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Hi everyone.

I had my Vectra (55 reg 2.2 SRi) serviced and mot'd last week and all went well, but they told me i need to get new rear brake pads and new rear tyres within the next 1000 miles.

Not wanting to get ripped off (and wanting to at least sound like i know what i'm talking about!:rolleyes:) i wanted to ask a few questions....

How much should i expect to pay for supply & fit of rear brake pads? Anything i should know about it...anything to watch out for or to avoid?

I drive approx 800 miles/wk for work (mostly motorway). At the mo i've got Avon 215/50R17 95W on the front (which they said they'll put on the back) and Federal 215/50R17 91W on the back. Will the Avons be ok on the back? And what brand/type should i get for the front? I don't want to pay a fortune but i want something that will last a decent time. I can't remember what i paid for the tyres last time or how long they've lasted...its been a while though.

Thanks for your help :smile
 
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brakes n tyres last depending on how u drive mate theres no certain amount of miles they last

ur brake pads on the rear are easy enuff to replace ur self, i did my front brakes on my corsa myself so if there simular to myn then its jus a simple job of jackin ur car up & takin the wheel off, when u have done that theres 2 bolts on the back of the caliper take them off and the caliper will come off, then take a long silver clip of that holds the pads in place, simply slide the pad out and press the caliper slave arm in to free the other pad then its a reverse job to aboveto but new pads in, thats how easy it was for me to do my corsa anyway, also a set a pads for my corsa only cost me £13 go to a garage and they will charge u anything over £60 to do a 5minute job
 

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Try camskill or blackcircles (in google)for your tyre prices, +£10 ea for fitting. Any branded budget tyres on the front will be adequate in my experience, the Avons are not the most expensive anyway.
my yoki Parada II's might get 12k! on the front.
edit not sure about the 55 model..........Pads
 

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rear pads, the caliper piston will have to be wound in, and on most cars rear pads cost more than front pads
Ideally you'll need a piston re-wind tool with the correct adaptor, although you can use large long-nosed pliers, but it can be tricky applying the correct amount of pressure as you turn - too much and you could cross-thread the piston.
 

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Change the tyres for 225/45/17 (as per the alternate size mentioned in the handbook).

There is a larger choice available of the 225/45/17 size than there is of the 215/50/17 size, and thus will be cheaper.

I've currently got 225's on the front of mine and when the rears wear down I shall be replacing the 215's for 225's as well.


No need to inform your insurance company either as its suggested in the handbook that this size tyre can be fitted. The only thing to remember is that you must have the same sized tyres on the same axles.
 

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lots of spinning potential:think
Change the tyres for 225/45/17 (as per the alternate size mentioned in the handbook).

There is a larger choice available of the 225/45/17 size than there is of the 215/50/17 size, and thus will be cheaper.

I've currently got 225's on the front of mine and when the rears wear down I shall be replacing the 215's for 225's as well.


No need to inform your insurance company either as its suggested in the handbook that this size tyre can be fitted. The only thing to remember is that you must have the same sized tyres on the same axles.
 

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you should always put the best tyres on the back as if you were to suffer a blow out you are better off getting a front wheel blow out than a rear wheel blow out
I prefer a rear wheel tyre blow out,but then I have not yet had a blow out on a front wheel drive car.
A front tyre blow out on an RWD is much worse than a back tyre going. Jerry
 

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you should always put the best tyres on the back as if you were to suffer a blow out you are better off getting a front wheel blow out than a rear wheel blow out
sorry fella but nonsence.you lose a front tyre on a front drive car at speed and your in the ****.a back end blow out is far more controlable.
 

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Just had a quick read through. Im not 100% but the rear brakes have the hand brake inside the disc so you dont need a 'winding in' tool. Someone correct me if im wrong, ta.
The OP's car is a Vectra-C. The handbrake uses the same pads as the footbrake. No inner hub on these.

Also with the Vectra-C you WILL need to wind the brake piston back in on the rear brake caliper.
 
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