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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2010 Vauxhall Insignia

Car is turning over but won’t start? When the key is turned the car turns over and goes through the motions but is missing that final kick to actually start up and stay running.

Car is currently with a Vauxhall Dealership that cannot give me a definite answer as to why my car is not starting. I have asked repeatedly for my key to be checked and they have told me there is no point even testing the key as the car would do nothing if the key was the issue? i.e. it can’t be the key because the car turns over. They instead want to try replacing parts I had fitted with their own genuine Vauxhall parts (I have to pay for each part and the labour involved even though they cannot guarantee any will fix car) it is also worth noting that the crank and cam shaft sensors that were put into my car when my car originally wouldn’t start before it was taken to the dealership were tested in another Insignia when my car still wouldn’t start and the other car had no difficulty starting.

Could the key be the issue? As a completely clueless female when it comes to cars I obviously haven’t a clue how the mechanics of a car work but surely if the parts work in one vehicle they should work in another and I can eliminate the chances of it being the sensors?

Any help is much appreciated as I have now been without a car for a month and dealership costs are beginning to rise rapidly despite the fact I am no further on than I was before I even went to them!
 

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EDIT: Just realized you opened another thread on this Jan 17th.
Better if you continue that thread so we don't cover old ground over and over....



The dealer must have diagnostics that will tell them why the car isn't firing. The diagnostics will also report if the immobilizer isn't being released.
Get back to them and ask for the diagnostics report - not their interpretation, but the actual diagnostic codes - usually a letter and 4-6 digits. Tell them you have access to an expert discussion forum who will review their activities.

They are either plain wrong (or giving you a false description) about the key/immobilizer function. The key will crank the engine even if the immobilizer chip isn't working.

A key with remote unlocking has three parts, (a) the blade that goes in and unlocks the barrel so you can turn the key, (b) a radio transmitter for remote door lock/unlock (nothing to do with the ignition/starting) and a passive 'Radio Frequency Identify Device' (immobilizer) chip---- the RFID is just like the tiny tags shops use to catch thieves taking unpaid items out through security gates. A little detector around the lock barrel senses when the immobilizer chip is right be the lock barrel e.g. a valid key is in the lock.

The fact that the lock unlocks, the doors unlock, in no way confirms that the RFID immobilizer chip is working.

There have been reported instances of the RFID chip becoming simply dislodged and loose in the key fob and not working as the activation range is only 1-2 cm.

Do you have a second/spare key?
 

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I think your hands are tied unless you get the car recovered to another garage for a second opinion...i would like to think a dealer is the best place for it and they wouldn't intentionaly rip you off by putting parts on you don't need.
 

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Caveat, Not all Dealers are equal.... In theory they should use their 'inside' knowledge for a quick and certain fix, others reverse the coin and go for max profit. Do good research - one dealer at least get (dis) honorable mention often here.
I've never used a dealer in my life, just independants, but then only when I know the problem and don't have time or equipment for DIY.

EDIT:
Post your approximate location (town/county), hopefully someone might have a local recommendation for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update

Ended up having no choice but to remove the car via recovery vehicle from the dealership as they admitted they didn’t know what was wrong and could only guess by elimination and changing parts. Parts I would have to pay for whether they worked or not. Car was also returned to me missing parts, but that’s a whole different story.

Independent garage has suggested at no cost as they were unable to fix it that it may be ECU issues but unfortunately they are unable to fix that and have recommended various other people that can.

Thoughts on it being the ECU?
 

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Any competent garage should have a diagnostic reader - [but it may not be 100% Vauxhall compatible] - as you have a hard fault there will be a diagnostic code stored.

If the diagnostic isn't even talking to the car at all then you probably do have a module (ECU) fault.

Frankly I would be opening the key fob and checking the RFID chip hasn't become dislodged - it is fitted right close to the key blade.
Then I'd pull the binnacle from round the lock barrel and check the coil of wire round the barrel hasn't become loose/dislodged. The coil and RFID chip need to be no more than about 1cm apart for activation.

Try other garages too - as I said before, post your rough location (town/county) someone might be nearby who could recommend a garage or maybe even pop by and have a look with a good (OpCom) diagnostic.

Don't through parts at it - generally a waste of time and money.
 
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