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Sadly I didn't get much time to work on the car this weekend - had 3 other vehicles to sort which were a higher priority than the Omega. This means the engine isn't out - still have to seperate the transmission and snap ... I mean remove the bolts for the exhaust down pipes. My engine hoist didn't materialise anyway so that's going to be a job for next weekend. My plan is to probably remove the engine next weekend, have a full strip down guide the weekend after (You'll have Geff to thank for that) and then start the long haul of putting it back together. That's all assuming my neck/back becomes slightly less knackered than it is now thanks to working on frigging cars!

I've had to buy a temporary car now (Just a pug 205 diesel) to tide me over while I fix the Omega. I've got to admit I've really struggled this weekend to get motivation to put this much effort into what was supposed to be my reliable maintenance-free daily driver. Ah well, I guess this is just the low point where I question whether it's worth the effort etc. We'll see. Anyway, here's the next installment - looks like quite a lot now but I think I spent more time writing it up than I did doing it!!

Step 86 - Remove the two plastic end pieces (One either side of the car) at the front of the engine bay by rotating the screw and lifting the plastic away.



Step 87 - Under the plastic covers you will find a torx screw. Remove this so that the centre piece will lift away. You will now be able to see the radiator (Second pic)




Step 88 - Remove the clip & hose to the coolant overflow bottle



Step 89 - Undo the banjo bolts on the driver's side of the radiator, the first picture shows the bolt at the top of the rad, second picture shows the bottom bolt. They will probably be quite hard to crack off but then they'll unscrew very easily


 

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Step 90 - There is a piece of plastic across the back of the rad which houses the fan. A wiring loom runs across it too and this should be disconnected. I had cable ties but I guess that's not a factory fit item so whatever you've got remove



Step 91 - Using pliers, squeeze the white cable connectors holding the loom to the fan shroud. This will then pull out and the loom will be free.



Step 92 - Unplug the connector to the fans by lifting the locking tab up and sliding it off (You can see the connector better in step 94 - this is a bit too close to figure out really!)



Step 93 - Looking down the nearside of the rad you should see a blue connector in this picture. On the under side of the connector (You can't see it from above) there is a locking tab. Just like in step 92, lift it up and it'll slide away



Step 94 - One final cable tie held my wiring loom on



Step 95 - Time to remove this reservoir running across the front of the engine. Use some pliers or a monkey wrench (Works very well because it locks and allows you to slide the connector back down the pipe), release the clip and remove the pipe.

 

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Step 96 - Remove the connector on the resorvoir by squeezing both sides and it should be free to lift out



Step 97 - Use locking grips for this and it makes it easier - either side of the rad are two metal clips, squeeze them in pretty tightly (They won't give much resistance but the more you compress them the easier it is to get them off) and they can be manoeuvred out so the rad can be lifted free.

The second picture shows you what the clips look like and how much I squeezed them




Step 98 - Taken at a very strange angle (I guess I was holding the rad with one hand so apologies for this, it wasn't meant to be artistic or anything!!). You're looking at the nearside of the rad and that's the top hose coming off towards the engine. Underneath is a connector going to what I assume is a thermoswitch. Slide the metal tab up and it will come free.



Step 99 - Remove the top hose. Again, squeeze the clip, slide it down the pipe and then pull the pipe off

The rad should now be free. To remove it, simply pull it vertically and it will slide out - there will be a very small amount of resistance at first because it sits in a couple of holes but it shouldn't need much force. Work it up by "Wriggling" it so you pull the left side then the right side but not forcefully. It's easier than lifting straight up. Second pic shows the rad when removed


 

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Step 100 - The fan can be removed now, it simply pulls away by leaning it words the engine bay. In the picture you can see the little stud that comes out and sits in a rubber retainer to hold it in place. You need to remove the connector before you lift it away from the car (Shown in picture 2)




Step 101 - Back to the coolant overflow, remove the clip and pipe to the underside of the bottle



Step 102 - Remove the metal clip at the side of the reservoir, mind just needed fingers but if necessary use a screwdriver to free it



Step 103 - Free the coolant bottle by pushing it towards the engine as shown in the picture. Note there is one hose attached although you've already disconnected the other end so pull it free with the bottle



Step 104 - Time to sort the wiring loom a little more. You see the two bolts which both have two wires going into them - undo them. The main body of the thing (The circle bit) is connected to the loom. Once we remove the other 4 wires this is free to move around so we can have complete access to the front of the engine.

 

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Step 105 - Moving down to the power steering pump now, undo the nut holding the metal pipe to the pump. Note : I didn't drain the fluid before I did this so had to catch it as it came out at this point. I'd advise you drain it first (Assuming you can, you'd have to refer to Haynes for that!)



Step 106 - To gain access to the bolts holding the pump on you will need to remove the ground cable. Undo the bolt shown and move the wire out of the way



Step 107 - You'd be forgiven for having no idea what I'm trying to show here! It's the other end of the top rad hose being removed, bit awkward but work the pipe out of the way so you can get at the power steering pump



Step 108 - The electrics was still getting in my way so I decided to remove the other two big connectors. Just like earlier, three clips holding each one together - ease them off with a screwdriver and then unscrews the connector to remove it.



Step 109 - I stopped at this point and looked at how my engine has changed. Quite different from when I started!! Right, enough slacking off back to work...



Step 110 - Undo the jubilee clip holding on the pipe to the power steering fluid reservoir

 

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Step 111 - Remove the 3 torx bolts holding the power steering pump bracket in place. Looking back, I don't think there was any need to do this so skip this step unless you can't remove the pump once you've done the following



Step 112 - Took me a while to figure out what this was! Remove the jubilee clip on the other end of the pipe which goes to the power steering reservoir.



Step 113 - Remove the cable bolted to the front of the oil pump so you have access in step 114



Step 114 - Right, 3 bolts hold the power steering pump on, you can see none of them. First one I tackled was in the middle in a recess you will be able to feel with your finger down the side of the pump (Picture 1)



You can see in picture 2 how long the bolts are so there's a fair bit of turning to do for these bolts - bit of a pain when you can't see them but with time they WILL come out!



Second of the three bolts is below the first (See picture 3), much the same as before and equally long bolt!

 

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The fourth picture is blurred but I left it in because it shows you the location of the final bolt and also that I had to use a small extension bar to reach it.



Step 115 - Remove the blasted pump! Here's what it looks like



Step 116 - All that work means we can finally get to the engine mount. Really easy bolt to undo so don't worry that it's still pretty awkward to reach. Once cracked off it'll come out with your fingers



Step 117 - Pop round the other side of the car and you've already got access to the other engine mount. Again, crack it off and it'll be easy to undo

 

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And that's it so far. I'm now going to try and figure out how I can turn my head without wanting to die - good got that hurts!

Any motivational speeches would be good right now before I burn this heap of junk!
 
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James. I am impressed and think you are great. I bow down before you.....

OK, so I think you are barking. How old is this Omega? I may have another one today that I may break. It has a good 2.5 V6 and autobox and 93k.

Won't know till later. Any use to you?
 

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When you finish it you will be motivated, I promise you.....

.....if its any help, the back of my legs are killing me after leaning over Omega engine bays for 10 hours non stop on Saturday.
 

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Thanks Finlay, I feel much better now!

Very old. Far too old to be wasting this much effort on. Too old for me to bother with. Slightly less old than the £200 peugeot which has been far more reliable and cheaper than the omega.

I refuse to quit now, I'm not swapping engines - this one will be fixed or beaten with a sledge hammer.

Oh, keep that engine to one side for when I give up in a fortnight won't you!!

Mark - I don't believe you! It does make me feel slightly better ... until I try to turn my head!
 

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In step 95 you removed a thing you called a reservoir. It's the auxiliary air pump. It blows extra air into the exhaust gases before the cat to burn the extra fuel injected while the engine is cold. You don't need to remove the wiring loom covers to undo the connectors, the locking ring turns and they rise up and come out.

Spent some time following your work as I've started some on mine. Very, very useful.
 
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