[adaptorman]

hi guys carnt belive it ,one thing after another just when i didnt need this to happern ,,basicaly i started to notice water in the oil and oil in the water ,which i thought may have been the oil cooler ,,after stripping and checking it ,it was fine ,so then thought is the head gaskets ,so today after buying some gaskets and oil filter etc ,thought id move the vechical to start strip it down , and couldnt belive it ,started first turn as always quite as a mouse until it suddernly sounded like a ball bearing runing around in the engine so i stoped it straight away and found loads of odd smelling white smoke pured out of the oil filler cap and the oil has lots of small metal fileings which i reckon maybe of the sheels or mains ,,,carnt belive it ,,,so im thinking it maybe better just getting other engine instead of stripping and haveing shells ,mains ,crack re grind, and doing the heads as well ,as i had them done 2 year ago and skimed as well ,,,,,,,what do u reckon ,,,,as ive seen a few cheepy v6 lumps ,,what do u reeckon

 

[Scooby88]

i would say new engine m8. price up the seperate parts you would need and price up va engine, see which one is cheaper. ( engine will be cheaper i bet)

 

[VauxMad_Kris]

would say thats bye bye engine. but you can get a 3ltr v6 engine for £200 to £300 easily.

 

[erroneusbogz]

but and i stress you could be just buying another lump of ****,id strip it and investigate first.then make your mind up from there.

 

[CavHopper]

Yep, bye bye shells I reckon.......

Strip it down for a look - you never know it might not be that bad.......

 

[adaptorman]

well only had a 2hours free so i ripped it out to check a few things first ,the headgaskets were spot on ,and still like new ,theres no odd water marks in the heads either in the bores,
then removed the oil cooler which i have to say is carroded in plces but i tryed blowing thew it first and no leaks showed so ill get the compressor on the go 2moz at a higher pressure to double check ,all the valves and pistons all look fine too ,,
so i carnt work out how the waters going into oil and vice verser,,
i will rip the sump and shells out to check those tommorow ,if there ok which im sure they wont be ,ill then check the small ends on the conrods ,,heres a few pics ,

 

[brikhead]

If it were me, and I had your mechanical skill, I would be rebuilding my engine. Who knows what condition a replacement engine will be in?
If you rebuild your engine, you know it should be as good as new.

 

[MutantCav]

If its was me...I would still be having the oil cooler from me anyway as that one doesnt look too healthy! lol

 

[adaptorman]

If it were me, and I had your mechanical skill, I would be rebuilding my engine. Who knows what condition a replacement engine will be in?
If you rebuild your engine, you know it should be as good as new.

true but mine has done over 289,000 lol and has a fair amount of bore wear ,so to save cost and time,its easyer with another engine ,

If its was me...I would still be having the oil cooler from me anyway as that one doesnt look too healthy! lol

im hopeing there should be on in either of the other other engine and engine blocks you have lol ,,,,,,,

 

[MutantCav]

True...but then wouldnt it be better to have a nice new one

 

[adaptorman]

yes have change of one for 50 ,,and ive chance of a brand new complete bottom end 3.0 for 550 ,,,but the pickups not worth that amount so a decent second hand one ill do ,,(im hopeing )

 

[MutantCav]

£50 for a nice just about new stainless oil cooler sounds like a decent enough price to me lol And you could collect it while you were here getting the bottom end tomorrow? lol

 

[adaptorman]

£50 for a nice just about new stainless oil cooler sounds like a decent enough price to me lol And you could collect it while you were here getting the bottom end tomorrow? lol

lol ive just got back from testing my oil cooler , and its fine ,,,,i just carnt understand were the oil in the water is coming from ,as heres a ist of what ive done and checked
no overheating
the oil level hasnt dropped over 2 weeks after traveling 500mile
water isnt pressureizeing or dosent seem to be dropping ,
did a full compression check
all the hg were like new ,all plugs are the same colour ,and no while spots showing like what happernds if u have a hg or head cracked
oil in the engine was starting to get milky but i new it wanted a oil change ,
cleaned all the breather pipes,,
and the engine run and pulled well with no missing or smoke
,,i carnt understand it ,,,

only thing i can come up with is ,i had a old engine on the rear which leaked oil over the engine as i last my header cap ,,,so could have got in ,evern after i flushed the engine ,it still appeared like a film of oil on top of the water,and the engine oil was getting more of a steamy /creamy colour ,,,

anyone have any ideas ,why....has i thought id coverd and checked everything

 

[Mat]

3.2ltr, you know you want to.

 

[adaptorman]

hi mat ,regards the 3,2 engine ,can i still use everything off my old 3.o lump to refit onto a 3.2 as i thought they were differnert, manifold bolt locations etc ,,,mind im not complaning ,this 3.0 autoo convert to manual and lighternd flywheel ,decated ,chipped, and then added a 1500 aircool gearbox ,is rapid ,lol

 

[adaptorman]

couple of pics of the engine ,removed all the 3.0 ecto stuff and had to reused all my redtop stuff ,,,just makeing gearbox adaptor ,as the other wasnt hefty enoegh ,
out with the old 3.0 remins

and decided to refit new hg gaskets ,,,check oil cooler, new rear crank seal and just added a spigit bearing due it been from a auto engine

then added the lighternd flywheel should make it a bit more revy then the std one

should be all back and runing sweet ,,,im a little concerd regards the timing as i remember my old engine was timed to marks on the top back plates and the crank pully with the pointer ,but im told these are only a guide ,and shouldnt be used as the proper marks and use a timing tool kit ,so i replaced the cambelt ,marking the puleys as they are with look approx a tooth off eack of the marks ,double checked and theres no catching ,so ,ill fire it up on the floor ,first ,

 

[erroneusbogz]

if i ever get stranded on an abandoned island i want you with me,id just make a raft.

your's would have a swimming pool,cinema,hospital and a lapdancing bar on it.top man

 

[adaptorman]

if i ever get stranded on an abandoned island i want you with me,id just make a raft.

your's would have a swimming pool,cinema,hospital and a lapdancing bar on it.top man

lmao id just split coffee all over here when i read that pal ,, heres a few of pics of the engine ,adaptor and the nice short ratio box ,, ps thing is this is so easy to refit 20mins all the engines out ,so decided to get it thown back in b4 i went out for a nice chilled beer ,lol

job done and the little rat rod is back ,,,great little scooby eater lmao ,,,who needs 4wd lol

 

[erroneusbogz]

that engine is in that van?.........................your a nutter:lmao:

 

[adaptorman]

that engine is in that van?.........................your a nutter:lmao:

yep ,and done a quick video too ,,over 100 in 3rd ,,,:eh

http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=rc3ott&s=1
small prob if anyone has a idea ,if i floor the thottle in 3rd underload ,it sort of holds back a bit then suddernly pulls well and dose the same again rather up the rev range and that dam engine ideiol it still up and down ,grr ,or if i hold the revs approx 2000rpm u can hear the engine is unevern /hassiant
tryed a maf,plugs,crank sensor ,and cleaned idiol control valve and fitted all new inlet and injection gaskets ,,,other then this its nice to drive

ps im tempted to try another coilpack ,but ive 3 brand new v6 vectra ones from a ecotec 1 from a 3.0 ecotec ,can i use one ,as mines a redtop not ecotec system???