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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a small issue with my conversion i have undertaken everything went in fine. no problem at all i fitted all the electronics and dizzy and rotor. fuel line etc etc, then..... i put the battery on..... then turned the key of life! and nothing at all...... so i did abit of trouble shotting.

fuel pump - thats pumping fuel into the rail
timing marks - they line up fine
dizzy rotor - in the right postion for TDC
dizzy sparking - sparking
crank shaft sensor - working
maf sensor - connected
starter is turning the engine over
but then nothing at all!


any ideas????
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
mmmm i didn't get them.... but i can smell fuel going in so i assume they are i shall check them tomorrow just to make sure i will double check everything
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
right i may have found the problem.... which is abit of a bummer i have read the crank wheel is hall affect? on the x20 block not magnetic inductive? like the c20 engines now this could be the problem ? if so i have a problem.... i have an engine i cant use..... BUGGERRRR!!!




ignore this - i think im being stupid there both the same thing well thats what a thread said in mig....
 

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Jaguar XF 2.2 Sport LE with extra toys
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Could it be that the timing is set up 180 degrees out ie you have set it all up for No 1 cylinder but its actually No4 cylinder thats on the firing stroke.
 

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97% Mechanic
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right i may have found the problem.... which is abit of a bummer i have read the crank wheel is hall affect? on the x20 block not magnetic inductive? like the c20 engines now this could be the problem ? if so i have a problem.... i have an engine i cant use..... BUGGERRRR!!!
ignore this - i think im being stupid there both the same thing well thats what a thread said in mig....
If you are using the 8v crank sensor, 8v wiring and 8v ecu this shouldn't be an issue

What engine loom are you using?? i know on the old cav 8v loom they have an ignition connecter above the gearbox. I'd check your power feeds to the Ecu and the earth points too.

Also have you connected the lead that goes to the battery on the correct terminal (its a live but its black iirc, been a while since i've worked on a cav)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Could it be that the timing is set up 180 degrees out ie you have set it all up for No 1 cylinder but its actually No4 cylinder thats on the firing stroke.

no4? i was under the impression cylinder head 1 and 3 was the first to start as the fireing.. as the order is 1342 but i will check tomoz to make sure i havent got the timing out by 180 degrees that would be a major skool boy error
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you are using the 8v crank sensor, 8v wiring and 8v ecu this shouldn't be an issue

What engine loom are you using?? i know on the old cav 8v loom they have an ignition connecter above the gearbox. I'd check your power feeds to the Ecu and the earth points too.

Also have you connected the lead that goes to the battery on the correct terminal (its a live but its black iirc, been a while since i've worked on a cav)
im using all stock cav stuff on the block and c20 crank sensor too i have reconnected everything back up that i can see - battery is correctly connected

ignition connector do you mean the multi plug thing ??? that connects to the other loom?

its quite baffling tbh
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i have discovered that the dizzy cap had been chewed away from the rotor for some reason that and that exsplained why it wasn't starting properly , i have managed to sort of got it too start but it does sound really really lumpy! and it doesn't stay on for long and it doesn't help! the battery is on its way out now as the little green thingy on it has gone black ugh!!!.... but it does sort of work... i'll be putting the serpin belt back on and parts of the exhaust and i'll try again and hopefully it will run a little longer then then 30 secounds
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
rrrrriiiiighhhhtttt , i have discovered more problems ugh.... firstly i think i have hit the adjuster thingy on the throttle body

is this in the correct postion - i dont think it is as i have to have the throttle quite far down to get it to start at all how far does the throttle need to be open to start the engine?



are there pipes in the correct place? i think i may have got them wrong as the radator isn't filling up properly i have labeled the jpg hopefuly you can see it ok i cant seem to find anything on autodata or the haynes ....




whats left of my first dizzy




cheers guys/girls hopefuly this makes sence!
 

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97% Mechanic
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I mean are you using the loom for the C20NE?? and this plug on top of the gearbox is just a single connector which joins the starting and charging loom to the engine loom

the throttle doen't need to be opened for it to start, the cable should be adjusted to just at the point before opening the throttle butterfly

The matrix pipes are definately wrong,

one that is labeled LHS from the matrix should go to the thermostat housing rear outlet,
the one labeled RHS from the matrix should be in the place of the LHS matrix pipe
Where the RHS matrix hose is should be the feed from the bottom of the header tank
 

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if you are goig from an 8v to 16v have you changed the fuel pump,the single point pumps run at a lower pressure,if you are using a x20xev was it from an immobilised version,ie 1995 model year as the ecu may not be recieving a immobiliser signal
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
hi thanks for the reply sorry i wasn't very clear my bad, what i have done is change the c20ne block for a x20xev block but kept the c20ne head and orginal loom. Why due too the x20 being higher compression and i wanted a little more power as the c20ne felt guttless to me.

thanks for the pipe locations i had a feeling it was that way but i just wasnt sure.

i have had it going its just i have to have my foot to the floor on the accelerator pedel and it will start but as soon as i take it off it doesn't idle very well it practically stops so i am thinking i hit the throttle adjuster doffamajiga or maybe its somthin else ill have to do some more tweeking when i change the hoses round and can run the engine for more then 20 secounds
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ermmm had a go and tryin to make it start again today , it didn't work at all when i was in the drivers seat i noticed i couldn't actually hear the fuel pump at all not even prime noise..... i have checked the wiring that seems fine, bridged the fuel pump and it works , checked the relay it clicks on. turned over the car while holding a multi meter on the pump multi plug and there is a voltage but its around 10volts at its highest which is very weak i would of thought i may bridge the pump so its on constantly and see if it fires up if it does there must be somthing wrong with the ecu or the wiring i can amgine what do you think?
 

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I doubt the ECU is at fault here, although are you still using the Motronic M1.5 from the C20NE? If so it only earths the actuating coil in the relay, if you have poor or no power to the pump I would be looking at changing that relay or the wiring, between the power rail and the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yep I'm using stock 1.5 ecu I have been thinking a great deal about what I have done or what I may have missed, the only different part I have used is the cam shaft which as far as I'm aware its from a 20seh , but I can't amgine that would course this miss fire and totally mess up the timing ? I'm gonna bite the bullet and buy some new head bolts and change the cam shaft out for the original c29ne cam and hopefully that may cure the problem but I doute it
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
well i have got it going at last its just idling really badly if it where a guess around 500rpm then it would go up too 1000rpm then back down i'll check the timing again hopefully i wont have to keep it like that the next job is to re do the wire for the fan and its done sorta lol
 
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