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Discussion Starter #1
Today I took the plunge to check my Cambelt no missing teeth belt looks good and the tensioner/pulleys still look pretty new my only worry is the cambelt was changed at a bosch garage but having looked at the belt the timing marks didnt seem to line up. The car isn't running rough and there is no signs of damage to the belt, so am concerned bosch have not lined the cams up right do these move with time. (What should I do is this something to be worried about).

Cambelt was changed 33k ago along with pulleys/tensioner.

Next thing I want ask about is having had a power steering leak and rocker cover leak there is a nice coat of thick crud down the right hand side of the engine on my AC compressor and Power steering pump would it be safe for me to take a pressure washer to this or not.

Any Help on this one would be most appreciated.
 
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Ok, tonights answers are a bit short because I am knackered after todays marathon cambelt jobs.

33k on cambelt? Change it and the tensioner, using a locking kit. Receommend you do water pump at the same time, 5 minutes extra and very easy add on.

Oil on LEFT side of engine (passenger side). Yes, you can use a poressure wahsre, but you must be careful not to soak all the electrics, especiallyv the DIS pack. You will regret it if you do. Better to use GUNK or JIZER and then just an ordinard low pressure garden hose to rinse off carefully.

Hope this helps.:Cool2:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
RB thanks for the response I was looking to get this done either this month or next but now asap. I was kinda hoping it was just the timing out and not the cambelt kit thats on it at fault. Whats worrying me now is how long has it been like it who knows.

The actual marks on the case dont match up with the cams at front of engine thats the worrying part but the tensioner does not seem to have moved still full kit replacement as a safety precaution is in order now I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just wondering if the timing was set wrong when they did the belt or does it move with time only like I say the tensioner hasn't moved which is the part I cant understand. Its not lumpy but abit loud at times.
 
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I would say the timing is fine, if you look at the marks on the cover, it will look out.

If the timing was out, it would run like a dog!

I would still say get it changed though. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cheers LB66 for the response

Shall get it changed ASAP, been on the phone to autovaux about the clutch which is not too bad at the moment, cambelt I think is paramount now so shall get the bits as soon as funds are there shall take it easy this week now to be on the safe side.

Roy
 
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More awake now. Roy, what makes you think the marks are out? As Dave says it would run like a pig if they were (and he should know:lmao: ). Unless you fitted a locking kit you will not be able to see how close the timing marks actually are. You cannot go by the cut outs on the backplate, they are purely there as a visible aid to fitting a new belt so you can line up the stripes on the belt a little easier.

You have got some mileage in that belt yet, 40k or 4 years, but at 33k I would suggest doing it within the next 2k really.

Do that water pump at the same time. It is cheap, easy and you will regret not doing it if you don't - sod's law.
 

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How far out do you think they are? as if it is more than a tooth out the engine will sound like a diesel. Its quite the norm to find the 1-3-5 bank slightly out usually you can't get the cam lock in on this bank this is down to the tensioner if it hasn't been set correctly.
Did you used the torsion damper (large crank pulley)timing mark to get the engine to tdc? If so these are rubber mounted and have known them move, I did someones belt on here this year and the mark was around 30 degs out.
The crank lock in the kit locates on the crank pulley (the one underneath the torsion damper) so gives a true TDC (as long as the lock is in good condition that is)
nixoro said:
Today I took the plunge to check my Cambelt no missing teeth belt looks good and the tensioner/pulleys still look pretty new my only worry is the cambelt was changed at a bosch garage but having looked at the belt the timing marks didnt seem to line up. The car isn't running rough and there is no signs of damage to the belt, so am concerned bosch have not lined the cams up right do these move with time. (What should I do is this something to be worried about).

Cambelt was changed 33k ago along with pulleys/tensioner.

Next thing I want ask about is having had a power steering leak and rocker cover leak there is a nice coat of thick crud down the right hand side of the engine on my AC compressor and Power steering pump would it be safe for me to take a pressure washer to this or not.

Any Help on this one would be most appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
RonaldMcBurger Thanks for the response the belt look a few teeth out in relation to cover markers but it doesn't sound like a diesel and its not running lumpy. Looking to drive very very carefully this week and hopefully come the following week I will be getting the full kit inc waterpump for that weekend. I am assuming the cams dont finish up in the same place each time engine is turned over which is probably where I am going wrong.

Geffd Thanks for the response, I have not touched my car with a locking kit as yet as the cambelt was done previous at a bosch garage. The most I did was remove the cover to check things over.

Geffd that bit of knowledge went over my head is that all in relation to V6 models, if thats the case as I have a measly 2.0 jobby unfortunately.

Apologies if this make me sound very silly.

Roy
 

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Sorry mate bit hungover didn't realise it was a 2.0L 16 valve- anyway - theres no cranklock for that engine - only a cam lock required. I have one if you want to borrow it I can post it to you.

nixoro said:
RonaldMcBurger Thanks for the response the belt look a few teeth out in relation to cover markers but it doesn't sound like a diesel and its not running lumpy. Looking to drive very very carefully this week and hopefully come the following week I will be getting the full kit inc waterpump for that weekend. I am assuming the cams dont finish up in the same place each time engine is turned over which is probably where I am going wrong.

Geffd Thanks for the response, I have not touched my car with a locking kit as yet as the cambelt was done previous at a bosch garage. The most I did was remove the cover to check things over.

Geffd that bit of knowledge went over my head is that all in relation to V6 models, if thats the case as I have a measly 2.0 jobby unfortunately.

Apologies if this make me sound very silly.

Roy
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If the Cambelt has been timed up correctly the cam marker should match up with the casing or do they not finish up in the same place each time the engine is turned over. If this is the case as already mentioned this may be where I am going wrong, shall double check belt alignment when I have abit of daylight and when not at work.
(If only I had a camera it would make life so much easier)

Geffd thankyou for the kind offer of the locking tool shall Pm you nearer the time if I cant get my hands on one in time, hope this is ok.

Again apologies if this sounds silly to ask.
 

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2.0 timing belt

The marks only line up when No. 1 cylinder is at top dead centre on the compression stroke, but beware the mark on the aux drivebelt pulley - there's nothing to stop that pulley going back on in the wrong place, better to remove the drivebelt and pulley, then check the cutout on the crankshaft timing belt pulley. That should align with the mark on lower cover (use a mirror), whilst the marks on the cams should line up with the marks on the upper cover backplate. If the cam sprocket marks don't line up when the crankshaft one does, turn the engine over 360 degrees and check again.

When it comes to changing the belt, it's not absolutely essential to use the camshaft locking tool, just as long as everything is lined up there'll be no problem, but if you have the tool it is one less thing to worry about. I've got one too if you want a loan. Changing the timing belt on the 2 litre really is a doddle.
 

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If you look at the crank sprocket (which the cambelt runs on) there is a notch on it which shoudl align with the one on the belt guard which sits under the sprocket. Its not easy to spot and much easier to feel.
This is the best reference for crank TDC.

As said, the cam timing amrks are easy to see.

Make sure you keep the right hand side belt run slack free when fitting.

2.0 cambelt change is pretty easy but, do give the belt cover bolts a good squirt with WD40 before starting as they have a habit of sticking.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ianrobbo and Marks DTM Calib thankyou for your responses.

Now you are going to think I am thick for asking this but have looked at the cams there are two marks on each which ones need to be aligned with the case cutout, I have looked at the Haynes manual but the image in there doesnt show which marker needs to be aligned with the cutouts on the cover (could just be me being thick here). You have a small pointer and a big one if that makes sense. Shall take another look during lunch.

*edit* Just looked in the Haynes shows a small image with both the Crank positioning and the Cams how silly do I feel now:shame:

Lining the Crank TDC I will most likely take that bottom pulley off to align.

Looking to get this right as a mate has just had a cambelt done and they bent 4 valves in his engine not what I am after.

All help is most appreciated.
 

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If you take No 1 (cam belt end) spark plug out turn the crankshaft clockwise until the camshaft markings are nearly in line with the camcover - and put a long screwdriver in the sparkplug bore - gently turn the crankshaft untill the screwdriver is at its highest point - this will give you true TDC - then check the cam gear marks - this saves you taking the crank pulley off ( which can sieze on and need a puller to get off)

If its at it highest point and the cam gear markings are out - refit the belt




nixoro said:
Ianrobbo and Marks DTM Calib thankyou for your responses.

Now you are going to think I am thick for asking this but have looked at the cams there are two marks on each which ones need to be aligned with the case cutout, I have looked at the Haynes manual but the image in there doesnt show which marker needs to be aligned with the cutouts on the cover (could just be me being thick here). You have a small pointer and a big one if that makes sense. Shall take another look during lunch.

*edit* Just looked in the Haynes shows a small image with both the Crank positioning and the Cams how silly do I feel now:shame:

Lining the Crank TDC I will most likely take that bottom pulley off to align.

Looking to get this right as a mate has just had a cambelt done and they bent 4 valves in his engine not what I am after.

All help is most appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Geffd said:
If you take No 1 (cam belt end) spark plug out turn the crankshaft clockwise until the camshaft markings are nearly in line with the camcover - and put a long screwdriver in the sparkplug bore - gently turn the crankshaft untill the screwdriver is at its highest point - this will give you true TDC - then check the cam gear marks - this saves you taking the crank pulley off ( which can sieze on and need a puller to get off)

If its at it highest point and the cam gear markings are out - refit the belt
Thankyou for your response Geffd

I just want to get it done now thankyou for the excellent advice shall give it a try just a case of getting the parts now. paydays on its way cant wait he says with enthusiasm. My main concern is getting it wrong a f**king things up.

Roy
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Marks DTM Calib said:
You need to take the cam pulley off to fit the new belt anyway.....
Cheers for the response to be honest at the moment I am thinking take the pulley off and I know that I said in the post to Geffd I would give his suggestion ago but I think I will still remove the pulley because my understanding is its easier to align the crank with it off, I can still do the screwdriver test with the pulley off anyway I should have thought.
 
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