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Z16XE Zafira camshaft locking tool kit

4K views 41 replies 4 participants last post by  nicvaux 
#1 ·
Hi, I have a Zafira A ( I know! ) with the Z16XE engine and can’t seem to find a camshaft lock tool kit ? Seem to be plenty about for the later engines. Will they work or has anybody any info or got a link for a suitable one. Many thanks
i did do a search on here but the links were all Error 404
 
#8 ·
Tbh, if your taking the head off it might be worth taking the sump off and unbolting the controds and replacing the piston rings as they are know to stick on this engine and often break on removal. Might be worth doing stem seals too if the heads off. Get the guides checked too.
 
#9 ·
Let us know what you find, it has to be something drastic if you have no compression on that one cylinder - badly burnt valve, cracked or holed piston etc.
 
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#12 ·
Hi, started to take the head off this afternoon, didn’t get past the lambda sensor haha. Ordered a socket for this ( 22mm ) and just hoping I can move it possibly with a bit of WD40 or heat.
Does anyone know if there are anymore special tools required I need to order while I wait.
I have more or less a complete selection definitely to 19mm (3/8”and 1/2“ and 1/4“ up to 13mm) deffo and quite a lot after that but a bit random! Thanks again.
 
#13 ·
Hi, started to take the head off this afternoon, didn’t get past the lambda sensor haha. Ordered a socket for this ( 22mm ) and just hoping I can move it possibly with a bit of WD40 or heat.
Does anyone know if there are anymore special tools required I need to order while I wait.
I have more or less a complete selection definitely to 19mm (3/8”and 1/2“ and 1/4“ up to 13mm) deffo and quite a lot after that but a bit random! Thanks again.
 
#15 ·
Now struggling with detaching the wiring trough on top of the injectors, can’t really see any fixings and don’t want to get too heavy handed! Also with regards to the flywheel locking tool, think I can see where it goes and can feel it biting but does someone have to hold it in place while the Crank Pulley nut is undone or am I missing something ? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 
#19 ·
Now struggling with detaching the wiring trough on top of the injectors, can’t really see any fixings and don’t want to get too heavy handed! Also with regards to the flywheel locking tool, think I can see where it goes and can feel it biting but does someone have to hold it in place while the Crank Pulley nut is undone or am I missing something ? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Never myself used a crank locking tool only the double cam sprockets locking tool.
I make reference marks for the crank sprocket with tipex or the wife’s nail polish before removing the belt.


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#16 ·
Anyone? , desperate to get this head of today and the manual makes me think it can’t be hard as it just says “ detach plug strip from injectors with wiring trough and place to one side “. Can’t see any fixings so does it just pull off ? Thanks
 
#24 ·
I'd carry on with your initial plan, you will probably get away with a new valve provided the seat can be salvaged.
 
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#27 ·
I would remove the piston personally just to check the rings on number 4.

I would hate to skip this bit and put it all back together to only find that number4 still has no compression.
Speaking from experience as that’s the same mistake I made 2months ago trying to rush. [emoji4]

If the valve pieces have scored that bore then there is still a chance that there lodged between the bore and the rings, the pieces only have to be small fragments.


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#30 ·
Thanks for the reply. Couple of questions, reading up new con rod bolts are recommended but can’t see any listed online. Does that mean no one bothers?
Would you hone the bores with one of those cheap tools or just deglaze it lightly with a hand abrasive ? Thanks
 
#38 ·
Hi,

Got the cylinder head back yesterday, couple of new valves, a skim and all valves lapped in so fingers crossed.
Today I removed the sump, con rods and pistons. As was said on here the oil scraper rings were jammed up with crud so will fit new set of rings. Pistons look ok with no scoring.
Thought I would check or replace the oil pump while everything is stripped down but the crankshaft sprocket is on very tight and can’t move it. Tried a few firm taps with a wooden wedge behind it but don’t want to force it any more and damage oil pump casing.

Any one any ideas on that one ?

Also if the oil pump is bad, would you repair original GM one or replace with a compatible pump. FAI one is quite cheap at the moment.

Cheers
 
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