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Discussion Starter #1
I was going to post a couple of questions about some work I'm planning for this weekend but events may have overtaken me.

The questions:
I'm doing the cambelt/tensioners/water pump and the passenger side cam cover seal.
(1) Is there anything to be gained by doing the cambelt before I put the cam cover back together? eg improved access?
(2) Would the cambelt job be easier if the car was raised on ramps?


Anyway, there was a recent thread about a front-end buzzing noise, see below. Driving away from South London today, I heard a similar noise. By the time I filled up at Watford it was a churning, grating noise from around the auxillary belt or the cambelt. My guess is the water pump. Fortunately there was no loss of power so I'm assuming the tensioners and cam belt are still intact. So as a precaution, I had it recovered home on the back of a Green Flag lorry.

I've been getting pretty nervous in the last few weeks about the warnings the old hands have been giving about the need to be sure the cam belt has been done. I bought the car 6 months ago in "pristine condition". I later discovered faults with the cam covers, brake disc wobble, driver's seat heater, disfunctional rear blind and Traffic master (just the standard list I guess). The seller also said that the cam belt had been done but I believed him less and less as the other faults came to light. Moral of the story: if there's no receipts - don't believe it; if there are receipts - half believe it!

Fortunately, I think I've caught mine just in time.




http://www.cavweb-forums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=83371
 

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1) Camcover removed wont make any difference to access to cambelt. Once you have all the intake pipes removed etc access is perfectly fine.

2)Car dosnt have to be raised to do the cambelt, it dosnt make it any easier really.

Cheers

Dan.
 

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Club Barge
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Hello,

The cambelt can be changed without the need to have the car on ramps. Mine was done facing out of my garage, not raised or anything like that.

It's the deck clearing that takes the time on this job, as the bag pipes (multiram pipes) have to come out, and the cover needs to come off in order to get to the belt itself.

I found when removing my bagpipes, I snapped the pipe off the vacuum resevoir, an all too common happening, but managed to fix it by drilling the hole out slightly, and forcing the pipe in. Seems to work, and the multiram seems to work also.

Personally I'd drain the coolant off before swapping the pump out, and have a large bowl available to catch any runoff.

I know what you mean about catching it in time, my old Vectra (now with my stepdad) started to develop a horrible noise from the waterpump area. I advised he drive it no further until I'd changed the pump and cambelt/tensioners!!! a very lucky escape I feel.


HTH,

James.
 
R

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Sounds like a very lucky escape and, by the way, congratulations on having the wisdom not to drive it any further.:Cool2:

For what it costs I say water pump with every cambelt change. It is a cheap and easy swap out, but if it fails? Overheating or a lot worse if it explodes, and they can.

As said above, level ground is fine. DON'T do it over a drain to catch the water as this usually results in bolts, screws, tools and keys ending up in the same drain!
 

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Lucky escape. Shame it happened as I was going to say drive it over here Sunday and I'll give you a hand (now I seem it done). Definately not a good idea to drive it now.

As said, I'll get you the belt and tensioners tomorrow, I have a spare water pump that I got last Saturday but didn't need, and I have the locking kit and the 30mm offset spanner for adjusting tensioners, all of which I can drop off, or you pick up from Bletchley.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Started the job tonight. The good news is that it looks like a badly frayed aux belt not the water pump is the problem. The bad news, I've been on it for 2 hours and I've managed to get the multiram and secondary air pipe off so far. Could be a long evening.

This car has now done 102000 miles and I cannot see any signs that human hands (or Vaux apprentice hands) have ever touched these parts before. So I will definately be changing the timing belt.

Oh well, back to the garage
 

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2 hours :eh

Keep up the good work, and keep us posted :up: The aux belt tensioner can be a pig to get off
 

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When I did mine I was very careful so I didn't break anything and it took me all day to do the cambelt. But I did it, broke nothing and got the timing spot on. So I think it was well worth taking my time.
 

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archermk, as I said to you earlier, its not as hard a job as you first think, although if you haven't stripped it down before, it may not be obvious where some of the bolts and clips are.

Good luck with it, and you have my mobile no if you get stuck, or post here :)
 
R

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Top man Jamie! I'll be around tomorrow as well, so PM me if you get stuck as well. DON'T BE AFRAID TO ASK! We won't take the mick. It isn't anything like as bad as you think, but as said there are a lot of plugs to go back in and it can get a bit much. You shouldn't have anythiung left over or unplugged at the end.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, I called it a day at 10pm after 4 hrs, I still haven't sighted the cambelt.

Observations so far:

Multiram removal is a bit like removing the inlet air bridge on top of the engine, the chinese puzzle again, I've no idea how I will find the route to get it back in.

That secondary air pipe across the front of the cam cover is a stroke of genius. I think someone mentioned having to push it in two directions at once. And the three rubber pipes attached to it were all vulcanised in place.

The pulley on the power steering pump is seized in place. I'll have to find a pulley puller tomorrow then work out how to get it into position.

The auxillary belt was in poor condition. It was probably the cause of the churning noise although I can just see some metal shavings on top of the water pump housing so there may still be a problem with the cam belt tensioners.

Finally, all of that was easy compared to the auxillary belt tensioner. Danuk said it's a pig to get off. Well oink oink! Who on earth dreamed up the idea of hiding the mounting bolts behind the cable loom. I'm counting skinned knuckles as I type, and I've still got to get one of these bolts out.

And as I said earlier, I see no signs that any of this gear has ever been removed in 102000 miles.

Tomorrow, I may finally get to see a cam belt! I'm looking forward to doing something easy on Saturday (changing the passenger side cam cover seal).

thanks all for your encouragement, I get the feeling that some GM German engineer somewhere is laughing his head off in retirement.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, I called it a day at 10pm after 4 hrs, I still haven't sighted the cambelt.

Observations so far:

Multiram removal is a bit like removing the inlet air bridge on top of the engine, the chinese puzzle again, I've no idea how I will find the route to get it back in.

That secondary air pipe across the front of the cam cover is a stroke of genius. I think someone mentioned having to push it in two directions at once. And the three rubber pipes attached to it were all vulcanised in place.

The pulley on the power steering pump is seized in place. I'll have to find a pulley puller tomorrow then work out how to get it into position.

The auxillary belt was in poor condition. It was probably the cause of the churning noise although I can just see some metal shavings on top of the water pump housing so there may still be a problem with the cam belt tensioners.

Finally, all of that was easy compared to the auxillary belt tensioner. Danuk said it's a pig to get off. Well oink oink! Who on earth dreamed up the idea of hiding the mounting bolts behind the cable loom. I'm counting skinned knuckles as I type, and I've still got to get one of these bolts out.

And as I said earlier, I see no signs that any of this gear has ever been removed in 102000 miles.

Tomorrow, I may finally get to see a cam belt! I'm looking forward to doing something easy on Saturday (changing the passenger side cam cover seal).

thanks all for your encouragement, I get the feeling that some GM German engineer somewhere is laughing his head off in retirement.
 

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Unfasten the cable tray that runs across the front of the cambelt cover then have a good look at the cable tray where it attaches to a bracket below the aux belt adjuster, you should be able to unlatch it from the bracket quite easily....slides rearwards if I remember correctly. Acces to the aux tensioner bolts is easy then.

All 3 pulleys come off with a bit of tapping from a hide or rubber mallet, tap in all 4 quadrants, just enough to move the pulley, not enough to cause it to tilt and jam on the hub....once it is un-stuck then some pulling / levering / twisting / tapping etc should get them off reasonably easily.
 
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archermk said:
Finally, all of that was easy compared to the auxillary belt tensioner. Danuk said it's a pig to get off. Well oink oink! Who on earth dreamed up the idea of hiding the mounting bolts behind the cable loom. I'm counting skinned knuckles as I type, and I've still got to get one of these bolts out.
Er, What cable loom? You already removed that right? If you didn't then it would be a pig.

Pulley? Squirt some WD40 on the joint then whack it with a rubber mallet. It will come off. Forget about a puller.

The passenger side rocker is a lot tighter to work in than this - and there is a bigger cable tray in the way which you will remember to remove won't you?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks guys, couldn't find the rubber mallet last night so I tried a hammer onto a block of wood, will do as you suggest tonight.

Yes, I've got most of the cable tray off, just a little snag round the back near the aux belt tensioner that I need to free up.

And Jamie (The Boy) has kindly lent me a cam kocking kit, I'm still deciding whether that spelling is correct.
 
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The little curved bit of the tray is held on by two lugs upwards into the metal bracket on the aux tensiioner bottom bolt.

You release it by pushing backwards and a bit of persuasion down. Once that is out the way, tensioner off, and belt cover off! Horray.

Then the hard bit starts.:lmao:

If you are going to be cleaning off oil and crap then do it BEFORE you put the new belt and tensioner on. Don't get all that crap on the new belt.

There is a magnificent How2 on fitting the belt written by someone really clever....... hmmmm. It is a good guide though and if you follow it you will be fine. There are a couple of cheats you can do if you just cannot get the locking tools between the cams. (Keep that hammer away!). If you get stuck then PM me a number and I will talk you through it.
 
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