Vauxhall Owners Network Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

Registered
Joined
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Insignia 2.0 diesel 2010.
Hope someone can help its doing my head in and sure I am missing something, Drivers windows stopped working completely no noise from motor checked fuses. All other windows work fine. Haynes manual says both front windows on fuse 24 and rear on 21 both 30a also in diagram is another fuse 55 @ 7.5a these are all fine and I get 12v at master switch and motor on drivers side. I have tried another wire loom 2nd hand and still same no drivers window but other 3 ok, I also plugged the regulator and motor from 2nd hand window with same results. Same with master switch tried the 2nd hand one and same results so thinking it very unlikely or bad luck that two doors have the same faulty part.

I think I have eliminated anything from the door pillow and all items in the car door , Ok so now looking through the wiring diagram can see a GN/YE wire coming from the Body Control Module going to the drivers door this splits off to the front passengers door after the junction these have an item which I am not sure about as in the Haynes diagram it does not give a legend, In the drivers door circuit is a symbol
Rectangle Font Parallel Circle Number
This is the only item I can see going to the drivers door that seems like it is solely for that door, each window has one but different numbers so drivers windows has X500 then passenger is X600 then rear X700 and X800 I have no idea what it is or even where it is and not even sure if it is this maybe where the fault lays any help appreciated.

Also I have google how to test the motor outside the car but could not find anything direct to this car and have no idea what wires to use as the block going to the motor has two large wires which I understand these to be live and earth and in fact do get a 12.5v ish reading from these again taking the fuse out of the fault and then four other smaller wires. So if anyone can point me in the right direction of testing the stand alone motor again much appreciated.

My thinking is that as the drivers door and passengers door both have the same wire from the BCM then splits off to X500 and X600 that the BCM is not at fault please correct me if this could be wrong oh and as the Haynes book does not even tell me where the BCM is that would also help. Thanks in Advance Mart
 

Well-known member
Joined
17,862 Posts
The X500 legend is I think just showing you a plugged connection, showing a male connector going into a female connector.
If I had to guess I would think it is the wiring plug where the flexible link from the door umbilical plugs into the door pillar.
Sure someone else will confirm 馃憤.
 

Registered
Joined
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Koicarkeeper I sort of thought it maybe just a bullet type connection however have had the area you suggest unplugged to plug the 2nd hand loom in and nothing in there or anywhere in the door loom as I have that out of the 2nd hand door, As this is the wire that goes to the BCM I guess somewhere behind the dash as I have found a video of the BCM which on my car I think is behind the Glove box on a right hand drive. Thanks anyways you have pointed me in the right direction such an annoying issue :)
 

Registered
Joined
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you so much Valer that explains a lot and I now know what the X500 is ( the terminal block behind the rubber boot between the door and pillar) also helped a lot to understand which wire is which. You have been a great help just need to find why the window doesn't work. Thanks so much
 

Registered
Joined
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Honestly
Not sure I am only a home DIYer have a decent knowledge of older cars but soon as they started putting Control Modules in I am lost. The motor is attached to the window regulator and the 2nd hand door I got I have both out and tried it by connecting to my wiring outside the door and got the same results. all other windows still work bar the drivers door. The wire shown on the diagram GN/YE comes from the body control unit to the master switch and motor I now know to be the Linear Interconnect Network Bus 3 (AER) (No 16 on the X500 block) thanks to Valers answer and diagram.

This I suspected but it also goes to the passenger window which works fine on both the master switch and passenger switch so not so sure it can be that but as said am a novice what I am now trying to do is see if the spare motor I have I can get to spin on its own say straight from battery, The issue I have is the pin outs on the motor, it has a thicker R/YE which is permanent live even with key out and the Black larger earth when these 2 are put through the metre they read 12.5v even with key out. then there are 4 smaller wires going to the motor one of these is the Linear Interconnect Network Bus 3 (AER) GN/YE. My question is do I need to introduce the Body Control Module to test the spare motor outside the door or is there a way to just use live and earth to see if I get anything ?

All help much appreciated Thanks
 

p0170
Joined
969 Posts
Scan tool is your best bet can you take pic of motor if there is a lin signal a scope you will need or take off passenger door card and compare voltage readings may have to jump lin signal from passenger to drivers side would need to confirm with diagram
 

Registered
Joined
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Honestly I am starting to get a better understanding with all the answers so far here is the full windows diagram as you can see the GN/YE is the BUS lead from the BCM to the motor and master switch is there a way to bypass this to test by jumping two wires at the switch? You can see in the diagram that the bus lead does break off and goes to the passengers door which works fine so my thinking unless there is a break from that junction to the switch or motor drivers door with that GN/YE from the BCM it cant be the BCM its self again this is a guess I have no idea what type of signal or voltage this wire sends. Thank you for all your help in advance
Rectangle Schematic Slope Font Line
 

Registered
Joined
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Should have added. Tested so far

Meter @ pin 1 and 2 on motor reads 12,5V even with key out

Pins @ 1 and 4 on master switch reads 12,5V even with key out

Checked fuses 21 24 55 all ok

If I hold the open or close on the key fob I get the same result as the switch passenger and both rear windows go up and down drivers nothing
 

Registered
Joined
5 Posts
Hi martco, i have a similar problem with my elite,the drivers door window/door open sensor/speaker intermittently stop working i have traced the problem to the plug in the door pilar,but i have tryed wd40/grease and tightening the plug pins but it only works for a while.so try to unplug the plug and plug it back in,you might have to do it a few times.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top