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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Ok so I've manually turned the motor using the manual screw at top, so the rod is fully extended but cannot get the push rod to connect to the master cylinder, I've just pushed it down and needless to squirted a little dot 4 out?
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Current position, I can't get the push rod to make contact with it.

Currently, the flang in the middle is at the bottom of it's travel
 

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If the master cylinder wont reattach to the rod then somethings wrong.
I would put it back together and send it off to Ecu Testing, list your fault codes and ask them to test it, they have a gearbox on a rig that they use to fully test the actuator, if its not faulty they will tell you.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The rod winds out fully ok on the motor side, the problem is that flang is to far down to make any contact with the rod if that makes sense, the problem is on the master cylinder, is it not spring loaded as how would you attach a new one?
Thanks
 

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Try reattaching it and put some air pressure through it like when you bleed it out, this should force the cylinder back and allow the rod to attach. You will need to clamp the pipe that runs from the master cylinder to the slave.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I have tried to re attach it, but that middle flang is too far down to get the rod push through it. I'm just wondering if the piston in the master cylinder is faulty? how would you attach a new one if so. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
I'm thinking somehow, the flang in the middle sleeve of the master cylinder as pushed down inside, that far as the bar won't pop into it, so this could be the cause as that wouldn't depress the clutch properly... just a thought as rod is out as far as possible

Just wondering if to take a gamble and buy a new one, can't see anyway of refitting this on or off the car, if I block the oil output at the bottom air still come out from the oil inlet at top.
 

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I dont understand,.. how are you putting air into it if you block the pipe going to the slave cylinder and its leaking out the input pipe, the air supply should be attached to the input pipe? This should then lift the plunger and keep it up while you reattach it, hopefully the pressures enough to allow the rod to push home, you may need to assist it by holding the rod with some long nose pliers through the gap in the side.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
I will try again tomorrow, I have ordered another master cylinder as it looks too far down to reconnect it, the picture does make the gap look bigger than it is to get long nose pillars in.

you can pull the sleeve of the piston out pulling the flang inside closer, but its keeping the sleeve out whilst trying to connect it, as it just sinks back in regardless of blocking the slave cylinder connector off.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Hi all,

Just a quick update, after waiting over a week for a new mastercylinder to arrive I still had a struggle getting it to re connect to the actuator arm, however I did get the new part to fit in the end.

As a work around, I gently pulled the piston out as far as it could go, using a syringe filled the piston chamber with DOT4 then using the bung that came with it, wrapped a balloon around it and put it back in, to seal it.

Doing this kept the piston in place as it compressed against the fluid and allow it to clip back on.

I've fitted the actuator back to the car but still need to bleed it etc. I'm at work today but as soon as time allows I will try it again, fingers crossed this fixes it as I really don't know what else to try.

Really hoping it's a perished seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Hi all,

Still the same :( only now it's throwing up DTC P1607 - clutch actuator position control error

Would air in the clutch system due to it running past low the first time around cause this? I've now install a new master cyclinder, bleed using op com 1.39 with fresh DOT4. only thing I'm missing is a bleeder kit as it does mention this on op com?

When bleeding I have topped the fluid up using a syringe.

Thanks
 

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You need to use a pressure bleeder, its the only real way to bleed air from the system, you can use a easibleed like this,..https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gunson-Eezibleed-Brake-Fuid-Bleeding-Bleeder-Kit-Caliper-G4062/360954384907?epid=21034034100&hash=item540a8ed20b:g:BZQAAOSw6DhdlzpY
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Hi Andy,

Thanks, I did ordered one from amazon, same as listed :) but it did not cure the problem.

Replacing the master cylinder only seemed to removed P1731 = Gearbox Actuator Temperature - Not present, which I thought was odd

Now it show's P1607 - clutch actuator position control error, and touch point adaption not learned

I have since sent the unit off to ecu testing as a last resort, they have said that they couldn't find any fault codes when testing, but the technician said the internal components are heavily worn and will fail soon.

My argument over the phone was do they test them with the hydraulic line connected to the master cylinder and an actual clutch assembly to replicate load, they said no they test them on a gearbox only.

My thinking is if the motor that drives the clutch is faulty and shows this under load in the car, they would not pick this up when testing as the motor can move freely without load

When I fitted the actuator back in and bled the system, I left the clutch manual rewind screw cover off to see it spin, when turning the ignition on I did notice it does several complete spins before only completing several short half attempts at turning, as this is happening I could hear a screeching/electrical noise coming from the box (similar to when a failing capacitor is discharging) and the screw was struggling move, after that it stopped moving and the "F" was displayed again.

I have asked ecu testing to recondition it all, again as a last resort as I'm not sure there's anything else I can try or do?
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
Ok just an update, I have received the actuator/ECU back from ECU testing, they have fully reconditioned it

I have bleed the system using op com 1.39 and a pressure bleeder kit, no issues

When trying the touchpoint adaption learning the same issue is still there gggrrrrr clutch biting and releasing until F is displayed

Scanning for fault's it is reading DTC'S

P1734 - Touchpoint adaption not done - present
P1708 - Clutch Hydraulic - present

Bearing in mind I have fitted a new master cylinder to the actuator, really stumped as to what else try, only things left would be the slave cylinder/clutch (although no leaks on floor or on bell housing

Any help advice??
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Also, with this being a manual box with the actuator and gear motors bolted on, would I be correct in saying that I could just buy a slave cylinder listed for a 2002 corsa c or would it specifically need to be for a automatic box?

Thanks
 
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