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Omega advice??

1K views 22 replies 11 participants last post by  TronicV6 
#1 ·
Hi peeps

this is my first post on here, so go easy
i'm on the lookout for an omega and just wanted some opinions/advice?

I'm thinking of a 2.5 as i've been told the 3.0 is much more thirsty
would like a manual, but what are the auto's like?
not too fussed whether it's a saloon or estate, but what spec is best to go for? i'm thinking CD or above

and as for mileage, how far can they go if treated well?
i'm on a tight budget :cry: but have seen lots around for between 500-1000 with anything upwards of 100k on

p.s. would go for a vectra v6, but i've wanted something with rwd for ages

thanks :Cool2:
 
#3 ·
Mileage not a problem as long as looked after.

The genral opinion here is that the 3.0 is not much thirstier than the 2.5 (I only had a 2.5 and a 2.6 so can't personally compare).

Cambelt & tensioner change every 40k or 4 years is absolutly mandatory on the V6. Expensive job to do at a Vauxhall dealer, i.e. £300-350. Can be done DIY, the cambelt & tensiner kit are £60-90, and requires a locking kit (must have it - around £50-60 from eBay) and takes around 3-4 hours - lot's of help on these forums how to do this.

Cambelt & tensioner change MUST be documented by official garage bill - not by previous owner's word. If (a) no garage bill, or (b) garage bill says cambelt but does not specify tensoiner, then both cambelt & tensioner must be changed asap. Asap means just that, drive the car home but don't start it again before you do the cambelt & tensioner kit. Tensioner faliure common problem, and means engine wrecked and in a sub £1,000 car probably also means car scrapped.

When checking the car, slight 'mayo' in in the oil filler neck is normal if car is used for short / cold journyes, should clear after good motorway driving. Mayo on dipstick or oil in water means trouble.

Also electronics needs checking, especially on higher-end CDX/Elite to make sure all 'toys' are working.

Errr.. that's it, really...
 
G
#7 ·
I would go for one with HID's headlamps wether its CDX or Elite, my CD has ordinary filament bulbs and even with +50 bulbs in them they are still pretty naff.
I was going to upgrade them to HID's, but have been put off due to how much work is invovled. Doing it the vx way (and not buying a fleabay kit, coz the lights would then be illegal) would mean, afaik, and i might miss something out here, new headlamps with ballasts, tilt sensors, headlamp washers, new wiring loom.
 
G
#8 ·
Welcome to the forum Robster. You will find we are a friendly bunch here. :)

You can buy a reasonable Omega for around 1,000. :)
I would be very suprised if it had the impressive HID's though (fitted from late 97 on to higher spec models).

The 2.5 is the best mix of power and economy (this is relative with a V6 ;)).

Manual will give better economy, but auto is superb.

If you go for a 2.5, then you should be able to find a manual CDX easily enough. I used to have one, and it was very good.

If you go for a 3.0, it will most likely be an auto as the only manual 3.0's at that price are the ex police poverty spec cars.

I would recommend looking at ebay, there are plenty on there, some excellent, and quite a few dodgy ones...
I will post a few up in a bit.
 
#9 ·
Hi all,

first post as well :cool:

I am also thinking of getting an omega, possibly in a couple of months time. I have learnt loads in reading this forum, as in what to look for and such when buying a new car, great place this, wealth of information and decent people :up:

One thing that seems a bit odd is that 95% of omegas i see are auto's, most people prefer a manual, myself included, the only auto i have driven is my old dear's fiesta and i found it to be unresponsive and sluggish, compared to a manual.

Im not against auto's and tbh wouldnt mind a good one, i just havent driven one yet. Would i be pleasantly suprised by the difference between my mother's two year old ford fiesta and say a 97/98 omega ? with that many auto omegas out there, i can only imagine they must be a fine drive.

Sorry for the thread hijack but it's along the same lines, sort of :Cool2:
 
#10 ·
dudester32 said:
Hi all,

first post as well :cool:

I am also thinking of getting an omega, possibly in a couple of months time. I have learnt loads in reading this forum, as in what to look for and such when buying a new car, great place this, wealth of information and decent people :up:

One thing that seems a bit odd is that 95% of omegas i see are auto's, most people prefer a manual, myself included, the only auto i have driven is my old dear's fiesta and i found it to be unresponsive and sluggish, compared to a manual.

Im not against auto's and tbh wouldnt mind a good one, i just havent driven one yet. Would i be pleasantly suprised by the difference between my mother's two year old ford fiesta and say a 97/98 omega ? with that many auto omegas out there, i can only imagine they must be a fine drive.

Sorry for the thread hijack but it's along the same lines, sort of :Cool2:

management executives, not private cars, hence the Auto gearboxes.

The Auto on the Omega is not cutting-edge technology but is of a reasonably modern design (4 speed, ECU controlled, adaptive etc), quite reliable and almost maintenance free (oil change not frequently required). They are not as smooth-shifting as new BMWs or Audi’s but they are quite pleasant to drive so all-in-all a very successful implementation

The manual gearbox on the other hand is also reliable but is only just about OKeeesh in term of supportiveness/driver-appeal, sort of a bit vague.

So while both are reasonable all-around solutions, Auto drivers don’t expect much in the way of fun out of their gearboxes and are therefore happy with their Autos, while manual drivers are likely to expect a bit of quick-and-precise sporty shifting and may find it disappointing. That was my experience anyway…
 
#11 ·
The full text again (sorry):

I like manuals too, but I have an Auto… Most Omegas started their life as middle-management executives, not private cars, hence the Auto gearboxes.

The Auto on the Omega is not cutting-edge technology but is of a reasonably modern design (4 speed, ECU controlled, adaptive etc), quite reliable and almost maintenance free (oil change not frequently required). They are not as smooth-shifting as new BMWs or Audi’s but they are quite pleasant to drive so all-in-all a very successful implementation

The manual gearbox on the other hand is also reliable but is only just about OKeeesh in term of supportiveness/driver-appeal, sort of a bit vague.

So while both are reasonable all-around solutions, Auto drivers don’t expect much in the way of fun out of their gearboxes and are therefore happy with their Autos, while manual drivers are likely to expect a bit of quick-and-precise sporty shifting and may find it disappointing. That was my experience anyway…
 
#13 ·
Welcome to this forum! This is a great resource for keeping your Omega running in good condition as cheap as possible. We are lucky to have many experts in different fields here, willing to give advice, and who don't 'look down' on those of us who are not so clued up. We also have a great moderator (Laidback66 - himself one of the experts) who deletes any of my posts which he disagrees with :p

So, any queries that you can't find the answer to, ask away :)
 
#14 ·
If I knew then what I know now, I wouldn't bother.
Far too complicated, cheap parts, unreliable electrics, poor quality plastics, need I go on?
Better off getting a Carlton or Senator, mate!

Nah, I like driving mine, but too many dodgy electrics to have any cash to spend on mods!

HID's are fantastic, cruise is good, mpg not bad (auto Elite estae fully loaded with the biggest drum kit you're ever likely to see!) getting 25-30 on a run. Leccy seats/mirrors are a real boon, and the bum warmers (when they work) are just pure luxury!
 
#16 ·
I wont be getting one for a couple of month's yet, as the mondy is ok just now (and the wife knows it:rolleyes: ) i also have money tied up in other things for a couple of months (the wife knows this also :rolleyes: ) so i cant justify getting a new motor just now, but thanks for the heads up Kev25v6 :up:


Really fancy an omega though:Cool2: I have know clue when it comes to mechanics, so im glad i found this forum. Through just reading this forum with the how to's and other member guides, i know what to look for when buying an omega, and if simple problem's come up, with these guides and other members threads i am now semi-armed, and prepared to have a blast at simple mechanics, though tbh cam and pretensioners would be beyond me just now, even with the very well written and illustrated how to's, but you need to start somewhere though, so the omega will be my introduction to diy mechanics, and i look forward to it :Cool2:


Have already made up my mind on the omega i want, 2.5 v6 elite (l eather ) late 97/8 onwards, prepared to fall back to a cdx v6 leather if i cant find an elite i like though, less than a 100,000 on the clock and rust free, i know the later model ( face lift i think ) has better anti corrosion, but am only looking to spend a couple of grand at the most, including budgeting for a cam-kit job, so that model might be out my price range, but i prefer the earlier interior anyway.

Looking on ebay and seeing what the members sell thier cars for here, i think i should manage to get what i want.

Before finding this place i knew i wanted an omega, but had no idea's of the pitfalls that went with buying one, but after coming here and reading the how to's and most threads on here, i am looking forward to owning one even more, its seems that any problem yet encountered with them, has been resolved one way or another within this forum, and the help to other members has been amazing to read. The cambelt party, the loaning of locking kits through the post, people getting other members quality parts at trade. Top site lads (and lasse's) well done. :high5:
 
#17 ·
to be honest, when you do take the plunge, I would personally keep the mondy on the road whilst you fix things like rocker covers, breathers, timing belt etc. so that there is no pressure to get the job fixed quickly or else be carless. Other than that, make sure all the toys work - especially on the elite. Most other stuff is covered in the buyer's guide already. Once the known weaknesses are checked and addressed as appropriate, I think they're nice motors for the money. Not sure if the replacement exhaust I had fitted is contributing, but mine sure does sound nice above 4k RPM :D
 
#18 ·
lol Sounds2k, you read my mind.

Im defo keeping the mondy at the very least till i know the belt/tensioners, can be verified by reciept or replaced and done by my fathers mechanic, who is a top bloke and good mechanic. Probably keep it longer just in case:Cool2:


If it needs done i'll get the water pump done at the same time, and im sure i read something by ronald about breather's as well, relating to the main reason that the rockers go, build up in pressure or something, that leaves the oil no where else to go, so they need cleaned out as a precaution, will reread that again though.


After reading the how-to's i'll also check some of the sensor's, and make sure they are clean and working fine, and any other small jobs's i may be capable of, such as filters, bulbs on dash etc.... hopefully i can manage some of the above myself.


Thanks for the advice btw Sounds2k :Cool2:
 
#19 ·
Oh have got a nice CDX vectra V6 for sale (much better fuel economy and easier to work on)- new cambelt and rollers fitted 500 miles ago 67k on it spot on car full leather the lot.
Email:v6man54deg@yahoo.co.uk

Just drive it in reverse and its rear wheel drive!!!!!

Robster_1981 said:
Hi peeps

this is my first post on here, so go easy
i'm on the lookout for an omega and just wanted some opinions/advice?

I'm thinking of a 2.5 as i've been told the 3.0 is much more thirsty
would like a manual, but what are the auto's like?
not too fussed whether it's a saloon or estate, but what spec is best to go for? i'm thinking CD or above

and as for mileage, how far can they go if treated well?
i'm on a tight budget :cry: but have seen lots around for between 500-1000 with anything upwards of 100k on

p.s. would go for a vectra v6, but i've wanted something with rwd for ages

thanks :Cool2:
 
#20 ·
to be honest I would go for the 3.0 as I found my previous 3.0 MV6 better on the fuel than my 2.5 elite, sounds strange but very true. MV6 used to average 17.9MPG, the Elite averages 17.1MPG so the fuel computer says. The MV6 is an impressive piece of kit, but I like the extra toys the Elite has, however I am almost certain my elite is MV6 spec but with the added memory seats, rear blind and bose audio system, as it has the MV6 body kit and rear spoiler as well as the lower suspension, and the big fat 235.45.17 tyres.
 
#22 ·
hi ,
if you know a good mechanic who could go with you try the auction. i have seen loads with history (ex fleet) you will get a later model for your money. beware at auctions though for old dogs. you really do need to know what you are looking for..like wise snoop around the back of local car dealers and see if they have taken any in px (not just vx dealers.) you might come up trumps. good luck hope you find the right car. i would go for the 3ltr. i have a 2.5 myself and love it however i thought i would see better mpg but i dont!!!
 
#23 ·
You can Have mine for £1200.00 98 Elite all the Toys, MOT'd untill November 06, Taxed for a further 5 months, 103k on the Clock.

No Rust, but does need the drivers side rocker gasket replaceing (I've alocated that for Easter Bank Hoilday ) and the Drivers Heated Seat dosen't work ( Find me one that does ) and about due for one offside front tyre (Also going to replace that shortly)

All electrics work except seat, no knocks or rattles :Cool2:

And btw welcome to the forum
 
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