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Hi all....

Have a cambelt change due in 4k miles and starting to prep... Have searched around but cannot find a How2 for the cambelt change

Can anyone point me in the right direction or is someone planning to do a How2?
 
R

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There is a great How2 by Marks DTM Calib for stripping down in preparation.

Do NOT try this job without a locking kit. They are cheap enough, see my other posts.

Lastly, don't wait till that 4k is up. You may be sorry. If it is due then, do it now. Better late than too late!

If you need any advise on the actual cambelt change then ask away. There are plenty on here, including me, that have done this job. It is not as bad as you think, but does require accuracy and a lot of care. Rush this one and bye-bye engine.

Without plugging myself, I am currently negotiating with the manufacturers of these belt kits to get a good deal. I should, in about a weeks time, be able to supply them for £59.99 + postage.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
welcome to the forum
Finley, you cheeky boy!

Read Marks How2, and as you say, excellent work!

I have just ordered the kit (the SP you told us all about :Cool2: )

Mainly what I'm after is when you get to the belt, what the best practice is for changing it really some sort of walkthrough from looking at the belt to putting the cover back on... I know you chaps all know your s*** just wondered if someone could pull it all together...

:bananasmi
 

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The setting/locking Kit will have detailed instructions for fitting the belt and tensioners.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi, should be cambelt changing this weekend, got my friend coming over to kindly lend a hand sorting the coolant issue...

Ok, I have ordered a cam locking kit, have pm'd Geffd for a cambelt kit and will get a water pump

Main questions:
Should I opt for a genuine Vx water pump?

Are there any other parts/tools I will need for this job?

Are there any common do's/dont's or anything to look out for?

Cheers guys!
 

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I got a genuine one - cheap enough so might as well.

Have a look at my how2 various threads and they might help you. Keep a good selection of torx sockets around and you'll be fine
 
R

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How 2 change the actual timing belt

The best advise I can offer here is to take your time. Have a small mirror handy to set the crankshaft pulley timing marks.

Once you are down to the actual belt cover off. Try and do this:

Turning the crankshaft CLOCKWISE only, get to just before TDC with the timing marks on the cams coming upto their marks on the backplate (you may be 180 degrees out, so just go around again) then fit the crank locking tool.

Next, starting with cams 3&4, using the timing tool, set the timing using the lower pulley so that 3&4 are spot on. Basically, if the timing mark on the cams are after the ones on the tool, you need to turn the lower pulley one way and if they are before the mark you turn it the otherway. Each time you adjust this, you need to remove the timing tool and crank lock, then turn the crank 720 degrees (2 complete turns) and start again. You keep doing this until cams 3&4 are spot on.

Next, repeat for cams 1&2 but using the upper pulley this time.

I know this is boring and seems pointless, but until the timing is spot on you won't be able to insert the cam locking tools.

OK. Once that is all set, get the crank to just before TDC again and put on the locking tool.

Now, whilst very slowly turning the crank try and insert the two wedges - Red on 1&2, Green on 3&4. This is not as easy as you think. DO NOT FORCE THEM or use a hammer. At this point it is OK to go back and forth slightly to get them in, but do not use force. You may well have to give up, go round 720 degrees and try again. This can take dozens of goes, but eventually you will get it.

Having done that, take a break and have a coffee. Then look very carefully and make sure the wedges are in, the crank is locked to the water pump and you have the correct belt, tensioner and bolts ready.

Now you can cut the old belt if you want, but that isn't really necessary. Just remove the bolt in the centre of the top pulley and the same on the lower pulley. Slacken the bolt on the tensioner too and you should now be able to ease the old belt off.

Once done, remove the lower pulley completely with its backing spacer.

Next remove the tenioner backplate with the tensioner and upper pulley with its backing spacer.

Clean everything up carefully, but being careful not to accidentally remove the wedges or disturb the crankshaft lock.

OK, reassembly.

Put on the new tensioner with backplate. Now remove the upper pulley and spacer.

Look at the new belt. Observe the direction arrows which should point from left to right when fitted.

Start at the crankshaft pulley and line up the belt with the marks on the belt and pulley (HANDY MIRROR JOB). Holding the belt upwards, insert the wedge between the belt and left side of the case.

Now feed the belt over the tensioner and up onto cams 1&2. The white marks on the belt should line up with the backplate marks.

Next make some slack downwards where the upper pulley will go and continue onto cams 3&4 making sure the white marks line up with the backplates as well.

Now, the home run. Make absolutely sure the crankshaft pulley mark is still aligned with the belt mark. If so pull the belt up to the left to keep it taught, and feed the lower pulley with its spacer into poistion and hand tighten the bolt.

Again check the crankshaft marks and belt.

Lastly, insert the upper pulley with its spacer over and down onto the belt and insert its bolt, hand tightening.

Now. CRITICAL POINT.

Remove the crankshaft wedge - Not the crankshaft lock or cam wedges.

Look very very carefully at the belt and follow its path around, ensuring that all those white stripes are correctly lined up with the appropriate marks for crankshaft pulley and cams. This is where that mirror is very handy.

When you are 100% satisfied that the belt is in the correct position, tighten all the bolts to their correct torque settings, then remove the two cam wedges and turn the crank 720 degrees. The white stripes will no longer line up but do not panic, they serve no more purpose now.

Follow the locking kit instructions for setting the timing up again. You may be surprised that it will be almost spot on already. This is where you can perfect the timing or just get it very close. Depends on how patient you are and how good you want it. Rule of thumb here is that the timing needs to be within the width of the grooves on the timing tool at least. Ideal is smack bang in the middle of the grooves, equal distant from each edge.

Basic procedure will be to turn engine 720 degrees, insert locking tool and set timing for cams 3&4 using lower pulley. Remove tools and turn another 720 and repeat until timing is spot on.

Once all done, start the same process for cams 1&2 using upper pulley this time. Repeat until spot on, then check both timings.

If happy last job is to set the tensioner.

Follow the instructions with the locking kit carefully. Set it, check it, turn 720 degrees and check it again and again until it is within the given allowances.

Sounds a lot, but 30 minutes will cover all that adjusting.

Torque everything up and look very smug.

Lastly reassemble and finally start engine with baited breath.

Look astonished at the fact that it worked, wasn't that hard and the car runs as smooth as a babys bum.

Hope this helps. :Cool2:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Finley, what can I say!

Cheers for taking the time to write that up, its superb...

Mods, can you drop this into the how2?

Thanks again mate, excellent!! :Cool2:

:bananasmi
 
R

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Thanks. Glad you like it. I started writing it and got a bit carried away. It is actually quite good, even if I do say so myself.

I have copied it to the How2 section and hopefully it will help anyone doing the same job.

For getting to the cambelt, just follow Marks DTM Calib's How2 which is superb.
 
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