A 2006 1.9 will have the low pressure pump on the high pressure pump (on the engine) not in the tank.
You should have the manual pump (rubber bulb by filter) to prime the system.

 

As a matter of interest is the high pressure pump turning.....just an idea...this sorta thing is usually down to air leaks on the induction side of the pump and /or low pressure from the high pressure pump, i would try to identify if the injectors are triggering and check the air filter and compression....Fred in Essex.

 

Thanks DTK1 I was not to sure so mental note taken on that one,

Fred, there is no pressure in the rail and the fuel is trickling out when it should be firing out at quite a rate when the mechanic bled the system. No leaks are detected on pipework leading to the high pump.

 

Have you got plenty of fuel in the tank,
Can you pump fuel in and out of the filter with the primer bulb and to the lift pump.
Is the lift pump solenoid buzzing ,,, the one on the back of the HP pump ..

 

Sounds like the HP might be low?, have you got anything to test it, it may mean nothing but on old pressure type system before common rail, if you took a pipe off an injector and cranked it over the diesel would only trickle out the pipe, that was normal, but the actual pressue was still very high....might be differenton common rail i dont know....just a thought though...from Fred.

 

Plenty of fuel in the tank, going to change the filter after i get back from work today. The primer bulb is working and can squeeze fuel through the line, the solenoid is also buzzing. The other discrepancy is that the Snap-on diagnostics modis say that the solenoid should read 14 ohms when new, the new one and old one taken out both read 2.5/2.6 ohms. which one is right?? I have found somewhere on the net that say the Bosch should read 2-2.5 ohms does anyone have any idea on that?? When cranked the bulb does go soft where fuel has been taken but not empty, only takes half a squeeze to charge the bulb again.
I appreciate all the help and comments guys. Many thanks

 

If the Ohms reading is that low it might mean you have a short in it, i'm not all that keen on ohms readings myself Fred.

 

If you put the ignition on without starting is there a buzzing coming the back of the hp pump, you could unplug it and see if there is power there, cos if it's unplugged it will not start so it would be a quick test,
It wouldnt be a bad idea to check the sensor on the fuel rail

 

How about crank sensor

 

Hi N19, there is a buzzing when the ignition is on, but stops when the plug to the solenoid is unplugged. Its recently had a new crank case sensor, and all the other sensors have been check as working as a matter of course using snap-on modis diagnostics. live data shows only 150 to 190 psi on the pressure rail and its been cracked when cranked and the fuel just dribbles out. I believe it should spray out more than that it was being pumped out, some one else has suggested taking the solenoid out and using the hand bulb to pump some fuel out of the hole it sits in to check its coming through.

 

I would borrow another fuel rail pressure sensor, I had a faulty 1 and it wouldn't start, I was using opcom it showed 170 - 0 back and forth, I'm surprised you don't have opcom, if I was closer I'd come and plug it in,

This is a few yrs ago, I don't have a vivaro anymore

LIVE DATA ENGINE NOT RUNNING
OP-COM 100219a - PC based diagnostic tool

Date and time> 11/03/2014. 13:358

Workshop information:

hkj


Selected model> 2003 Vivaro Engine F9Q 760/762 (1.9l)

Control Unit:

Keyword #1: D0
Keyword #2: 8F

Normal timing parameter set.


Identifier: 8200118526
Data version number: 0C
Manufacturer code: 37
Software version: 1100
Platform identifier: 8301
VDIAG Number: 0C
Electronic variant number: 8200119800
Program number: 00CB
VIN:W0LF7ACA63V614822

Measuring blocks information:

System Voltage 12.3 V
Ignition Status On 12V
Voltage Supply Sensor 1 5.0 V
Voltage Supply Sensor 2 5.0 V
Immobiliser Signal Okay
Immobiliser Function Programmed Yes
APP Sensor 1 (Accelerator Pedal Position) 0.73 V
APP Sensor 1 (Accelerator Pedal Position) 0%
APP Sensor 2 (Accelerator Pedal Position) 0.00 V
APP Sensor 2 (Accelerator Pedal Position) 0%
Accelerator Position Sensor Signal 0%
Intake Air Temperature 36 °C
Mass Air Flow Sensor 13 kg/h
Boost Pressure 102 kPa
Coolant Temperature 55 °C
Vehicle Speed 0 km/h
Brake Switch 1 Inactive
Clutch Switch Inactive
Desired Engine Idle Speed 800 RPM
Engine Speed 0 RPM
Cam/Crank Sensor Signal Synchronisation Status Asynchronous
Fuel Pump Relay Inactive
Common Rail Fuel Pressure 179 kPa
Fuel Temperature 32 °C
Boost Pressure Command 5%
EGR Position Command (Exhaust- Gas Recirculation) 5%
EGR Position Feedback (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) 0.00 V
Glow Time Relay Inactive
Diagnosis Glow Time Relay Active
Heater Relay 1 (Additional Electrical) Inactive
Heater Relay 2 (Additional Electrical) Inactive
Heater Relay 3 (Additional Electrical) Inactive
A/C Information Switch (Air Conditioning) Inactive
A/C Pressure (Air Conditioning) 0 kPa
A/C Relay (Air Conditioning) Inactive
Output 1 Cooling Fan Relay Inactive
Output 2 Cooling Fan Relay Inactive
Engine Telltale (Check Light) Off
Glow Time Telltale Off 12V
High Coolant Temperature Lamp Off
Desired Idle Injection Quantity 0.0 mg/strk
Injection Quantity 28.6 mg/strk
Barometric Pressure 103 kPa
Instantaneous Consumption 90.0 L/hour
Idle Speed Offset 0 RPM

 

Have you seen what the pressure reads cranking it over, I can't remember what is was on mine

 

Ive just twigged I do have op-com, I bought it last year and its in my tool box and never used it. I will take my laptop down after tea and plug it in and see what it comes up with. (if its not too cold!!)
The fuel rail pressure should be bar not psi, and should be in the upper hundreds not where it is now.

 

Ah that sounds good, to change PSI to Bar multiple by 14.7.

14.7 lbs per square inch is 1 bar. Fred.

 

Well plugged in opcom but coming up with USB connection issues to the laptop, so going to have to sort them out before it will connect with the van. Removed the solenoid and pumped the primer bulb and fuel does come out of the hole where it sits. It's hard to push it through from the bulb but it does flow somewhat. Not knowing how much should come out it's difficult to say whether its a good flow.

 

My laptop had to have the opcom wiring adapter /set up plugged in to the laptop during set up to recognise it's port,, But not plugged into the van,,
(went to local computer shop to tell me what to do)

 

Well the saga continues..... the garage changed the fuel pump today after testing the one fitted to the van, no fuel getting to the rail. New one fitted and tested, all bled through and 300 bar at the rail..............and down she went lower and lower back to 150 bar, checked the pump all good. There at a loss, so spoke top Renault/Vauxhall specialist who said it was either the Immobiliser or the BCM causing the issues.
So now there swapping parts to try and get it started. Has anyone else had/come across this problem??

 

Sounds like the pressure is basically there, it just doesn't stay there.....isn't there something on the pump the monitors the pressure via the ecu..sounds like it isn't working properly....has it got a pressure regulator somewhere, maybe letting the pressure drop...Fred.

 

Have they checked the pressure relief valve on the end of the fuel rail is not leaking, you just have to pull the pipe off to see if it's letting fuel out?

 

The more informed members will know if this is possible....
Can they hydraulically test the pressure with a gauge on the rail, rail pressure sensor disconnected, and force the pump sensor open to provide diesel, then see what leak off there is from injector and rail relief valve,,,, cos this pressure is going some where,, and if you can isolate mechanical from the electrical cause you will be on your way to solving the problem

 

Get a rail off a laguna. Theyre not dear 2nd hand

 

Going into the garage this morning to see where we stand on this, I will remember everything everyone has said and see what exactly they have done

 

I would have thought you would need a pretty good gauge to record that amount of pressure....not wishing to go over old ground but if the injectorrs are leaking back that could cause it, there is a way to test the pressure with a multimeter on the pressure switch electrically......Fred.

 

Van still won't start and the fuel system seems to be fine, they having confirmed it with Vauxhall. It is all pointing to the immobiliser and key, but since I don't have a second key I have to go down the route of Vauxhall coding a new remote to the van to test out that theory, more expense!! And to top it off I have to get the van from the garage tonight back to home, then have it recovered to Vauxhall for coding when I get back of holiday next week. So going pete tong with this bloody van haha

 

If your convinced the fuel system is ok you might want to think about what the immobilizer does on yours, i thought it had something to do with the injectors delivering fuel...i suppose the crank and cam sensors are ok and compression ok, induction and exhaust side of things ok...does it run on easystart...you have prob ben through all this...Fred.

 

Fred, how do you check the pressure switch with a multimeter?? This can be very good information for me