith in any garages whatsoever.

where do you live? Maybe a local breakers may have a decent one in for a little less cost, andyl is very right on this causing further problems within the engine and exhaust system as it all just cokes up to the point where nothing can breath anymore.
 
#17 ·
That's what I was worried about Andy.

Problem is I'm away from home this week and not home until Saturday, in a remote area in the Scottish Borders although I live near Glasgow, hence the difficulty of getting one. Will see what I can get while I'm here but in the meantime I may attempt to patch it somehow purely to stop the rot.

Found a site (Vauxhall Parts World) that do it for ÂŁ89.50 so might try and get a dealership to price match it and just go and get it.

I know a few breakers in my own area Steve but round here may be difficult to come by, and if I did find one I doubt it'd be on the scale of the ones in my area.
 
#23 ·
Well that's it patched up, not driven it yet but will plug the MAF back in and give it a run soon. Trying to source the part fairly locally to see if I can get it price matched by Vauxhall.

Can't see any way into the back of the fog light surround though to get to the bottom end which is worrying. Very little space around and below the battery to get down to it. Can it be removed from the front? Don't want to end up damaging that.
 
#25 ·
Well that went better than expected. Haven't been unable to find the part as yet but the patch has worked a treat. The car is running fine with MAF connected and the Engine Management Light even disappeared after about an 40 minutes driving and hasn't come back on! Still hoping to get the part soon but if I don't at least I know I can drive the car safely until I'm back in Glasgow.