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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. So after searching these forums for two days I decided to post as there seems to be a lot of info on the same/very similar problems but I'm a total novice.

Bought the above (2011 1.7cdti exclusiv model I think!) Two days ago from a dealer (it was a part ex so sold no come back etc which is fine..). After a bus wrote my trusty fiesta off two weeks ago (needed a bigger car anyway as 4 kids one on the way).

So.. silly me didn't check until afterwards but the problems are-

The panel where the heating controls are- nothing works apart from the blower speed.
No AC light or the one next to it or rear window one etc
Doesn't change temp- stuck on hot
Doesn't change position- always blowing at windscreen.

Ok so I thought.. I will deal with it for now and just open windows on hot days. At least it's not and on the windscreen for winter...

But it's annoying me.

And we noticed a stink... It smells like mould.. damp.. I was convinced something had been spilled or there was mould but I spent hours cleaning the upholstery with a Vax carpet cleaner with antimicrobial stuff and the smell is still there. It seems (to me) that it is coming from the front of the car.. sort of passenger footwell into engine bay type area although I may also have just been sniffing far too much.

I looked up the fuse locations for anything to do with heating AC etc and checked. Fuse 27 (5A) under bonnet present and correct. Fuse 3 is a big 40A one not there but also not there on the diagrams I have seen so guess it's not meant to be? Also noted that fuse 27 on another diagram is for something else and actually 5A (as the ones where is says f27 is related to ac etc it's listed as 7.5A but the one in that spot on mine is 5A).

Rear box.. seems no fuse 14 which .. according to some diagrams is related?

I'm guessing after reading thread Upton thread that this/these are common problems but the variety of fixes I have read for different things baffles me. I only just afforded the car so don't have money for costly repairs so at the very least I'd like to narrow it down.
The car came with receipts of the recall work q couple year ago. It was also serbjveeo every year until 2019 and only driven 3k a year average over the last 4yr. No service recorded last year.

Also read that the smell could be linked .
Something to do with bacteria in some part of the system or filters etc?

Read that the position thing is a poorly designed part and people have accessed some type of wheel/cog to manually turn the fan directions but then wasn't sure as obviously all the other problems stem from that area. Just that the speed works fine.

I'll try attach images of my control panel and both fuse boxes.

Hell hugely appreciated
T
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that smell is the stagnant water from the air-conditioning, to sort out the fan and flap controls start with the basics. get some spray switch cleaner, disconnect the battery (i'm assuming you have the pin code card? and owners manual with FSH) check the canin filter is new, thats cheap and easy to do. put fuses in and check with a voltmeter whats drawing current/voltage and what isnt. check battery earths and chassis earths.... you'd be surprised how often dust causes issues with shorts..
 

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That REC is calling for a fist approching very fast someone's face.

Disconnect the battery. You will deal with the radio later (actually it might not ask for the code if I remember correctly as it is paired to the car).
Clean the rec as much as you can including with a contact cleaner. Check fuses.
Remove the uec (front fuse box). Remove all fuses and relays. Clean it as much as you can including with a contact cleaner. Put it into your oven, at least 50Cdeg (more is safe as well, but that temp. is the lowest that is used in electronics factories) for at least 2-3h. Put everything back.

Check under the windscreen if the gutter pipes are not blocked causing an overflow through the cabin filter into the cabin.
Replace the cabin filter - you have to remove the blower, right side on the passenger foot well.
Find the water exit pipe from the A/C system - can be blocked.

Air flaps are controlled electrically. Any issue with fuses/rec/uec will give you those symptoms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok need to get my head around all this and get help as IV no idea 😂. I dont recognise half the words .. damn! Took one more photo (the stuff is odour neutraliser which I am now aware won't do a thing!). What's this spongey looking /feeling yellow thing?

I don't have volt meters etc so I guess this is a job to pass to... Auto elec or mechanic? Which one?

Pregnancy does nothing but make bad smells.worse and it's making me feel sick every time I drive this thing .

Thanks so far :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The previous owner clearly had a dog as the back fuse box is full of dog hair ... As I guess you've seen !

Re the fuses . Does anyone know if I am clearly missing any fuses? The front one has two diff fuse assignment diagrams online (same.set out) and I thought it was fuse 3 (missing) but seems some photos I have seen /diagrams there's not necessarily one there. And the back one a fuse that is something to do with AC or heating missing.. I am going to buy fuses anyway . Had a box but they're standard not the mini blade so don't fit and I don't have any 40v ones anyway or relays or anything really x
 

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So you are a lady (mens can't be pregnant, yet) :) Not a problem, we can help you.
You can give it to an auto electrician, or try to sort it out on your own, it is not that difficult as it sounds and much cheaper.
You can use any torch for checking fuses - basically you place them between the battery and the bulb.

That yellow thing is an insulation foam.

REC - rear electrical centre (fuse box), UEC - underhood electrical centre (fuse box).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ah thanks you.. and the rec.. is that the disgusting dog hair filled back fuse box ?😂

Oh I was going to pull it off.glad I didn't !
 

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Any fuse slot that does not have two metal contacts inside - don't bother putting fuses in those because there is either no wiring going to it or from it. Just saves you wasting fuses
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok :)

Ordered some contact cleaner from Amazon. Will buy fuses (assortment) tomorrow. Maybe the big 40A one (big long thing ) too..

I'll clean all the crap out from the back fuse box and then go from there. I need to buy a new filter and borrow some torx tools as don't have them...

Is it common.. for everything but the fan speed on that unit to be not working or even lighting up?

T
 

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Poundland sell a half decent set of around 30 bits which include the torx bits.

They also sell a ratchet screwdriver with some bits.

But Tesco have a screwdriver 🪛 set for just a pound that is very good, comes with 6 bits but you still need the torx (y) bits.

So for £2 you will be fully equipped.
 

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Big long should not be needed unless it is the high one. They are visible if the wire is broken.

Start with fuses.
 
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