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Discussion Starter #21
OK try this, remove the caliper as if you were changing the pads, wind the piston back in slowly, check that the cable is routed correctly and the outer cable case is located in the in the guide on the caliper, after you have put the pads back in dont touch the caliper or the brake pedal, now do exactly the same to the other caliper, once you have put the pads back in and refitted the caliper get in your car and pump the brakes via the brake pedal no need to start the car, once you have pumped the brakes pedal until its hard, now pull the handbrake a couple of times this will now take any slack up on the handbrake.........if your handbrake is working properly

For future reference never pull the handbrake on until you have pumped the brake pedal to take up the slack in the caliper.
Hi
I don't understand why you are saying to remove the pads and calipers, there is nothing wrong with them they are working 100 % fine the problem is not to do with any of those but the cable for the handbrake.
I do not want to mess with the calipers as those pistons can be a nightmare to wind back in on the rear, they are all 7 months old basically brand new and fully operating.

I only want ot know how to sort out the handbrake , thanks
 

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Hi
I don't understand why you are saying to remove the pads discs and calipers, there is nothing wrong with them they are working 100 % fine the problem is not to do with any of those but the cable for the handbrake.
I do not want to mess with the calipers as those pistons can be a nightmare to wind back in on the rear, they are all 7 months old basically brand new and fully operating.

I only want ot know how to sort out the handbrake , thanks

I will be trying the adjustment method
OK as you have stated you never touched the handbrake cable apart from reattaching it, so I'm only stating what I would do, but then god forbid that a caliper cant fail because its only 7 month old, I'm not asking you to remove the disc I said remove the caliper as if you were changing the pads, which should only take you at most 20 or 30 minutes a side if you take your time.

So good luck and in the words of Duncan Bannatyne

I'M OUT
 

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I'm not familiar with these cars, but from what others have said, there is an automatic cable adjuster under the handbrake lever somewhere (if it's anything like the one on a Jeep Cherokee, good luck with it).
When you disconnected the cable, it seems this has adjusted the cable up to make it too tight, causing the brake to stay applied when you reconnect the cable.
You will have to get the centre console out and figure out how to release the automatic adjustment mechanism. If you can't understand how to do it, get someone who knows what they're doing to sort it out.
 
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Discussion Starter #26
OK as you have stated you never touched the handbrake cable apart from reattaching it, so I'm only stating what I would do, but then god forbid that a caliper cant fail because its only 7 month old, I'm not asking you to remove the disc I said remove the caliper as if you were changing the pads, which should only take you at most 20 or 30 minutes a side if you take your time.

So good luck and in the words of Duncan Bannatyne

I'M OUT
I tried what you said I took pads out rewound pistons and re attached, this has not solved thre problem.

Oh, and forgive me for asking questions on a car forum
 

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Discussion Starter #27
He has had a lot of advice from many people on here but unfortunately he is not taking it, im finished with this thread---Dave
What advice have I not taken ? I took pads out and rewound the pistons it has not solved the problem. Forgive me for asking for help and questions on a car forum
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I'm not familiar with these cars, but from what others have said, there is an automatic cable adjuster under the handbrake lever somewhere (if it's anything like the one on a Jeep Cherokee, good luck with it).
When you disconnected the cable, it seems this has adjusted the cable up to make it too tight, causing the brake to stay applied when you reconnect the cable.
You will have to get the centre console out and figure out how to release the automatic adjustment mechanism. If you can't understand how to do it, get someone who knows what they're doing to sort it out.
Hi
thank you, I will remove centre console. what you said about the cable adjusting itself makes sense. if it does not adjust does that mena new cables are required ?

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Posts #4 & #13 appear to be pointing in the right direction.
I would purchase and fit a new handbrake cable.
I have just done my vivaro the 3 parts of the handbrake cable because one side was binding on.
Hi
I will remove the centre console first and try adjusting it, if that doesnt work sill new cables be required and is it hard to replace the cables ?
thanks
 

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Hi
thank you, I will remove centre console. what you said about the cable adjusting itself makes sense. if it does not adjust does that mena new cables are required ?

thanks
As I said before, I'm not familiar with these cars, but this was suggested by someone who apparently is.
I would think there has to be a way of undoing the auto adjustment mechanism, but, without seeing it, I cannot help further.
If the handbrake cables are free, then there should be no need to replace them, but only the person working on the car can tell.
 
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Discussion Starter #31
As I said before, I'm not familiar with these cars, but this was suggested by someone who apparently is.
I would think there has to be a way of undoing the auto adjustment mechanism, but, without seeing it, I cannot help further.
If the handbrake cables are free, then there should be no need to replace them, but only the person working on the car can tell.
Thank you Alan
I don't understand why certain people have a problem with other's for asking question's on a forum.

Is it okay after I remove the console to take photo's and come back here for help on the next step on what to do ?
 

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People on here get annoyed when advice is given, but not followed (myself included sometimes).

By all means post some photos, someone may be able to help (I have said earlier, I'm not familiar with these cars, but will take a look anyway).
 

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Discussion Starter #33
People on here get annoyed when advice is given, but not followed (myself included sometimes).

By all means post some photos, someone may be able to help (I have said earlier, I'm not familiar with these cars, but will take a look anyway).
thank you Alan , I will upload some pics when I remove the centre console.

I took the guys' dvuce who told me to take the brakes apart i.e. take pads out and rewind the pistons. However it did not resolve the issue at all.
However it seems to have created a problem, on one side the disc looks scored ( but feels fine when running my finger across it, it feels smooth ) and on the same side the caliper is hot after a drive whereas the other caliper is staying cool on the side where the disc also looks fine
.
When I was putting the pads back in on the side in question they were a very tight fit even though I wound pistons back. Are the pads on this side now stuck on or something ?
 

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However it seems to have created a problem, on one side the disc looks scored ( but feels fine when running my finger across it, it feels smooth ) and on the same side the caliper is hot after a drive whereas the other caliper is staying cool on the side where the disc also looks fine
.When I was putting the pads back in on the side in question they were a very tight fit even though I wound pistons back. Are the pads on this side now stuck on or something ?
Pads should not be a tight fit, just a nice sliding fit. You often have to take a file to pads to get them a nice fit, but make sure they are not tight due to rust build up under any anti rattle shims.
If the disc feels smooth when running your finger over it, then it should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Pads should not be a tight fit, just a nice sliding fit. You often have to take a file to pads to get them a nice fit, but make sure they are not tight due to rust build up under any anti rattle shims.
If the disc feels smooth when running your finger over it, then it should be fine.
hi
That's why I didn't want to take them apart, I fitted them along with discs and calipers 7 months ago they have been great ever since inc passing the MOT, The issue on this thread is the handbrake not the actual stopping brakes which I told him yet he insisted I try this and so I did and it has not resolved the problem, but given me a new problem.

When I took the pads out 2 days ago I pulled the handbrake up ( didn't press foot brake ) but after pullnig pu handbrake the pads would not go back in, somehow it seems pulling up handbrake lever pushed out the piston ? I finally got the pads back in but they were very tight fit going back in.
Could that be the problem why the disc on that side looks scored then (althoguh it feels fine )? The caliper on that side was rather hot (not excessive) but on the other side the caliper was cool. could the pads be stuck on or something ??
should I take off the caliper and try and push the piston back in further ? also the piston on the caliper was flush with the boot when I took it off, it wasn't outside of the boot. I assume the piston was still out though as after turning it a little bit the pads went back in. I seen the piston turn but it didn't look to be going down as I was twisting it in but maybe it was ?

edit : Also when taking them out they fell out they were not tight at all nor where they when I installed them 7 months ago, could it be that I just did not wind the piston back enough and it needs winding back more ?
 

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When I took the pads out 2 days ago I pulled the handbrake up ( didn't press foot brake ) but after pullnig pu handbrake the pads would not go back in, somehow it seems pulling up handbrake lever pushed out the piston ?
So how did you expect the handbrake to work?
When you pull the handbrake up, it moves the piston out mechanically, and the adjuster in the caliper will hold the piston further out than it was.
You need to wind the piston back in, pressing it in as you turn it. This is what the proper tool is needed for. When it's all reassembled, then pump the pedal to adjust the brake caliper back to where it should be.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
So how did you expect the handbrake to work?
When you pull the handbrake up, it moves the piston out mechanically, and the adjuster in the caliper will hold the piston further out than it was.
You need to wind the piston back in, pressing it in as you turn it. This is what the proper tool is needed for. When it's all reassembled, then pump the pedal to adjust the brake caliper back to where it should be.
Hi
I replaced the rear calipers and discs and pads 7 months ago, everything worked fine including the handbrake, passed the MOT no issues at all.
I only had this handbrake problem months later whene I thought I'd try getting the cable ot hold on less clicks.

It definately seems as thoguh the brake pads on that side are not dis engaging, As the caliper on that side feels hotter than it does on the other side, plus the disc looks (but not feels ) visibly scored. ASlso it was very tight putting caliper on over the pads on that side.
Is it possible if I take pads out again and try winding in the piston further it will solve this problem ?
I already have the proper tool, the piston rewinder

thanks
 

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I posted the sections from Haynes in this thread.
This is quite a common issue on the Vectra. If you replace the cable with a new one and follow the guide to the letter you should get the desired result.
If as you say the caliper works fine then the issue is with the cable or its mechanism.
I wouldn't be going for modifications or wasting time messing with an old cable, eliminate faults one by one by replacing with new parts.
 

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Hi
I don't understand why you are saying to remove the pads discs and calipers, there is nothing wrong with them they are working 100 % fine the problem is not to do with any of those but the cable for the handbrake.
I do not want to mess with the calipers as those pistons can be a nightmare to wind back in on the rear, they are all 7 months old basically brand new and fully operating.

I only want ot know how to sort out the handbrake , thanks

I will be trying the adjustment method
By any chance when you removed the cable to ‘look’ at adjusting things, did you depress the brake pedal? If so, you may have actually adjusted the rear callipers to tight whilst the handbrake was disconnected meaning there’s no backing off of the handbrake now the cable is reconnected.

what I would do if this is the case or even a potential is strip the side you’re having problems with, leaving the handbrake cable connected,remove the pads, wind the piston back, refit again. Once all back together, to set the handbrake position, start the vehicle, foot on the brake, hold it there whilst cranking the handbrake a few times. This will allow the auto adjuster to set its position. Try pumping the brakes a few times in between runs of cranking the handbrake. This should sort your issue.

good luck! Please post back any findings
 

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By any chance when you removed the cable to ‘look’ at adjusting things, did you depress the brake pedal? If so, you may have actually adjusted the rear callipers to tight whilst the handbrake was disconnected meaning there’s no backing off of the handbrake now the cable is reconnected.

what I would do if this is the case or even a potential is strip the side you’re having problems with, leaving the handbrake cable connected,remove the pads, wind the piston back, refit again. Once all back together, to set the handbrake position, start the vehicle, foot on the brake, hold it there whilst cranking the handbrake a few times. This will allow the auto adjuster to set its position. Try pumping the brakes a few times in between runs of cranking the handbrake. This should sort your issue.

good luck! Please post back any findings
It's a six month old thread, so I hope he's not still driving round with defective brakes!
 
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