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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,
Zafira-B 2010 1.7cdti ecoflex A17DTJ with DPF engine.

So i've started to get this fault code come up. Tends to only appear on first start of the day, when car has been sat a day or so. Initially driving along the road car is underpower and using torque on OBD I can see no boost pressure being generated.
If I try to floor it the car will 'try' and then I get EML and limp home mode. If I then use torque to clear the EML/codes (P0299) then it will immediately clear the fault and I get boost back and the car pulls as it should.
If I don't push the car initially, I can slowly get around then after 5-10 mins the boost problem solves itself and the car will boost.

After the above the car will run great the rest of the day, no matter how many/few start and stops, etc.

I think I need to look at the "Turbocharger Actuator Wastegate" as my suspicion is it's not moving as commanded. There is a TSB on these becoming sticky too.
I've tried to free it with a few WD40 squirts, and if I push the actuator rod I can move it, but it's tough, like if I hold it down (engine off obviously) I'll get the imprint of the thing in my skin/finger! so it's not that free.
Question - How freely should it move? Would anybody care to compare please, let me know if it should be easy to move between extremes?
I'm not convinced mine moves to full 'down' as the pressure I need to put on it seems too great.

If so, how do I free it up, will it be the vanes inside sticking, and if so can I clean it from outside, or is it a disassemble job?
On the A17DTJ the turbo and actuator is in an awkard place right at the front but half way down so it'd be a remove all 3 radiators job, so practically front end of car apart.

Is there anything else I'm missing here? There must be a control solenoid somewhere, where is it and easy to test?

I've had opcom hooked up looking for sensor data and looking at boost requested, etc, it seems right. When not running it's showing 100kpa and requested 102kpa, and when running it shows values on there which seem to look right, but what values should I be looking at?
Testing it at idle any good or do I need to drive it and try to get it to EML and log the values?

Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post!

Andy
 

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100kpa is correct as that is 1 atmosphere, the sensors look at a differential so they start at 100, if you rev the car the readings should go up, have you got some picture of what you are squirting wd40 at
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for replying, good to know on the kpa values, so that makes sense, and yes readings go up.
I'm trying to keep free the actuator linkages, difficult to show on photo but sort of at the side of where I've marked in red where the linkage meets the turbo housing.
94710


I'm fairly sure though it's as free as it should be, I'd be grateful if somebody else can manipulate that linkage by hand and confirm to me that it moves ok but with a little force.

Today I cleaned out the EGR also, to eliminate that to ensure it wasn't a related fault causing the issue. No change there and the EGR wasn't terrible in my opinion. It was free/moved so wasn't totally gone.
(I've seen a lot worse!)
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But one thing I have noticed is the EGR cooler also has a vacuum actuated valve and that one won't budge at all by hand. Cannot move it up or down at all.
Anyone care to tell me what the importance of that valve on the egr is and if it was cause problems?

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Otherwise, I'm back to trying to guess what the fault is since it's such a generic fault code :-(

Again, the moment I clear the code when it goes into limp mode it solves it and I get full boost and the car runs fine again.

Thank you!
 

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The egr cooler bypass valve is used to help warm the engine up quicker and also to cool the exhaust gas before it passes into the inlet tract, not really related to your problem though unless the bypass actuator diaphragm is leaking vacuum, needs testing with a mityvac.
To start with you need to check how much vacuum you have at the turbo actuator, should be minimum 25 inHg with the engine at idle.
 

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those cheap vacuum brake bleed kits of ebay for about £10 do the same job, ive used mine more to test vacuum stuff than to bleed brakes
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, yes good call on testing the vacuum. The egr one is solid so it could be an issue.

That pipe is connected btw, just the braid makes it look like it's not on.
I'll get a vacuum brake kit, I've always done it the bottle pipe method for brakes!
94740

These do the job?
 

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Thanks, yes good call on testing the vacuum. The egr one is solid so it could be an issue.

That pipe is connected btw, just the braid makes it look like it's not on.
I'll get a vacuum brake kit, I've always done it the bottle pipe method for brakes!
View attachment 94740
These do the job?
yep same one ive got, cheap and cheerfull, you can use it to test vacuum or connect direct to the actuator and make it work, might need some extra rubber tube but very handy cheap tool
 

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It does move and it should be reasonably stiff to operate as the strong tension keeps it closed. There is a solenoid on the rear of the engine block that controls this, I removed mine (which wasn’t easy as it’s quite awkward to get to) and cleaned out the little filter that’s in it to see if it was blocked as I had read on the forums it can get dirty and not work correctly. If you’ve cleaned out your egr valve I would remove the mass air flow pressure sensor (MAP) on the inlet manifold and clean that with spray designed to clean the crud of off them, mine was filthy.


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The spring tension from the actuator keeps the wastegate open, the vacuum applied to the actuator from the control solenoid will pull it shut to create boost, hence why you need a strong vacuum.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks @Astramark yes good point I didn't clean the MAP, but I know they can be a bit delicate to clean too! Also yes I was thinking about the solenoid at the rear so may take a look too. Easier from the top (wiper tray, etc, off) or from underneath?

The spring tension from the actuator keeps the wastegate open, the vacuum applied to the actuator from the control solenoid will pull it shut to create boost, hence why you need a strong vacuum.
Thanks @andyl that answers what I was wanting to confirm, so when vacuum works it creates boost by holding the actuator shut. So initially that makes me think the vacuum isn't strong enough to work against potentially sticky actuator/wastegate until car has 'warmed up' or increased the vacuum. Gives me something to work to.

Will update once I test vacuum pressures.

Thanks everyone.
 

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Underneath is the way to get to vacuum control solenoid for the turbo actuator.


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My bad [mention]andyl [/mention] it keeps it open, just realised my mistake. Sorry


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Discussion Starter #14
Not a problem @Astramark thanks for the update :)

So the brake kit arrived, my god, why have I never ordered one of those before! Makes many jobs much easier!
So far I've tested the EGR cooler, and sure enough that was jammed solid, no pressure would move it. So slowly I've been freeing it off and it now works under vacuum from the brake kit. So that's one step forward as I'm not exactly sure what the car will have made of that, requesting/providing vacuum and getting no response.

Next job is doing the same with the turbo and seeing how I get on, as it's a bit more awkward to get at the pipe, probably going to go from underneath so whilst I'm at it will get the car on ramps and get at the back and look at the solenoids too.
Cheers folks and I'll update back further.
 

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Would be worth checking the vacuum pump output while your at it, not uncommon for them become weak overtime.


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