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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, so the car front wheels seem to have a mind of their own, they follow any groves within the road, today i have also noticed inner Tyre wear on the drivers side do you think the wheel alignment is out?
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I think you need to check the inner wishbone joints too, along with a check of the rest of the suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys going to get this booked in for a wheel alignment check tomorrow no other knocking ect and will check the wishbone joints too
 

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Discussion Starter #5
hi so had wheel alignment done much better feeling now the only thing i have noticed the steering is stiffer turning right, so will i need to re-calibrate like suggested here? meriva 2009 ?
 

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Pick a big empty car park and drive slowly from full lock to full lock and the system is supposed to self calibrate.
However, I lived with mine pulling to the left for years, despite calibrating it with OpCom 160115a. I finally resolved it with version 170823c. Even Vauxhall with Tech2 couldn't get rid of the pull.

You should ideally check that you have the same steering angle readings from the torque sensor, on full lock left and right, otherwise it will not run right, even if the tracking is spot on.
 

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Check your tyre pressures and swap the fronts over if it pulls the other way then it’s tyre wear, tracking stops your tyres wearing out
 

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Discussion Starter #9
so had a good look around the drivers foot-well, i can see carpet has been cut, that allows access to the steering shaft and the lower one that goes out of the car looks new then the trim around the steering columns have been removed and the steering wheel as been taken off as the screws that keep the airbag in place have also been removed and refitted, the steering wheel is not straight, so i am thinking if this has not been re-fitted to the correct alignment would this confuse the steering sensor as and this could be the reason why its not feeling right? is it easy to remove and refit - any ideas (only had the car a few weeks!)
 

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so had a good look around the drivers foot-well, i can see carpet has been cut, that allows access to the steering shaft and the lower one that goes out of the car looks new then the trim around the steering columns have been removed and the steering wheel as been taken off as the screws that keep the airbag in place have also been removed and refitted, the steering wheel is not straight, so i am thinking if this has not been re-fitted to the correct alignment would this confuse the steering sensor as and this could be the reason why its not feeling right? is it easy to remove and refit - any ideas (only had the car a few weeks!)
When the steering wheel is straight what are the front wheels doing is it a cat s car etc
 

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Discussion Starter #11
When the steering wheel is straight what are the front wheels doing is it a cat s car etc
ok with the steering wheel straight the wheels are slightly leaning to the nearside and when driving the steering wheel is at 1 o'clock angle
 

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The first thing you ought to have told us is what car it is!
Has the car been accident damaged?
When you had the alignment checked, did they just do tracking, or a full check including castor & camber?
Did you get a print out? If so post a copy on the forum.
Depending on what car it is, I know the Astra H has master splines on all the column joints, so they cannot be put together wrongly. On the Astra H, if the wheel is not straight ahead when driving straight, either the track rods are wrongly adjusted, or, something is bent.
About ten years ago, I rebuilt a smashed Astra, and, afterwards, it wore the one front tyre like that. It turned out that the strut had been bent in the accident, but I couldn't see any bend. Another strut cured the tyre wear. This is why you need a full alignment check, including a camber check.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
@@Koicarpkeeper ok so this is the 1st reading i had when i got opcom connected..
Battery Voltage13.4 V
Power RelayClosed
Thermal LimitInactive
Calculated Diagnostic Torque4.96 V
Torque Sensor 12.45 V
Torque Sensor 22.51 V
Commanded Motor Torque0.0 Nm
Driver Torque To Steering Wheel-0.1 Nm
Steering Wheel Position1 °
Vehicle Speed0 km/h
Engine Speed0 RPM
Desired Motor Current0.0 a
Actual Motor Current0.0 a
EPS TelltaleOn

So after calibration is was/....

Battery Voltage14.5 V
Power RelayClosed
Thermal LimitInactive
Calculated Diagnostic Torque4.94 V
Torque Sensor 12.43 V
Torque Sensor 22.51 V
Commanded Motor Torque-0.2 Nm
Driver Torque To Steering Wheel-0.2 Nm
Steering Wheel Position2 °
Vehicle Speed0 km/h
Engine Speed767 RPM
Desired Motor Current0.1 a
Actual Motor Current0.1 a
EPS TelltaleOff

and after a further calibration got these the same
Driver Torque To Steering Wheel0.0
Steering Wheel Position0.0

but cants seem to get these altered?
Torque Sensor 12.43 V
Torque Sensor 22.51 V

 

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But you are not comparing like with like because the "before" is with the engine off and the "after" is with the engine at idle.
 

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The calibration mentioned by Koicarpkeeper might help how its stiff when turning right but the problem that when your steering wheel is straight the wheels are pointing to the nearside sounds mechanical i would take back to the place you had it aligned they may have left a bolt undone or something if your lucky or give you an explanation of what is wrong
 

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The first thing you ought to have told us is what car it is!
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I have been providing my responses on the basis that I think he has a Meriva A, simply because he asked about the best software to perform the calibration by tagging it onto the end of one of my old threads relating to my Meriva. However, it could well be that he has a completely different vehicle in the absence of a response to the question you asked.
 

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You need both track rods to be the same overall length and the steering wheel to be centred, otherwise you are looking at a difference straight away even if the tracking is supposedly within limits. My vehicle had twice as much thread showing one side compared to the other side and it took a lot of messing about to get the steering angle to read zero in Vauxcom and the track rod ends to be evenly adjusted and the tracking to be spot on as well as completing the calibration steps described in the other thread.
The Meriva is a tall car and has an unusual tendency to "fall down the camber" of roads so it drifts to the left on local roads. Mine still does that slightly but I can release the steering wheel on somewhere like a dual carriageway or on the motorway that is flat and the car will drive true as an arrow.
 

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You need both track rods to be the same overall length and the steering wheel to be centred, otherwise you are looking at a difference straight away even if the tracking is supposedly within limits. My vehicle had twice as much thread showing one side compared to the other side and it took a lot of messing about to get the steering angle to read zero in Vauxcom and the track rod ends to be evenly adjusted and the tracking to be spot on as well as completing the calibration steps described in the other thread.
Quite so, and, if the track rods are different lengths, the "toe out on turns" will be wrong, which can lead to the type of tyre wear he has.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
soz yeah its a meriva 1.6 2009 - will be checking out all your suggestions friday :)
 
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