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Discussion Starter #1
A friend of mine seems to think that if the oil pump was to die it could have some kind of sensor to stop the car from starting all together? maybe by cutting off the fuel?

As i mentioned in an earlier thread, after driving my car to work (with some worrying knocking sounds) it died and refused to start. At first i though it had siesed, but when my mate put jump leads on it the engine was trying to turn over...when i try to start without leads it is as if the battery is flat...which might be another problem.

There is oil in it...but maybe it's not getting to the engine? The EML is not on and i do remember the oil light flickering while at lights when the car was on the "biting point" but during normal driving the oil light did'nt come on.

I'm thinking of taking it to a garage to get it fixed if it isn't going to be too expensive, seems i've just spent £400 to get it through an MOT and now it's worthless to sell as it is.

Any advice would be most appreciated, i do like my Omega...and if it survives this i promise i'll take it for a proper service! lol.

Thanx

Andy
 

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No mate - nothing like that on the omega, there is a switch on automatics - that will stop it starting if it is not in P or N - but if you have jump started it and it turns over that rules that out.
try charging your battery, check the earth strap



andy666 said:
A friend of mine seems to think that if the oil pump was to die it could have some kind of sensor to stop the car from starting all together? maybe by cutting off the fuel?

As i mentioned in an earlier thread, after driving my car to work (with some worrying knocking sounds) it died and refused to start. At first i though it had siesed, but when my mate put jump leads on it the engine was trying to turn over...when i try to start without leads it is as if the battery is flat...which might be another problem.

There is oil in it...but maybe it's not getting to the engine? The EML is not on and i do remember the oil light flickering while at lights when the car was on the "biting point" but during normal driving the oil light did'nt come on.

I'm thinking of taking it to a garage to get it fixed if it isn't going to be too expensive, seems i've just spent £400 to get it through an MOT and now it's worthless to sell as it is.

Any advice would be most appreciated, i do like my Omega...and if it survives this i promise i'll take it for a proper service! lol.

Thanx

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Crap...so it's gonna be expensive then. i don't suppose i'm gonna get alot for a non-running Omega...even if it has got 11 months MOT and 4 brand new tyres :(

I'll check the battery...but with the knocking noises it was making before it cut out it doesn't look good does it lol.

Thanx

Andy
 

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check with geff, he knows these engines as he worked at the vx engine plant, im only saying it could be this. if your battery is fully charged it would turn over slow as you might have a tight crankshaft, bearing failure. you can also check by removing the front sump, might reveal small amounts of bearing shell.
 

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andy666 said:
Crap...so it's gonna be expensive then. i don't suppose i'm gonna get alot for a non-running Omega...even if it has got 11 months MOT and 4 brand new tyres :(

I'll check the battery...but with the knocking noises it was making before it cut out it doesn't look good does it lol.

Thanx

Andy
Knocking noise by itself could be anything, including some loose bit that bangs on another - but if you are certain that it's metalic noice and coming from the engine, then this is not good - head problems (cams / vlaves) will typically cause the engine to turn-over easier (no compression), but in your case it seems that the engine needs a new battery just to turn over, and this does suggest lower-end problems which is not good...

As for the car, if major engine issues are confirmed, you can go down the adventureous route and try getting an engine from the scrappies and swapping it yourself, or if you have the space then break it up and sell the bits here and on eBay - this seems to be the most economical way to get rid of an old Omega these days.
 

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Hi mate,
Try and turn it over with a socket E20 and ratchet (you have to remove the air intake first) - if its tight - its knackered

If you can get the engine out and get it up to us (not that far from Birmingham about 75 miles) we could rebuild it for you - I have got a spare 2.5 crankshaft with bearings which are in excellent condition (might need a couple of new shells for your block -depends on the spec) but could rebuild it in a weekend - aslong as the block has no holes in it that is.
We do charge - but a lot less than a garage would do, and if you buy an engine off ebay - well, you don't know what you are buying & it will probably need re-building anyway.

pm jseaman as he is doing a how 2 on removing a 2.5 lump. he has just removed his and I rebuilt it with him.

email:[email protected]


andy666 said:
A friend of mine seems to think that if the oil pump was to die it could have some kind of sensor to stop the car from starting all together? maybe by cutting off the fuel?

As i mentioned in an earlier thread, after driving my car to work (with some worrying knocking sounds) it died and refused to start. At first i though it had siesed, but when my mate put jump leads on it the engine was trying to turn over...when i try to start without leads it is as if the battery is flat...which might be another problem.

There is oil in it...but maybe it's not getting to the engine? The EML is not on and i do remember the oil light flickering while at lights when the car was on the "biting point" but during normal driving the oil light did'nt come on.

I'm thinking of taking it to a garage to get it fixed if it isn't going to be too expensive, seems i've just spent £400 to get it through an MOT and now it's worthless to sell as it is.

Any advice would be most appreciated, i do like my Omega...and if it survives this i promise i'll take it for a proper service! lol.

Thanx

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanx for the advice and offers guys, i'll try a new battery first and my mate thinks we should try priming the oil pump.

Maybe i should have mentioned that before it died the left hand exhaust had been blowing at the manifold, had this fixed about 3 times but it kept blowing again...at first i thought the knocking noise was due to the exhaust getting worse, the noise is hard to explain...kind of a clattery noise? it seemed to get worse inbetween gear changes (car is a manual) and when coasting or if i revved it hard it would make a racket as the revs dropped.

Hope that helps

Andy
 

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There are 2 bungs on the side of the pump - under the power steering pump bkt - the lower one is the feed side - it is a self priming pump though- i would just try turning it over by hand first - then if it turns freely you might have just a starter motor problem.

andy666 said:
Thanx for the advice and offers guys, i'll try a new battery first and my mate thinks we should try priming the oil pump.

Maybe i should have mentioned that before it died the left hand exhaust had been blowing at the manifold, had this fixed about 3 times but it kept blowing again...at first i thought the knocking noise was due to the exhaust getting worse, the noise is hard to explain...kind of a clattery noise? it seemed to get worse inbetween gear changes (car is a manual) and when coasting or if i revved it hard it would make a racket as the revs dropped.

Hope that helps

Andy
 

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Jumping in here - do you need to take the pump off to get at the bungs, or is there another way?
Also, I took the sump off mine (same engine, and I think my oil pump's gone too, just rattled, light on, didn't die and still turns over OK) and I've not seen a sump with so much sludge in it! Is this common for V6 engines?
The oil filler cap was thick with mayo, but none in the sump - what's that all about?
I dunno, modern engines............mutter........mutter.......
 

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Yes you have to remove the power steering pump and the aluminium casting that holds it to the engine in order to get to the bungs. but the oil pump can stay on the engine.
You can buy all the parts for the pump from Vauxhall.

You can get sludge on any type of engine if the oil has not been changed regulary - and if the engine breather is blocked the blow by gasses can not escape so contaminate the oil.

check the vent housing at the rear of the 1-3-5 (drivers side) cylinder head.
When we stripped jseamans down yesturday - the vent box was completely full of mayo/ sludge and :turd . to remove it you first need to remove the 1-3-5 heat shield off the exhaust - so you can get to the 2 outer E10 bolts.

Use engine de-greaser on it.




Pedropirate said:
Jumping in here - do you need to take the pump off to get at the bungs, or is there another way?
Also, I took the sump off mine (same engine, and I think my oil pump's gone too, just rattled, light on, didn't die and still turns over OK) and I've not seen a sump with so much sludge in it! Is this common for V6 engines?
The oil filler cap was thick with mayo, but none in the sump - what's that all about?
I dunno, modern engines............mutter........mutter.......
 

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Hi Andy, sorry to hear about your problems. I'm working on my guide - about half way through the engine rebuild bits now and it'll be done by the end of the week.

Trust me when I say GeffD is the man for the job! He did mine with me a couple of days ago and made it all seem very easy indeed
 

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Geffd said:
Yes you have to remove the power steering pump and the aluminium casting that holds it to the engine in order to get to the bungs. but the oil pump can stay on the engine.
You can buy all the parts for the pump from Vauxhall.

You can get sludge on any type of engine if the oil has not been changed regulary - and if the engine breather is blocked the blow by gasses can not escape so contaminate the oil.

check the vent housing at the rear of the 1-3-5 (drivers side) cylinder head.
When we stripped jseamans down yesturday - the vent box was completely full of mayo/ sludge and :turd . to remove it you first need to remove the 1-3-5 heat shield off the exhaust - so you can get to the 2 outer E10 bolts.

Use engine de-greaser on it.
Many thanks for the info, Geff!
Will be in the garage tonight then.
It's actually my Vectra, but thought I'd join in the thread!
 

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Ok pedropirate, I've got a Vectra - actually 2 at the moment.

Had a think on your oil light problem and sludge.
when we stripped Jseamans oil pump off there was a load of sludge in the oil pump return just by the oil pressure switch - I could tell by inspecting the pump (and by all the oil leaks he had) that the oil pressure regulator was sticking on his engine - so as his engine was running with very high oil pressure - the oil managed to get through this sludge to the oil pressure switch. if your engine is running at normal oil pressure (regulator working) as the oil presssure drops at idle speed from 5 bar - 1.8bar - it could be the same on yours - sludged up in the same place.

take your oil pressure switch out and with a piece of wire try and clear it out.
You always get a bit of crap around the pressure switch as it is located at the end of the line - but if you have found loads in the sump - then worth a check.

Pedropirate said:
Many thanks for the info, Geff!
Will be in the garage tonight then.
It's actually my Vectra, but thought I'd join in the thread!
 

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Sounds like it's worth checking out!
Tried to get oil cooler out to check that, but realised that the heads need to come off, or one does anyway. I'm reluctant to remove the heads now, as I'm convinced that the problem has to be oil - related. Yes, I have head bolts, gaskets and locking kit, but that means more expense on new cambelt etc, and it's only done 3 or 4 thousand miles, and I'm not too confident of rebuilding the V6!
:shame:

But if the pump is fubar, then I guess I'll have to do it!:rolleyes:
 

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You can get the heat ex out with the heads on mate - plus you can re-fit the old belt as the markings will still be there




Pedropirate said:
Sounds like it's worth checking out!
Tried to get oil cooler out to check that, but realised that the heads need to come off, or one does anyway. I'm reluctant to remove the heads now, as I'm convinced that the problem has to be oil - related. Yes, I have head bolts, gaskets and locking kit, but that means more expense on new cambelt etc, and it's only done 3 or 4 thousand miles, and I'm not too confident of rebuilding the V6!
:shame:

But if the pump is fubar, then I guess I'll have to do it!:rolleyes:
 

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Geffd said:
You can get the heat ex out with the heads on mate - plus you can re-fit the old belt as the markings will still be there
I can vouch for being able to remove it.... but not for replacing it, thats tomorrows job :shame:

Geoff, the heat exchanger threads stripped on removing the nuts, nothing I could do about it :cry:
 

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Sorry to hear that mate, never known that happen - jseamans had done 120k and his came off no problem and it was the original as it had a gasket on it not sealer.

sophos9 said:
I can vouch for being able to remove it.... but not for replacing it, thats tomorrows job :shame:

Geoff, the heat exchanger threads stripped on removing the nuts, nothing I could do about it :cry:
 

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Geffd said:
You can get the heat ex out with the heads on mate - plus you can re-fit the old belt as the markings will still be there
I'll have another look at the weekend (crikey, this is going on too long!!!).

I still think it's a daft place to stick a heat exchanger, but then I think the dis-pack on our Meega was placed by a gibbon on crack!:grrr
 

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Geffd said:
Sorry to hear that mate, never known that happen - jseamans had done 120k and his came off no problem and it was the original as it had a gasket on it not sealer.
No problems, did everything I could BUT what I'm not convinced is that someone else has not had a go..... Just a hunch!

Any tips for getting it all back together? Whats the best way to get the plate back on, not a lot of room to work with....
 
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