[andyl]

Is it number 29 in this picture, like this one below,..... RETRACTABLE HARD TOP ROOF [CONVERTIBLE (L67)] VAUXHALL ASTRA-H

 

[prodluzovak]

hello i might ask. I have a problem with the roof. He doesn't want to open up to me. I looked at the sensors and I have a problem with the 'Hardtop Open' Sensor Status Active. It should be inactive, but I have no idea where the problem is. Does anyone know exactly where this sensor is? Thanks for the info friends.

 

[andyl]

Its on the passenger side roof hinge, try powering the roof closed with a power probe to see if it resets.
EDIT
Rear Left hinge as your car may be left hand drive......

 

[prodluzovak]

I already tried that today. I turned on the hydraulic pump. I think the roof is closed.
These three sensors show the correct values. Only the one I said unfortunately not.

'Hardtop Closed' Contact Switch Status,Active
Frame Contact Switch Status,Active
Front Latch Contact Switch Status,Active

In addition, OPCOM shows me an error

B138A - Supply Voltage Output Circuit Low Voltage or Signal Range / Performance

 

[andyl]

Does B138A clear down. Are the roof pump relays pushed in correctly. Also check Fuse FB1 50A in the engine bay fuse box, its one of the fuses under the plastic 'T' piece at the top of the fuse box.

Marked in the picture,.........

 

[Doozer]

I stumbled across this little gem while trying to fix mine, might be helpful to someone.
Update on mine still trying to find one of those sensor switches.

 

[prodluzovak]

Hi, so I went through all the cables today and found that the cables at the trunk switch were badly connected. The trunk locking didn't work for me before. Now everything is working well. I enclose the output from OPCOM regarding the sensor. The only problem is the sensor blinds. I tried it, but unfortunately it doesn't work. It will probably be defective. I'll have to get him somewhere.

 

[andyl]

So what about the other faults you had, you started with a Hardtop open sensor fault, then went to a system low voltage fault now your saying its all down to the boot lock not being plugged in correctly,.. so how did you fix everything else???......... im confused.............

 

[prodluzovak]

I'm honestly confused about that, too. I recently bought a car and someone rummaged in it unprofessionally. Today I went through all the cables and disconnected the battery and the control unit from the roof. I also solved the problem with locking the suitcase. He didn't want to lock himself before. When I fixed this, OPCOM no longer showed the mistake I made yesterday. Now the only problem is with the blind sensor. The sensor will probably be damaged. Or I don't know where exactly the problem might be. Mainly that you can no longer hear gong when I drive. That's a relief.

 

[Doozer]

I have completely bypassed the left hand frame contact switch with bullet connectors and everything works perfectly. Do you think it's ok to just leave it like that?

 

[andyl]

If the roofs working ok and no faults codes then it should be ok.

 

[Doozer]

If the roofs working ok and no faults codes then it should be ok.

Happy days then and thanks for all your help.

 

[SteveJF]

Hi, my wife had an issue with the hood (nylon gears worn on the parcel shelf flaps) managed to get home and I put the hood up manually. Ordered and fitted the brass gears, but couldn't get the hood to reset. Booked into local Vauxhall dealer to see what they could do, apparently nothing, in fact made it worse by disconnecting the boot solenoid cable so couldn't get into the boot and charged me £250 for the time!! Car sat for sometime as only use it during summer, read this thread and had another go, managed to get the boot open (long socket extension and Mr tickle arms) through the back seat. Tried the power probe trick on the hydraulic pump relay ( thanks for the tip AndyL) but to no avail, traced the pump wiring back to the relay and found that the relay normal state (not energised) is configured so the pump cable (white) is down to 0volts (- black). Had to remove the relay and then use the power probe on the white cable, and bingo! pump started and locked the hood down. Just to check it was fully home I depressed the the boot catch and heard the solenoid activate (inhibited by the unlocked hood position). Now all back up and running ready for summer.

 

[prodluzovak]

Hi, friends, it's warm, so I tried to take down the roof. Everything went great, but I got stuck that one bar would not work. It just twitches a little and nothing more. I already have the gears replaced. So I don't know where the problem might be.

These errors appear in the diagnostics:
B368D - Right Parcel Shelf Flap Sensor Circuit High Voltage or Motor Blocked
(5A) - Not present

B129D - Right Parcel Shelf Flap Motor Current not Plausible with Sensor Position
(5A) - Not present

Here is a video of how it behaves:

 

[andyl]

Have you tried helping the flap to open, can you hear the motor spinning or is it jammed.

 

[SteveJF]

Hi, friends, it's warm, so I tried to take down the roof. Everything went great, but I got stuck that one bar would not work. It just twitches a little and nothing more. I already have the gears replaced. So I don't know where the problem might be.

These errors appear in the diagnostics:
B368D - Right Parcel Shelf Flap Sensor Circuit High Voltage or Motor Blocked
(5A) - Not present

B129D - Right Parcel Shelf Flap Motor Current not Plausible with Sensor Position
(5A) - Not present

Here is a video of how it behaves:

Hi, the parcel shelf flap motors work on time and electrical current rather than a location sensor. In normal operation when electrical current is applied a timer starts in the roof ecu program. The program is then looking for an increase in electrical current (which would happen once the flap was out and could move no further) after a certain time (approximately 2.5 second +/- .5 time window) after which it would assume the flap is fully out/closed and continue the sequence.
The issue many have had with the original nylon gears is that once worn the motor would either jam (from broken gears) increasing the electrical current too early (out side the time window) or continue running as flaps partially moving (no increase in current) and miss the time window. Both would bring up your fault codes.
I would first check there is no old nylon gear in the mechanism, any fouling will increase the current to early, followed by the free running of the motor (ie. Remove the flap) this will still raise a fault , but will check the motor is functioning as it should.
A little confusing but hope it helps,
S

 

[prodluzovak]

Hi, I tried to connect the motor to the other side and it works. When I try the engine from the other side, it does exactly the same thing. It just moves a little and nothing more. Looks like it probably won't be an engine. I still tried to replace the wiring harness leading to the engine, but unfortunately it did not bring any change either. This is what the sensors look like. I think maybe well.

 

[BORNXenon]

I already have the gears replaced. So I don't know where the problem might be.

I may still be the gears, there have been more than a few instances of dodgy brass gears that aren't quite right causing issues with the winglets.
The best gears appear to be made by X8R and are identical to the nylon gears apart from the fact they are made of brass!

 

[prodluzovak]

Do you think there could be a problem with the cables? I have already replaced the cables to the engine. But could anyone else do it? Thanks for the info guys.

 

[prodluzovak]

Hi, so I finally fixed it. The cable to the Parcel Shelf sensor has been broken. So the roof works! Great