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P0683-02 Glow device general error

39K views 83 replies 8 participants last post by  Lance2008 
#1 ·
Hi All, Ive been having this code (P0683 - 02 glow device general error) come on when starting car and staying on, but then sometimes it doesnt come on on start up, checked the 10Amp fuse and the 80amp fuse, they seem ok? is this glow plug 2 not working? as it says 2 after code? im sure last time when i had a glow plug not working it was something like glow plug circuit not present? or could it be the glow plug control unit?
any info on this please... 2011 Zafira 1.7eco a17 dtj engine
 
#2 ·
Hi,

The 02 is a code for the type of failure, in this case it's signal error. The ecu is not seeing the glow plug system, could be down to a bad/loose connector/pins, fuses (which you've checked), relay or the glow module itself.
The reasons it could be intermittent are like mentioned - a loose connector, failing component like a relay or module. The other could be temperature related, the ecu checks temps on ignition to see if glow control is needed, if it's not, then the ecu wont power the glow system hence it won't know about or flag the error.
 
#4 ·
Just checked the schematics for your engine and there is no seperate relay for glow system so it will all be down to the glow module. I'd test the coms wires for continuity between the module connector plug and the ecu connector plug (see pics for ref) if they're good You'd have to suspect the module to be at fault.
On this system it's saying the glow system should operate upto a temp of 20c so you should be good to test for power at plugs on a cold start, which should read around 11-12v.



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#7 ·
This part and number on it - I put in google and it shows it’s a relay? Would this be the fault? I’ve checked the 1st and 2nd glow plug, the plugs that go on top of the glow plugs and no power to the multi metre set at 20v when engine on and started shoes no power haven’t tried 3rd and 4th plug, I’m holding the red lead from multi metre to the glow plug lead and the black lead to the engine and tried the battery negative, doesn’t read anything, am I doing it right? Or will it only show 11-12v when cracking engine?


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#18 ·
Brown/green is a single wire, it means brown with a green stripe. Same for white/yellow.
If you look at the back of the connector plug you'll see the wires and their colours and which terminal they belong to.
Brown is the earth, the large terminal you circled should be the red wire - main power from the 80amp fuse.
Yes 7 pins/terminals in total.
 
#21 ·
The other two should be black they serve the four glow plugs. You can check them for contuinity to the glow connectors if you wish, but the trouble code relates to a communication problem with the glow module. That's why I didn't mention them. You want to be checking power, earth and wiring to the module. Like mentioned if all these check out then the problem will be the glow module, it most likely is the module at fault but It's always best to be a 100% and not buying new parts on a guess.
 
#22 ·
Gotcha, also am I just checking this plug what goes into the module ? Or am I checking some other plug at the same time? And just use volts and continuity settings? And with engine on or off or running?
Thanks sorry think weather got to me lol


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#27 ·
Haha this weathers a killer especially when your tryin to entertain the kids, rebuild a cylinder head and chat on forums lol.
I keep saying pins but should really be calling them terminals as they are the receivers on the plug side. Pins are on the component side.
To test for voltage, set the multimeter to voltage 20v - place the red probe on the terminal with the red wire and the black probe on the earth (terminal with the brown wire) switch on ignition (don't start the engine) and you should see 12ish volts. Do the same for test for the terminal with the brown/green wire, should see 12ish volts.
To test for continuity (don't have ignition on) you set the multimeter to ohms/resistance, place one probe on a terminal, brown for instance then place the other probe on the engine or earth on the battery you should have near zero ohms or some multimeters will buzz or beep to tell you there's continuity (a complete circuit/ unbroken wire). Do the same test for the for the white/yellow wire terminal to terminal 53 on the ecu plug (which is behind the left wheel arch liner see pic) Same again for green wire terminal to terminal 33 ecu plug.

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