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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have discovered that what i thought was a worn inner rack ball joint is actually movement between the rack and its housing. I am therefore now looking for a replacement. What is the experience of 'reconditioned' racks? What is the reconditioning process and does it actually replace/recondition worn major components or is it simply seals and a spray job?
Am I better to look for a good one off a scrap vehicle?
Many thanks
 

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I wouldn't go with scrap yard personally for something like that it's not that easy to change and to have to take it apart again spend a bit extra on a recon or new, I fitted a recon to same year as yours worked fine until the came belt snapped, leak free rack and clean oil & forget it
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok. I'm not jumping with joy at having to do it but I'm committed now. If recon parts are respected then I'll go with that option. Cheers.
 

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yep, get a recon rack

google power racks direct.
they are who i use.
to change the rack you will need to take out one of the springs on the bed, and the exhaust downpipe iirc, (its been a few years since i changed one )
check the connection between the column and the rack, the uj can wear out and cause it to knock and feel sloppy
 

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yep, that is the spring that need to come out as the rack wont clear it.
i would say is you arent competent on the spanners, get it done at the garage, as the springs can be a bit of a pain to get out without spring clamps
a bottle jack and a lump of wood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yep, that is the spring that need to come out as the rack wont clear it.
i would say is you arent competent on the spanners, get it done at the garage, as the springs can be a bit of a pain to get out without spring clamps
a bottle jack and a lump of wood.
You answered my question before I asked it.
 

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yeah its do-able, just a ball ache
i can write you a how to guide if needed, (can do it tomoz) no pics though and see if you think you can do it yourself
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
yeah its do-able, just a ball ache
i can write you a how to guide if needed, (can do it tomoz) no pics though and see if you think you can do it yourself
That would be great if you could give some direction. I'm not a pro but I've worked on a fair few vehicles. Hopefully I'll manage. I've borrowed spring compressors ... Need to order rack. One thing I need to ask also is how the lower wishbone ball joint is removed from the wishbone. I haven't looked on the vehicle but the replacement has a serrated/ knurled diameter; does this get pressed in/out?
 

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Will write you a how to guide later, am away in London this weekend, so will write it up Monday.
Ball joints are changed using a special till I am afraid.
They are pressed in and out.
I have heard of people hammering in and out, but I would 100% recommend finding somewhere with the tool to do it.
The tool is about £800 last time I inquired about purchasing one, so gave it a miss and borrowed one from my old work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Will write you a how to guide later, am away in London this weekend, so will write it up Monday.
Ball joints are changed using a special till I am afraid.
They are pressed in and out.
I have heard of people hammering in and out, but I would 100% recommend finding somewhere with the tool to do it.
The tool is about £800 last time I inquired about purchasing one, so gave it a miss and borrowed one from my old work.
Thanks for your help. I do have access to a hydraulic press so i guess I can look at the feasibility of removing the entire wishbone. Its going to be off its wheels for a few days anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Called power racks direct and they quoted me £280 +VAT (retail) but won't sell to non trade for safety reasons anyway.
What about the guys who do recon racks on eBay...'thesteeringspecialists'? offer the same rack for £168 Inc. Is it that they do a completely different level of 'reconditioning'? Anybody have any experience?
Am I missing something?
Thanks again.
 

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rack replacement guide (from memory, so please remove or skip anything that isn't suitable when doing)
1. jack up and put van on axle stands
2. remove both wheels
3. remove exhaust down pipe from turbo and clamp from centre section and take exhaust off
4. undo / slacken the 21/22 mm nut on the track rod / inner rack end (and spray with wd40 or some other lubricant) so the track rods can be unwound from the rack.
5. undo the 21mm nuts holding the track rod end in the hub, and whack the hub end with a hammer to split the rack end from the hub
6. un-wind each track rod end (count the number of turns or threads on each side so you can have a rough idea where to put the new ones)

*** (you may also need to remove one of the steering rack inner joints, to leave you with just the rack body as its easier to get out. (big pair of stilsens or something like to crack them off) ******

7. undo the 13mm bolt that links the column Universal joint to the rack. (its on the bottom of the comlun attached to the rack), and remove the uk
8. undo both front shock absorber top bolts (18mm)
9. get a bottle jack, and a lump of wood, place the bottle jack on top of the top ball joint (wishbone) on the hub and the bloc of wood ontop, and jack up into the wheel arch area. This is to take pressure off the springs that are on the bed. It might be a bit of a hassle, as the jack or wood may slip, but you will manage to get it right in the end.
(Definitely do this to the drivers side 100% as the spring needs to come out to allow the column of the rack to move past, but i am not 100% on the passenger side)
10. use a pair of spring clamps to clamp the bed spring down a bit whilst the bottle jack is releasing some pressure off of the wishbone, then remove the spring
11. undo the pipes to the rack
12. undo the bolts holding the rack on the bed (16mm i think)
remove the rack

refit is the reverse of removal
top up the fluid, but don't brim the reservoir, when u start the van, it will foam up a bit as the air comes out, but leave it running, and if you havent over filled it it wont spill out red foam everywhere.
let it settle once turned off, and top up later.

Remember to have your tracking checked once you have finished.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thank you very much for your time. This is so helpful. I intend to take the springs out both sides as I'm going to try to remove the lower ns wishbone in order to replace the ball joint. I'm starting it this evening... You'll doubtless hear from me again!
 

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you don't need to take the springs out to take the lower wishbone off.

to remove the wishbone, you will need to:
undo the shock
undo the trackrod end
remove the bottom ball joint nut and bolt (18/19mm)
place the bottlejack in between the top and bottom wishbone and jack the pair apart, with the use of a hammer and chisel in the back of the hub to open the bottom ball joint up a bit.
removing the wishbone, you will have to take the shock absorer with it unless want to replace the shocks whilst you are at it as they are pressed/interference fitted into the bottom wishbone.
 
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