[Valer]

Oh well at least it's put finding the sensor to bed
regarding the diagrams,as long as they're LNQ the year shouldn't make any difference,
the diagrams for the Chevvy Captiva with the the 2.2 LNQ are identical.

 

[Gyislander]

New crankshaft sensor finally arrived but as expected it made no odds ! Time to move onto timing I think.

 

[Wilsonvee6]

Feel gutted for you mate, all that work you've put in for nowt so far. I've got an Antara myself although I've never had any trouble with it but always interested in what probs crop up, just never know.

Have you got all the gen on checking the valve timing? Never done the Antara myself but see from photos on the web that the timing chain drives just the one camshaft (exhaust I think) which directly gear drives the other one. Should simplify checking the timing marks.

 

[Gyislander]

Yes I've got the full manual thanks. Typical of the Antara that you've got to take half the car apart to get at anything ! Injectors and pipes to get at the cam timing marks plus engine mount, sump, oil filter adapter, front cover etc to get at the crank marks. Really need to get to all marks to be sure even if the cams are out. I'll see if I can confidently find TDC with straws down the injector holes to save a heap of work though there may also be a slim change of sighting the crank marks when the seal comes out ... I can but hope.

 

[Gyislander]

Halleluja ,,, ITS SORTED

So here's the final chapter in this epic saga.
Took off the fuel pipes, injectors and camshaft cover to get to the timing marks really hoping I'd find a problem but top 3 marks were spot on.

Took out the crankshaft pulley seal and was able to see the mark on the sprocket though not the corresponding mark on the engine. The manual says its at the 4 o'clock position and using the bolt as a guide it looked pretty spot on too.

Looking at the exhaust sprocket I noticed that it was in 2 pieces, The sprocket fits onto a dowel on the camshaft so can't be on wrong so why the outer ring and did it move independently ?

There was nothing about it in the manual when removing or refitting the sprocket but when I read the section on exhaust camshaft replacement there was reference to special tool EN-50433 Exhaust Camshaft Sprocket Fixing Adapter. It vaguely showed it fitting into the sprocket but didn't really explain how or why. I rotated the engine halfway and noted a hole in the outer sprocket ring and one on the inner which didn't line up . Googled the special tool and its basically a T piece with an M6 threaded section then a smooth bit about M8. Assuming then that the 2 sprocket pieces were wrongly assembled I removed the exhaust camshaft. The white marks you see were reference points as I thought I might need to roll it out against the inlet sprocket. There was just enough room to slide it sideways though.

When out I put a thin screwdriver through the hole and found that the outer ring was heavily sprung anticlockwise. Using increasing sizes of screwdrivers and a clamp I got the outer ring a tooth clockwise and put it back together. Why its sprung I don't know but perhaps to counter any backlash.

Clearly whoever rebuilt the engine didn't lock the rings on disassembly and didnt realise they moved. The long and short of that being that although the timing appeared spot on because the marks on the outer ring, the exhaust cam was infact retarded by 1 tooth, equal to about 3 degress. So this has been why the readings from the cam sensor didn't make sense to the ECU.

All bolted back together, primed the fuel rail and fired into life immediately. A couple of coolant flushes to do re original fault and the cars ready to go ,,, although given the passage of time it may be surplus to requirements as its replacement is proving popular.

This has been some journey, the most confusing problem and most difficult to access car I've seen in 40 years as a DIY mechanic. As always a good forum is invaluable and I am extremely grateful to forum members for taking an interest, educating and encouraging me along the way, in particular Nick and Valer.

 

[andy_v]

well done fella

 

[Koicarpkeeper]

Never seen that come up on here before so well done for working it out.

 

[Wilsonvee6]

Well done mate, glad you got it in the end.

 

[Valer]

Excellent news @Gyislander to see your perseverance paid off,well done ?

 

[vanders]

Goodevening,

Very interesting thread, have also an antara here, without known history.
As the previous workshop give up.. and the owner sold the shop to someone else, and they also unable to get it fixed.

So have the car here.. first found out that the inlet manifold has broken swirls and the vacuum actuator leaks..also everything very poluted lots of black sludge..

Also very hard to get the manifold off without engine out.. nothing visible even with a mirror..

Have made a remote starter to start under the hood, because i liked to check the compression first as i have my doubt the timing is correct.

The timing marks on the camshafts are pointing together, and the camshaft is on 90 degree ( not tdc as this is a position to install chain and head )

But to be sure i will take the pulley off and looking if the spline of the woodruff is up.. and the two arrows pointing..

First i have to make a tool to block the crankshaft, and take the pulley off..job for tomorrow, and indeed a joker / clown for not putting clear timingmarks on ... as have read in this tread.

Keep you informed.. and will post some pictures

 

[vanders]

Pictures from today.. all marks ok, exhaust sprocket hole inline..

 

[vanders]

Some more.. also maked a tool to get the pulley off, with strong airgun no succes..

 

[vanders]

 

[Gyislander]

Assuming you have the bolt face vertical then the mark looks to be at 4 o'clock as it should be. Does it look like the engine front cover and sump have been off before ? If there's no indication of that then I doubt if the timing will have been touched since new.

 

[vanders]

Yes, with the spline ( red arrow ) straight up.. point at 4 o clock

 

[vanders]

Have the injectors and the fuel lines connected.. all the sensors, and valves connected.. electronically only , without inlet manifold ( as te original is broken ) other is on his way..
also without glowplugs.. for easyer priming.
When i turn the key..relays ticking.. starter not turning.. let the key in ignition position, try several times..pump in tank running for a while and starter goes around. ( battery good, also connected to charger 13.4 volts on the battery )
Diesel on fuel rail.. but after several attemps nothing comes out off the nozzle.

Will order opcom and further investigate.. or maybe someone have some more ideas?

 

[Gyislander]

You might be better starting a fresh thread to get more attention/help, giving the history of your troubles and tests to date.

 

[vanders]

Good idea.