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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, first post.
I've had an epic few weeks my Insignia, which have cost me nearly 3k.
And today the key broke and I lost the blade. I was stuck in front of an ambulance bay at the hospital so got roadside assistance out, no joy there. I then called a locksmith who has made me a key that works the engine but doesn't seem to the lock the doors. I can't get him back out now but he is blaming the roadside guy, saying he must have messed with the fuses. They of course deny this.
Any suggestions? Really appreciate any advice.
 

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I don't 100% follow who did what or how they made a new key blade/built a working ignition key :confused:
But... There are three parts to a key.. 1) The blade that activates the lock; 2) The transponder chip that 'enables' the engine; 3) A radio-transmitter that does door lock/unlock. 1 and 2 don't depend on 3. 3 doesn't depend on 1 and/or 2.

The radio-transmitter part doesn't seem to be working - could be as simple as a missing/mis-fitted/flat battery in the key.
If the locking/unlocking is working from the door buttons, it's not likely to be a fuse.

I *think* there is also a method for 'matching' the key to the car for lock/unlock.... I don't recall where I saw it .... Someone will be along soon to tell me I'm wrong... or tell you how it's done.
 
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It states in the car booklet ( If it is the battery). That after replacing the battery,unlock the door with the key in the driver's door lock. The radio remote control will be synchronised when you switch on the ignition.
 

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It states in the car booklet ( If it is the battery). That after replacing the battery,unlock the door with the key in the driver's door lock. The radio remote control will be synchronised when you switch on the ignition.
That sounds like the process I saw.... but I think you also need to press the buttons on the key while the ignition is on or something like that to complete the process.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I don't 100% follow who did what or how they made a new key blade/built a working ignition key :confused:
But... There are three parts to a key.. 1) The blade that activates the lock; 2) The transponder chip that 'enables' the engine; 3) A radio-transmitter that does door lock/unlock. 1 and 2 don't depend on 3. 3 doesn't depend on 1 and/or 2.

The radio-transmitter part doesn't seem to be working - could be as simple as a missing/mis-fitted/flat battery in the key.
If the locking/unlocking is working from the door buttons, it's not likely to be a fuse.

I *think* there is also a method for 'matching' the key to the car for lock/unlock.... I don't recall where I saw it .... Someone will be along soon to tell me I'm wrong... or tell you how it's done.
I got http://www.kwik-pick.co.uk/ to come out to me. Decent chap, great of him to come rescue me, but I suppose he has also left me in a but of a quandary now.
He says that the recovery company might have messed with the fuses which is his 'best guess'. I have contacted the recovery company who of course deny touching the fuses!

Going off what you have said, 1) and 2) are working fine but 3) is not working. However, to throw a curve ball the locksmith showed me a device that was lighting up when he pressed the buttons, proving it was sending a signal. Also, it's weird that it is not locking manually either!

Also, just a quick note to say thanks for everybody who has responded. The car has cost me 3k in the last month and I really do hope I can nail this without it costing me any more money!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It states in the car booklet ( If it is the battery). That after replacing the battery,unlock the door with the key in the driver's door lock. The radio remote control will be synchronised when you switch on the ignition.
Stupid key won't even lock manually so this won't work either :-(
 

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Eh? The key operates the ignition lock barrel but not the door lock barrels?

Can't happen (?) Unless the barrels in either have been changed, or the key is boarder-line/worn cut that will/wont work in worn barrels.

Back to the beginning......

I (we?) assumed that when you said "but doesn't seem to the lock the doors.", you meant with the remote buttons on the key.... ???

Now you are saying that the key won't manually lock/unlock the doors? But will turn the ignition switch and start the engine?

From the start:
1) Does the key physically lock/unlock the door(s) ?
2) Does the Key physically turn the ignition switch?
3) Does the key start the engine without malfunction light(s)?
4) Do the key remote buttons lock/unlock or make any noise from the car - A: No ?
5) Do the buttons in the door arm-rest lock/unlock the car?
6) You lost the key blade - how was a 'new' blade made ? or Did the lock-smith do anything to the ignition switch?

Showing you a flashing red light when the remote button is pressed, only (maybe) shows that a radio signal is being generated by the key - it doesn't tell squat about whether it is transmitting a code or if that code is the right code for your car.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Eh? The key operates the ignition lock barrel but not the door lock barrels?

Can't happen (?) Unless the barrels in either have been changed, or the key is boarder-line/worn cut that will/wont work in worn barrels.

Back to the beginning......

I (we?) assumed that when you said "but doesn't seem to the lock the doors.", you meant with the remote buttons on the key.... ???

Now you are saying that the key won't manually lock/unlock the doors? But will turn the ignition switch and start the engine?

From the start:
1) Does the key physically lock/unlock the door(s) ?
2) Does the Key physically turn the ignition switch?
3) Does the key start the engine without malfunction light(s)?
4) Do the key remote buttons lock/unlock or make any noise from the car - A: No ?
5) Do the buttons in the door arm-rest lock/unlock the car?
6) You lost the key blade - how was a 'new' blade made ? or Did the lock-smith do anything to the ignition switch?

Showing you a flashing red light when the remote button is pressed, only (maybe) shows that a radio signal is being generated by the key - it doesn't tell squat about whether it is transmitting a code or if that code is the right code for your car.
Thanks for the detailed reply Mick and sorry if I am not explaining myself very well. Right, what I have done is this video which I think answers you questions 1) - 5)


As for 6) the locksmith did it at the roadside using my engine details etc, and had it connected it to a laptop running some software. It all seemed to be going fine until up to the end when he thought the software crashed. But then it seemed to finish ok.

My 13 year old lad made a mistake saying the previous fob had stopped working after the recovery guy had been messing about (but I can't remember if it had or not). Ultimately now the locksmith chap is blaming the roadside guy and roadside company are saying he didn't touch anything. And I'm left in the middle with a car that won't lock (and have no garage)! In fairness to the locksmith he told me to see what I can do and worst case scenario he'll do me a new key.

Worst part of this is I have to go to a funeral at the other side of the country on Mon night and at the moment have no car, because I cannot leave it in a hotel car park like this :(

Thanks again for taking the time to help me!
 

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Bite the bullet & get a dealer to do you a key , this is the reason i pay more money & use the dealer if i need a key . Heard too many stories like this . By the way i like your on the buses avatar ( Stephen Lewis )
 
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Bite the bullet & get a dealer to do you a key , this is the reason i pay more money & use the dealer if i need a key . Heard too many stories like this . By the way i like your on the buses avatar ( Stephen Lewis )
Cheers but I've bitten a 3k bullet this last month. In any case I think we've sussed it. The recovery guy tried to get the key blade out of the ignition (thinking it had got stuck) and he's damaged it a little so now the car thinks there is a key in the ignition permanently. It would explain nearly all what's going on.
 

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Cheers but I've bitten a 3k bullet this last month. In any case I think we've sussed it. The recovery guy tried to get the key blade out of the ignition (thinking it had got stuck) and he's damaged it a little so now the car thinks there is a key in the ignition permanently. It would explain nearly all what's going on.
Umm, still things don't quite add-up right.

The video shows 1)you can't remote lock/unlock, 2) You can lock/unlock manually, 3) You can lock/unlock with the centre console buttons. 4) I didn't see/hear the engine actually start - but it does?

As I said above, there are 3 parts to the key. Specifically, (2) the Transponder chip is built in the body of the key. In the ring around the ignition switch is a coil of wire that detects and reads the transponder chip when it's very near by - a few millimetres max, as close as it will be if the blade is fully in the barrel. A key blade alone with no transponder right near by won't start the car.

I have seen a trick where the transponder chip has been removed from the key body and 'taped' to the lock - something like this could explain "the car thinks there is a key in the ignition permanently".

If something like that is what's happened, then maybe the locks not working are a safety feature - the car thinks you've left the keys in the ignition and won't let you lock yourself out - I don't know that feature exists - I've never seen or read of it - but it's a possibility.
 

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Cheers but I've bitten a 3k bullet this last month. In any case I think we've sussed it. The recovery guy tried to get the key blade out of the ignition (thinking it had got stuck) and he's damaged it a little so now the car thinks there is a key in the ignition permanently. It would explain nearly all what's going on.
Are you saying the plastic lever at bottom of barrel is pressed down due to a bit of broken key ?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Umm, still things don't quite add-up right.

The video shows 1)you can't remote lock/unlock, 2) You can lock/unlock manually, 3) You can lock/unlock with the centre console buttons. 4) I didn't see/hear the engine actually start - but it does?

As I said above, there are 3 parts to the key. Specifically, (2) the Transponder chip is built in the body of the key. In the ring around the ignition switch is a coil of wire that detects and reads the transponder chip when it's very near by - a few millimetres max, as close as it will be if the blade is fully in the barrel. A key blade alone with no transponder right near by won't start the car.

I have seen a trick where the transponder chip has been removed from the key body and 'taped' to the lock - something like this could explain "the car thinks there is a key in the ignition permanently".

If something like that is what's happened, then maybe the locks not working are a safety feature - the car thinks you've left the keys in the ignition and won't let you lock yourself out - I don't know that feature exists - I've never seen or read of it - but it's a possibility.
1)you can't remote lock/unlock, - CORRECT
2) You can lock/unlock manually, - WRONG (the key does nothing in the door either)
3) You can lock/unlock with the centre console buttons. - CORRECT
4) I didn't see/hear the engine actually start - but it does? CORRECT - yes it does

"the car thinks you've left the keys in the ignition and won't let you lock yourself out - I don't know that feature exists - I've never seen or read of it - but it's a possibility."

When the roadside recovery guy came out, he thought the key blade was stuck in the ignition and decided to ram a large flat-head screw driver down the barrel. Indeed, it actually looks like it has been tampered with now. And my mates have said (without knowing the this) that the car thinks there is a key in it all the time!
 

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No Fred, he rammed a bloody screwdriver down it the barrel!
That would damage the plastic lever inside the base of ignition barrel , bit hamfisted to say the least :mad:
 

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I get the feeling the whole process needs doing again ( key programming ) it's sounding like the process didn't go correctly hence the strange happenings .
 
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