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No I havent, I was too busy focusing on the fuse box as I did see water droplets between the fuse box and the connectors so thought lets dry that up first. Fixed the passenger headlight always on issue but brake lights and the gearbox stuck in PARK is still there. I will look at the brake switch but will that also explain the gearbox stuck in PARK due to not getting a signal from brake pedal? Just wondering why the ECU has a code stored for "No communication to UEC". This code was not there before so it is something new. Could the UEC and brake switch be faulty at the same time?
 

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If the switch is holding the brake lights on, the selector might not be registering as the brakes will be holding it, if you see what I mean


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Makes sense however... If i turn the key in the ignition and dont start the car, the brake lights will work as normal and my gear selector will work as normal.. the moment I start the car up, the brake lights will stay on and if i put car into park it will lock itself in park and wont come out. Also if i leave car parked up over night and come back to it in the morning, the battery will be dead. It was never like this.. only started from yestardays rain shower.
 

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I reckon the issue still lies with the brake switch, I’d change that 1st then see, as it’s the very cheapest option at about £15


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When it’s up and running, get the battery and alternator checked, and make sure all the earths are clean as well


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Hello

Have today checked the brake switch which seemed fine.. you push it in and it comes back out itself. I then thought let me open the fusebox up 1 more time and guess what I find?

On the 3 big connectors.. 1 of the pins seemed melted.. can you guys identify if that is the pin for the brake light switch or the pin that communicates with the REC as that must be the issue.

As you can see a before picture 2 days ago where the pins looked fine and now 2 days later 1 of those pins seems melted. Same on the fusebox itself the pin has melted.

I admit i did use wd40 to "clean" the connections up but I doubt thats the reason it burnt itself out like that as I was having the issue before I put wd40 there.
 

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Thats the pins on the fusebox. Can see 3 pins that are burnt up. Could it be water got into the fuses and someone how made a connection to wrong pins causing it to spark/burn? I suppose if i know what the pins are I will be able to tell if its related to the brake light/gear selector.

Might be the pins which make a connection to the REC and the brake light connects to the REC in the boot therefore because the connection is burnt up the REC connections stay on all the time leading to the battery being drained as well as the switch and gearbox selector not being recognised. Especially my diagnostic software is telling me NO COMMUNICATION TO UEC... It must be the issue.

Any diagrams for the UEC if anyone has?
 

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I’d be more inclined to swap the uec for a good 1, just have to make sure its the same ident, tech2 clear would be better


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So if I swap the fusebox for a good one, same identity as mine (GM13206748) and as long as the new fusebox is tech2 cleared, I wont need to program the new fusebox to the car? Will it be plug and play?

Or am I going to have to dismantle the old fusebox and get the board out and re fit it into the new fusebox?
 

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Still needs programmed, if the new 1 has been divorced it makes the process much easier. The ident is a 2 letter code in large letters, for the bottom section I’d go to a scrappy and chop the looms going in so it gives you an idea where the wires go


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I think the easier option for me would be to tear this part down and transfer the board over to the other fusebox as mentioned earlier in the post therefore making it plug and play rather than finding someone who is going to program the fusebox in for me or having to buy opcom to do it myself?

Have seen the same fusebox on ebay for £25 therefore I guess all I need to do is transfer the boards over?
 

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If i do what speedy uk did on page 5 then all i will need to do is get the board out of the my old box and put it into the new box and fit it all back and it should work fine without needing to worry about tech2 or opcom programming anything?
 

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I would prefer that too but I dont know anyone with diagnostic software here in Peterborough who can successfully program the new fusebox to the car + It would cost more as I will have to pay for programming and if it doesnt fix the issue it would be more money in the bin. Just seems easier to swap out the boards and hook it all back up. Maybe speedy uk can advice how easy it was to swap the boards out. Doesnt seem too hard just a little agro by the looks of it.
 

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Swap the entire thing otherwise you could be swapping the problem.
OpCom is not expensive, sell it on afterwards if you are strapped for cash.
 

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I really wouldnt know how to program thats the thing.. I have seen OPCOM on ebay: Vauxhall Opel Diagnostic tool Tech2 OBD2 Diagnostic OPCOM V1.95 INTERNET-SAFE | eBay

Will this be able to program the fuse box? I can do diagnostics and some programming like ticking boxes on some cars but I never tried on a vauxhall. I guess I am willing to learn if its not too complicating. How would I even do the procedure?

I am guessing you connect up the old fusebox first and get information from it and then plug the new fusebox in and copy the same information? Any videos?

Thank you for the replies guys!
 

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Took the fuse box apart. Can confirm, have got the board out and just waiting on the replacement so I can transfer the boards over and fingers crossed it will work without needing programming. Easier than I thought to be honest. As you can tell, opened it all up and found the issue. Burnt out most likely because of water getting in there.
 

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Can confirm removing the module by carefully prying the fusebox apart does work and got it started again without having to program anything. HOWEVER, I dont know why but now for some reason sometimes the car would work and start perfectly fine no problems and then at times you get in the car and turn the ignition to see no lights no power, you get out and thump the fusebox a little with your fist and get back in to see everything works again? Loose connection?

Thanks.
 
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