Yeah sorry, my bad, it is the Ground for the fuse box, either way it needs to be on there or nothing will work.
That could be due to the battery having been disconnected, that can sometimes fix lots of electrical problems!May I just add not sure if this is a coincidence or not but the volume knob on my stereo didn’t work before only worked off steering wheel control now this has sprung back into life as well thanks again👍
Good day, interesting pics, all visible. could I ask if there is a safe process for removing a BCM from a 1.4 Meriva B 2010 without it losing its memory. Already have glove box out waiting for new pollen filter element. I suspect BCM may have moisture issues as Locking system not working, parking brake on demand not working but operates when engine switched off and then when clutch released car will move away, can't open boot or put fuel in!! BCM has 3 blue plastic clamp locks and probably 2 small bolts, I am hoping to remove if poss. and dry it out. regards FKB.For those that are interested, this is how you remove and clean the UEC (Underhood Electrical Centre), with photos, on an Astra H and Zafira B. This is worth checking when you get Throttle Pedal Fault Codes or other weird Codes. The UEC is prone to getting water in it and can cause all sorts of problems.
UEC is located under fuse box, the plastic cover unlocks easily using a screwdriver in the red circled area, but first make sure you disconnect your battery first.
Then unscrew the three silver torx screws.
Unlock the two plastic lockers (one either end) and unscrew the 10mm nut.
Simply Lift out the fuse board top and underneath you will see a lot of pin connectors.
In my case I found water droplets in the rubber (look inside red circles). Water was clearly visible but check everywhere on it as water or damp could be anywhere.
Cleaned and sprayed Electrical Contact Cleaner over it. Do NOT use WD40.
Also check the underside of the Fuse Board (top part you took off). Remove any rust on the pins with fine emery paper, clean and spray, leave to dry then put everything back together.
Also bear in mind that you may not actually see water but it may well be damp and can still cause problems. So while its off its still worthwhile clleaning it, wiping it and spraying it with electrical contact cleaner (NOT WD40). Its actually worthwile taking it into somewhere warm and leaving it near a radiator overnight so its completly dry when you put it back together.
On a side note, I think I know how the water gets to the UEC. Some of it will come in between the radiator and light as you drive but I dont think thats the biggest issue. I noticed that if the car has been sat in rain and the bonnet is covered in water or you have just washed it, if you open the bonnet a lot of water drips off the front lip of the bonnet and hits the corner of the battery, it then bounces and splashes on to the front corner of the UEC next to the battery. Just something to be wary of if you open the bonnet and its wet. I usually lift it about 6 inches and wipe the front lip with a cloth or just my hand to stop it dripping.
Thanks to all for a great thread, and for the above in particular as I've been trying to figure out how to open the UEC for a while. I have a UEC that has no volts on F21, so isn't providing power to the ECU. Relay checks OK, and there is 12V across the coil connectors, but it doesn't operate when plugged in, so this suggests that the circuitry of the UEC isn't providing enough current to drive the relay. Car works if I bridge the relay connectors. I've ordered a replacement UEC off eBay and shall try the above transplant.Just wanted to add if your UEC main board is too far gone with water damage you do have the option of a transplant. This avoids the need to find a compatible reset UEC and the associated programming resulting in a much cheaper repair.
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This info might help someone and I promised these photos in another thread.
I managed to fire up my old Windows XP laptop with TIS2000, and yes, I see what you mean about exporting a full wiring diagram. Anyway, I managed to trace the fault to the brown/white wire that provides a switched earth to terminal 85 of the K2 relay. The wire measured 300 ohms between ECU and UEC, and when I checked it out it was corroded in the middle. Soldered in a repair, and things came back to life.To export wiring diagrams from the oem software, takes about 1-2h work. I mean a proper export. I find it a bit excessive.
Lots of the electrical systems run through the UEC, it can cause all sorts of seemingly unrelated problems if it gets wet.I had to do this emergency style in Cornwall a few weeks back. My clocks stopped working, they just went dead. Thinking it was a fuse I went and looked in here but it was pissing with rain so foolishly in a rush I just took the cover in the car with me and left the fuse box open never for one minute thinking that the water would get in from the windscreen wiper scuttle. Next morning bloody thing was throwing up ECU errors. I only had a flat screwdriver, a vice grips and some sockets but managed to take it out and dry it fully with my wifes hair dryer. Lesson learned. Still don't know why the clocks went dead though ??