Vauxhall Owners Network Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone.

I have a 2010 Zafira B. I stupidly left the interior courtesy light on and locked the car. The car had a dead battery. I proceeded to charge the battery.

This is my daily driver and I'm taking a taxi to work and back at the moment.

With the battery charged- to around 70% or 80% I started the car.

The car had a vehicle with the spanner indicating a fault and the trip computer ( the basic one paired with the CD30 unit) showed a message that read "!!! Range !!!". I also have 3/4 of a tank of diesel left and it showed only 22 miles of range.

Im assuming that the car is running extremely rich at the moment due to some defaulted safety limp mode fuel map.

I did the brake and accelerator test and it showed the following codes and I have tried to understand them to the best of my ability

ECN 0683 02- Glow plug issues
ECN 1613 00- Immobiliser issue
ECN 1614 50- Key Issue ( I assume)
ECN 1616 00- CIM issue
ECN 0409 52- EGR feedback incorrect signal
ECN 2103 00- Throttle motor high current
ECN 2108 72- ABS or Throttle control module
ECN 2139 70- CIM not communicating (or something related to the CIM)
ECN 0000 00- and the no fault found code.

The immobilizer codes, I think, can be cleared and they probably won't come back.
I'm concerned about the ECN 0683 02, ECN 0409 52, ECN 2108 72 and ECN 2103 00

Has anyone have experience with these codes and any potential solutions?
Are they easy fixes or are they pains to fix.
I have a 60 plate (2011) Zafira B 1.7 CDTi EcoFlex.

Please let me know if you can..

Kind regards,
Naliin
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
810 Posts
Depends if those are old codes mate, do you have opcom to reset the dtcs amd see what comes back, flat battery on these Vauxhalls will cause all sorts of power issues for the various modules so if we're you get the battery checked out and see if it's still healthy if it was taken down to hill as in flat as a pancake then it might be fooked and not providing enough power when a load is put on it, these Vauxhalls need a good working battery or the modules won't get sufficient power during cranking and throw and error code. I can always tell when my battery if getting tired as I see random low voltage codes in the bcm, new battery and there gone.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,624 Posts
Ignore the trip computer, if the battery has been flat the car will need to be driven a few miles to reset it.
Some of those codes may be historic, as said above. If it's running all right, take it for a drive to test it out, before you panic. If the battery has charged properly, any low voltage codes should disappear soon.
 
  • Like
Reactions: dave1419 and n4l11n

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Depends if those are old codes mate, do you have opcom to reset the dtcs amd see what comes back, flat battery on these Vauxhalls will cause all sorts of power issues for the various modules so if we're you get the battery checked out and see if it's still healthy if it was taken down to hill as in flat as a pancake then it might be fooked and not providing enough power when a load is put on it, these Vauxhalls need a good working battery or the modules won't get sufficient power during cranking and throw and error code. I can always tell when my battery if getting tired as I see random low voltage codes in the bcm, new battery and there gone.
I'm looking at getting opcom to reset the codes. It's currently not being driven.
Today I took it out and the Speedo was not working.
The battery was DRAINED to the death of it. I charged it overnight by taking out the battery.
It cranked and started but now the headlights come on without even turning them on and the car doesn't unlock wirelessly. I have to use the key to unlock it. Then after attempting to start it, it doesn't start. The in car lighting and everything works but it doesn't start.

It starts up when it wants to 🤣
I will try and clear the codes then see if it works.
If that doesn't solve it I will try and check the battery and/ or change it.
I've heard about water in the fuse boxes and the symptoms of egr abs and the glow plug circuits being broken and it throwing codes.

Is it common for water to get into it?
How hard would it be to replace it if it were bad?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
810 Posts
Body control module controls the lights, central locking etc basicly the body electrics if it doesn't get enough power you will have all sorts of issues, once you get opcom you will see what voltage it's reading, I find it odd that it worked ok before the battery went dead, could be a coincidence but doubt it, in my experience a flat battery down to 0v is had it, yes it may appear to show 12 volts once charged but it's what it drops to when in use, change the battery, give the connections to it a good clean first.
The bcm is usually in the corner under the windscreen next the battery, the seal goes on them letting water in, tell tell sign is a wet passenger foot well.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,624 Posts
If it was my car, I would be checking the UEC (big fuse box under the bonnet) for water ingress. Damp in there can cause all sorts of problems.
This old thread covers doing the job, but some of the pictures may not work:
Its important to take the board out and clean the wiring connections underneath. Use proper contact cleaner, not WD40!
It has worked on two of our cars that had odd problems (oh, the joys of can-bus systems)!
 
  • Like
Reactions: n4l11n

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Body control module controls the lights, central locking etc basicly the body electrics if it doesn't get enough power you will have all sorts of issues, once you get opcom you will see what voltage it's reading, I find it odd that it worked ok before the battery went dead, could be a coincidence but doubt it, in my experience a flat battery down to 0v is had it, yes it may appear to show 12 volts once charged but it's what it drops to when in use, change the battery, give the connections to it a good clean first.
The bcm is usually in the corner under the windscreen next the battery, the seal goes on them letting water in, tell tell sign is a wet passenger foot well.
I think it might be the BCM as well as I took out the fuse box. I found moisture in it. I used a hair dryer and got most of the water out. I cleaned the pins plugging to it and found green residue. I used contact cleaner.
I put it back in and the car didnt start.
The electrics inside were on but the CD30 unit and the gauges did not light up.
The car started after many attempts of locking and unlocking.
When it did start up, the headlights went off without turning the dial. The hazard lights also flashed randomly.
i shut the car off and the lights all went berserk-flashing and turning on and off.

The car would not lock from the inside or on the key.
Then i checked the voltage with the car on.
I turned it on and the airbag light came on now. It then disappeared and appears intermediately.

NOW THE CAR WONT LOCK DUE TO THE OPEN DOORS AND THE INTERIOR LIGHTS ARE ON AS THE CAR THINKS THE DOORS ARE OPEN.
 

·
Worn Out Member
Joined
·
6,558 Posts
The Zafira B doesn't have a BCM,most body items are controlled from the UEC and REC (if fitted)
UEC's can go faulty,it's not always just down to water ingress/corrosion
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,624 Posts
If, as you say, you only got most of the water out, you will still have problems.
The UEC needs removing and drying out properly.
Use a hairdryer, then put it in the airing cupboard overnight, or leave it on a radiator that's on all day.
As Valer says, they can go faulty, but, if there was water in there, it's worth another try at drying it out.
If you get another UEC, it has to be programmed in, and, if it's secondhand, it needs to have been "divorced" from the original car (or come with the original cars security code).
 
  • Like
Reactions: Valer

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
If, as you say, you only got most of the water out, you will still have problems.
The UEC needs removing and drying out properly.
Use a hairdryer, then put it in the airing cupboard overnight, or leave it on a radiator that's on all day.
As Valer says, they can go faulty, but, if there was water in there, it's worth another try at drying it out.
If you get another UEC, it has to be programmed in, and, if it's secondhand, it needs to have been "divorced" from the original car (or come with the original cars security code).
How would i get it programmed if i was to buy a new UEC? and how would i do it for a secondhand one.

Are they the same process?

Ive taken it out and let it to dry.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top