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Discussion Starter #1
I decided to treat my old (05) Vectra estate to a new water pump, cam belt, Aux belt, oil change, and spark plugs. (plus a few filters and coolant) I got my 14 year old to help as he is cheap, and could learn a thing or two. All went well except sprocket on cam 1 span when adjusting the belt tension. I have checked the compression and all above 150psi, so I got away with it I think.
It started ok, bit of smoke from the exhaust drying off. Then the car is lumpy at tickover, engine warning light comes on. Took it for a bit of a drive to test it for power and it seems ok.
This AM decided to look again. its got error codes p0300, p0301, p0303, p0305, basically misfire on the first bank.
If I start from cold-ish it starts fine and idles well, then as it warms up, starts to get lumpy, engine light comes on then after 5 secs or so settles down, light goes out. 1 min later starts over.
If I leave it it gets worse and worse, but If I clear the error code runs sweet as a nut, for a short while.

I have taken the spark plugs out again, I have pulled and reconnected all the plugs that were disconnected.
I do have a spanner symbol on the display that I can't clear.

Any thoughts?
Yours Simon M.

(PS I have captured a load of data, if its of any use?)
 

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BigYin247
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Was the car running okay before you done the timing belt change?

Also have you made 100000% sure that you have connected the camshaft sensor correctly?

Your cars symptoms would suggest that your timing is still out and is giving phantom error codes sent from the camshaft position sensor, if these codes was not present before the belt change then don't look into them now, stick with with the belt, common when the timing is out, even one notch will cause all sorts of problems, power may well still be there but it is not running as it should be and seeing as the cam wheel has slipped you would have had to set the timing from scratch all over again, this is why we use cam position locking tools.

I would pull the belt back off and set the timing again.

Some important notes here:

-Make absolutely sure that the bottom crankcase wheel arrow is lined up exactly.

Do not try and judge the markings on the cam wheels by looking at them from above the engine bay or looking at them with your head tilted, you need to be crouched down at the drivers side facing them (assuming your belt is at that side obv)

-Use a metal ruler as a guide to make sure the cams are lined up and hold them in position with a ratchet while a friend puts the belt on don't slacken off the ratchet until the tension has been set.

And lastly and most importantly do not attempt to start the car until you have freely moved the cams by hand first (with the plugs out) using a ratchet and extension bar, pull towards you from the wheel closest to you slowly to verify everything moves freely, this eliminates the fear of starting the engine and bending your valves off the pistons or even worse holes in the pistons.

You may also need to retard the timing depending on the miles the engine has done, retarding the timing means to advance it one tooth ever so slightly to see if things improve, as engines get older parts wear.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That be the side of the engine off again! I hate the new belts don't wave any marks on them any more!
I'll update as I have a look.
 

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BigYin247
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The worst part is you cannot even use a timing gun on these twin cam engines either.

Let us know how you get on, any help just ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
1 tooth retarded on cam 1
Thanks for your helpful advice Steve.
5 hours work from wheels up to wheels down, including lunch, and making two jigs.
Due to pipe work, cam 1 marks are so hard to line up, so I made a simple jig to extend the marks out to the cam sprocket, and found out that I was 1 tooth out. Jig 2 was made to lock cam 2 and belt whilst I fought with cam 1. Lots of checking the checks and turning by hand, then torqued every thing up, and started. Let it idle for 10 mins (low on petrol) without any problems. Hope it stays that way!

Yours Simon M.
 

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the proper timing tool for the v6 has cam wedges to hold the sprockets & also a setting tool to sit over the cam sprockets which helps make sure the timing is 100% correct .
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yup, got the laser one, and used it, but when you need to move one cam on its own you need to improvise
The problem started when I was tensioning the belt, and slipped out, knocking the red cam lock off as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks.
What I forgot to mention is I broke my thumb then it all slipped out of place. which didn't help the mood.
 

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BigYin247
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As long as your timing is now correct you should not have any more problems.

If your engine management light is still on then don't worry as this should vanish after you have driven around 25-30 miles and the ECU rescans for faults.

Glad I could be of help, all the best and happy driving :)
 
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