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Hi,

Was just wondering if anyone could shed some light on upgrading a head unit.

I’ve got a combo 69 plate, with the small screened head unit was just wondering if I could change this for the full touch screen that is in the higher models. I’m pretty certain that physical fitment is exactly the same just wanted to know if it would be plug and play? The existing head unit has DAB so that should transfer over, the usb is actually on a cable in both so that’s the same.

Thanks in advance
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Hi..

I came across your post while looking for more information on the same hardware I’ve got in my Combo. You posted this 8 months ago and got no replies so I’m wondering if you’ve had much if any success with this?
As I understand it, you were trying to change out just the screen with touch functions but not making mentio if you were expecting to get the upgrade features as well, like Android Auto & Apple Car Play, or rear camera for parking assistance, etc?
I was thinking that I’m sure you won’t get the features from the screen because the actual functions or features of the head unit aren’t located within the touch pad or screen as you’ve shown in your pics. Here’s why..

I am currently trying to get access to the back of my head unit to splice into the speaker wires for an installation of a High to Low Level Frequency Adapter or also known as an LOC Converter/Adapter which is used to convert speaker wire outputs into RCA plugs which can then be plugged into an amp for sound upgrades. Sorry for schooling you if in case you already know this stuff (probably way better than I do. And actually if you do know more thanI do, please do fill me in with the corrections wherever I talk nonsense going forward. Thanks!)
I’ve learned that the system is made up of 3 main components, and they are as you’ve shown in your pictures as the touch pad for controlling and navigating the features of the unit, and it has a small plug & USB port on a separate lead. You might find that the screen is a separate unit which has it’s own plug. So why I’m saying your idea might not work is because when I disconnected these 2 components & I turned on the key ignition by chance, the radio turned on & sound was playing out of the speakers without the use of the screen & control pad. So that told me that the actual head unit with the hardware & software is in a third component somewhere at the other end of the cables of the control unit, screen & USB port.
Let me tell you, looking for this head unit took me a lot of nervous hours to locate. My entire dash is currently stripped out and that’s why I said it was a nervous experience. This van should not be over engineered the way it is. I removed one panel to reveal another & another, & screws & clips for a lifetime.

So the head unit is located right behind the screen, behind the air vents for the air conditioning in the same location. I dismantled the whole dash because I went looking for the unit not knowing where it’s located and I used the known harnesses as my guide. Plus stripping the whole dash seems inevitable since everything is connected to each other, by design with intention for the manufacturer to stop you no doubt.
The head unit is a Clarion product & very securely fixed with almost no room for accessing the rear harness plugged into it. There’s a warning on the unit which tells me that they really don’t want you to tamper with it or even sell it without their permission. There some crap about Microsoft owning some part of the unit -software I think. So I think I paid to loan it, not buy it. LOL I actually got it with a vehicle finance option. Told my buddy over the phone that if the bank only knew what I’m doing with their car... hahaha!
Anyway the best way to access the wiring seems to be from the passenger side top glove compartment which didn’t set off the airbag when I removed it, so yeah I’m relieved.
So why not just splice directly into the speaker at the door mounted location you ask? I need one 4 Ohm speaker from each of the left & right channels which are in this case the only 2 channels as you know, there are no rear chanels which are usually used for what I’m trying to achieve. My van has a midrange speaker & tweeter connected in a strange way where the tweeter has a resister built on it & the 2 cables that plug into it both light up my test light which I was using to test the polarity of the unmarked speakers. So that was strange to me but I still have the midrange speaker available I thought, so when I stripped away the whole door panel to access it, I found that the terminals are also not marked for polarity, plus the tweeter wires piggy back off the same terminals which is causing havoc with my digital tester unit when I tested for resistance which I am not seeing the same result on different situations tested with ignition control. I already see this might cause havoc with my LOC adapter which I need to feed a 4 Ohm midrange speaker into. This unit converts the mid level signal into a low frequency to then be fit into a low pass mono block ampl;icier. This is complicated further because the I intended to switch the resistance on my amp & subwoofer to 2 Ohms for higher rms performance. At 4 ohms I would rather have bought a cheaper combination of these 2 items that don’t feature the switchable resistance functions. The switch function I think will find problems with the existing speaker wires from the setup found at the door. I was lucky to reach tech support fro the store I bought my sound components from & he told me that the best way is to splice into the back of the head unit. He didn’t know what task I was going to undertake. In hindsight I think i could actually use the cable for the speakers just before it enters the door where everything becomes complicated, no difference from the footwell kick panel to the rear of the head unit. But I’m already this far into the dismantling of the dashboard that I think I’d still like to have a look at what the harness & plug setup looks like & if in fact the speaker wire is the same as what I will use at the foot well area. I’m thinking that given the warnings on the unit & it being so well hidden away intentionally, maybe it’s better not to make modifications in such an obvious pl;ace that might void my warranty if someone had to see it.

I know, I talk.... LOL I made up for 8 months silence on this forum post of yours. Hope to hear back from you soon

C

Hi,

Was just wondering if anyone could shed some light on upgrading a head unit.

I’ve got a combo 69 plate, with the small screened head unit was just wondering if I could change this for the full touch screen that is in the higher models. I’m pretty certain that physical fitment is exactly the same just wanted to know if it would be plug and play? The existing head unit has DAB so that should transfer over, the usb is actually on a cable in both so that’s the same.

Thanks in advance View attachment 91695 View attachment 91696 View attachment 91697 View attachment 91698 View attachment 91699 View attachment 91700
 

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Registered
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Hi,

Was just wondering if anyone could shed some light on upgrading a head unit.

I’ve got a combo 69 plate, with the small screened head unit was just wondering if I could change this for the full touch screen that is in the higher models. I’m pretty certain that physical fitment is exactly the same just wanted to know if it would be plug and play? The existing head unit has DAB so that should transfer over, the usb is actually on a cable in both so that’s the same.

Thanks in advance View attachment 91695 View attachment 91696 View attachment 91697 View attachment 91698 View attachment 91699 View attachment 91700
How did you get on with this pal, I’m litrally looking to do exactly the same. I’ve tryed installing the OEM reverse camera and screen but that hasn’t worked.. I think every electrical component on it has its own little ECU to control it so computer says no. But would love the OEM screen, I have found a lot of Chinese aftermarket ones for the berlingo/ partner as they are the same GM baseline van. I think there is a unit to go with the screen aswell the screen its self isn’t like a tablet on its own, it does have a box to connect with it.
 
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