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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

This forum has really helped me out recently with some repairs I've had to do with our Astra 1.8 Design Auto, so thanks to all of those who have the knowledge and are prepared to share, it's really appreciated by us less mechanically minded people.

Somthing that I've not been able to sort, so far, with the assistance of the group that I was hoping you could help me out with is........

A few weeks ago the warning light (car with spanner) came on so I took it to the stealership who told me it needed a new ECU unit and kindly emptied my pockets of £40:cry:. The quote for £1800 + labor seemed to be a little too expensive for a 54 reg so I sought a second opinon. The second garage said fault code showed a Throttle Position Sensor 1 & 2 fault and advised I replace the cheapest part first - the accelerator pedal. Still £160 + labor so looking at the forums, I saw it might just be that the throttle body needed cleaning (which I did - with no change). So I called the stealership back and asked if changing this part required any sort of reprogramming on the promise of me purchasing the part. They advised it was just plug and play so I got one off ebay for £20 :lmao:.

Problem is, I changed the pedal in about 10mins but the EML is now on and the car won't tick over at all. I've brought the OP-COM software off ebay, on the recommendation this forum's members, and connected it to the car. I can't see any fault codes and I don't have the knowledge (or confidence) to reset the ECU so I tried disconnecting the battery for an hour but the problem is still there.

I sure am hoping it's just something simple as I really can't afford a new ECU or expensive repair so any advice from you guys would be greatfully received.

Thanks,

Xavier King
 

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DO NOT RESET THE ECU, this will take it back to factory setting and you may have problems setting it back up with all the many modules on the mk5's, if you have a look on measuring blocks and look for throttle position sensor 1 and 2, if you add them both together you should have 5v approx, no matter what postion the throttle is in, if you have less than 5v then chances are the 5v feed from the ECU is knackered or theres a broken wire,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I sure am glad I didn't have the guts to do the reset then.
:lmao:

Reading other posts about similar issues I had seen that but thought I'd take the quickest route and replace the peddle... d'oh, you live an learn. I'd love to test that but the car won't even tick over now so I can't get to test that can I? Any suggestions on my current issue will be appreciated.
 

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have you tried putting the original pedal back on it, id be surprised if there was no codes stored, are there any lights coming on, do you have the original codes from VX, am i missing something? why did the garage suggest changing the pedal assembly when they stated the codes were for the throttle poisition sensor, thats part of the throttle body if im not mistaken,

regarding looking at throttle postion sensor 1 +2, you should be able to view them just with the ignition on,
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the reply. I've put the orginal pedal back on but get the same thing. The EML is on consistently and the car won't tick over at all. I was thought maybe something to do with the immobilizer as some electrics have changed, which is why I brought OP-COM, hoping I could "clear" the change.

I was told by the second garage that sensor 1 was the pedal and 2 was the throttle body itself. I went with the pedal is it was the cheaper option (or so I thought).

It definately says no fault codes on OP-COM and I don't have a print out of the original codes :(
 

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your garage was wrong, id suggest finding another garage, the pedal has 2 sensors, 1 which works from 5v to 0v and the other works from 0v to 5v, one increases as the other decreases, its a failsafe so that if it was to stick you wouldnt have a car thats reving its tits off, it corrolates one sensor against the other and relays the info back to the other, the throttle body also has the same setup and works in the same way,

check you have not bent any pins when putting the throttle body back on, its easily done, maybe try recording some live data and posting it online, maybe someone can spot something not right,
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry being a novice perhaps I've not explained it properly.

Once the second garage said it was a TPS sensor fault and advised it could be either the pedal or throttle body, I looked over the forum and saw the throttle body might just need cleaning out. I cleaned the throttle body (without removing it from the engine bay) and continued to drive the car for a week or so. After that, the light (car with spanner) came back on hence my decision to change the pedal.

It was after changing the pedal that the EML (orange engine) came on and remains on. Now the car won't even start so I don't think I'll be able to get any live data, will I?

I'll double check the connection pins on the pedal but as both pedals (the original and replacement) went on and off easily, I doubt this is the problem.

Any other ideas?
 

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When you wont start, does it crank over as normal? does OPCOM pick up any faults at all? You may need to check other modules. The H is very prone to having CIM issues, which causes the immobiliser to act up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No, it doesn't crank at all. It's like the immobilizer has kicked in and won't allow anything to start because there has been a change to the electronics.

Lights on the dash come on but the EML stays on consistently with no faults on OP-COM.

What is a CIM? Surely the fact this only happened once I changed the pedal means it's related to that????
 

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It is a very common fault on the H model, it may either need to be software flashed or replaced. The CIM is the steering column module, you can access it from OPCOM, it is under the body section. If code B3055 is set then you do have CIM issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sometimes it's the simplest things in life........turns out the battery was flat! The timing was just coincidence:lmfao. It's strange as nothing looked dim.

A neighbor suggested I try jump starting it, and it worked! He's a legend!

Thanks for your suggestions though folks. I'll let you know if the TPS issue comes back.

Do you think a battery going flat could put on a phantom code, or is this something you've seen before? and do you think I should leave the original pedal, which is currently on, or change it for the one from ebay?
 

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Low or dying batteries will cause all sorts of issues, the ECU watches for a set of values based on voltage, the most common fault codes brought up by a flat battery deal with the immobiliser being faulty, or unrecognized key transponder!
 

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Are you sure you did not dislodge anything else while down at the pedals as my sisters corsa auto you have to have your foot on the brake for it to start
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hopefully Mark. I will let you know.

It was definately a flat battery, off to Halfords today to get a new one and hopefully that's the end of it. :)

Thanks for your help.
 

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your garage was wrong, id suggest finding another garage, the pedal has 2 sensors, 1 which works from 5v to 0v and the other works from 0v to 5v, one increases as the other decreases, its a failsafe so that if it was to stick you wouldnt have a car thats reving its tits off, it corrolates one sensor against the other and relays the info back to the other, the throttle body also has the same setup and works in the same way,

check you have not bent any pins when putting the throttle body back on, its easily done, maybe try recording some live data and posting it online, maybe someone can spot something not right,
Hi Mark you seem very knowledgeable ,need some help zafira 54 plate two faults one is accelerator pedal been changed fault won't delete and also fan relay ,would you say ecu related to z16xe
 

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Hi Mark you seem very knowledgeable ,need some help zafira 54 plate two faults one is accelerator pedal been changed fault won't delete and also fan relay ,would you say ecu related to z16xe
your garage was wrong, id suggest finding another garage, the pedal has 2 sensors, 1 which works from 5v to 0v and the other works from 0v to 5v, one increases as the other decreases, its a failsafe so that if it was to stick you wouldnt have a car thats reving its tits off, it corrolates one sensor against the other and relays the info back to the other, the throttle body also has the same setup and works in the same way,

check you have not bent any pins when putting the throttle body back on, its easily done, maybe try recording some live data and posting it online, maybe someone can spot something not right,
As per Marks post very common for ECM issues. Just to make note however albeit on this old thread, should you need to test/confirm signals from the accelerator pedal assembly the voltages do not work in the same way as the throttle body as detailed above - they start at circa 0.5v/1.0v with the accelerator off and increase as pedal depressed - one voltage will always read half of the other.
 

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Astra h 1.4 sxi twin port 2006 car was running fine then one day went to it and started the car every thing seemed fine untill pressing the acceleration pedal there was no response and cutting out after 5-10 seconds so I changed the pedal still nothing got the car diagnosed to be egr valve and can shaft sensor changed them still nothing since the car had a flexi pipe and lambda sensor throttle body timing chain fuse box And more no response from the throttle still ?
 
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