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Discussion Starter #1
What is the big metal thing in step 54 - can't be bothered to look it up!

Anyone got the head bolt sequence on them, I think I know it but want to be sure it's right.

Annoyingly I can only include 6 images per post so sorry for breaking it up so much

Step 43 - Loosen the jubilee clip to the air box



Step 44 - Disconnect inlet air temperature sensor



Step 45 - Remove bolt securing the multiram system



Step 46 - I didn't have a bolt on this plastic bracket but I'm guessing there should be one. If so, remove it



Step 47 - Once the bolts are off, ease the multi ram pipework upwards. There is still a connector attached to the back (Nearest the engine) of the pipes. It's easier to get at it when you have the pipework out here.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Step 48 - With the induction pipes out of the way you can start to remove the timing belt cover. Two bolts at the top and one at the bottom (Pictures a and b respectively). See step 57 for final bolt




Step 49 - Ensure all wires are removed from the cabling sheath. Note there are two bunches running down (Only one is shown on the picture). Move them clear of the cover.



Step 50 - Before you remove the ancillary belt, take note of the routing. Here are 3 pictures showing the route for all pulleys.

50a : Belt goes under the alternator pulley and up over the tensioner
50b : From the alternator the belt goes up over the water pump then does a backwards S shape under the crank pulley
50c : From the crank pulley the belt goes around the power steering pulley and back over the top to the tensioner



 

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Discussion Starter #3
Step 51 - Bit blurred I'm afraid but turn the tensioner pulley clockwise as though you were tightening it up. The pulley will move down and release the belt (See step 53)



Step 52 - Slide the belt off the pulley completely



Step 53 - Time to remove the awkward metal pipe running across the front of the engine bay, would probably be easier to do this before you start removing the belt. Get a socket on the bolt shown and a pair of grips on the rubber mount (Shown in second pic),this will stop the mount from turning.




Step 54 - Remove the connector going into the XXX by pushing the metal retainer down and sliding it off



Step 55 - Remove the metal clip with a pair of pliers then slide off the hose
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Step 56 - It's a bit hard to see but just to the left and below the big thick hose (rad hose), there's a metal clip which you need to remove and then pull off the pipe.



Step 57 - With the pipework out of the way you can see the final bolt holding the timing belt cover on, remove this.



Step 58 - The previous picture shows you the water pump pulley clearly. This is it being removed. You need to hold the centre nut with an open ended spanner and then remove the 3 small bolts holding it on.



Step 59 - Wedge a socket extension bar (or something similar) through the power steering pump pulley and crack off the 3 bolts. Easy way to remove them once they're cracked off is to hold a socket on as shown and then just rotate the pulley clockwise. This unscrews the bolts without messing about with ratchets



Step 60 - If yours is anything like mine then the power steering pump pulley will not drop away like you might hope. I gave it a persuasive tap with the handle of a lump hammer as shown.



Step 61 - You should be able to work the timing belt cover free now and hopefully it won't be as tatty as mine. Looks like the previous owner got a little impatient during the removal process!

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Step 62 - Next to the battery you will see a large multiplug with a cover on (shown in the picture). There are 3 clips on it which you should ease off with a flatblade screwdriver and then remove it



Step 63 - You need to rotate the top half of the connector and it will come away from the bottom so you can drop the wiring loom out of the way



Step 64 - I was changing the water pump so removed the 3 bolts retaining it



Step 65 - Retain the crank pulley centre bolt and remove the surrounding bolts so that the pulley and be removed. NOTE: You should have aligned the crank pulley to TDC before removal

Pic a: Shows how to remove bolts
Pic b: Pulley coming away
Pic c: What you leave behind



 

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Discussion Starter #6
Step 66 - I took pictures of the cam pulleys and where the timing marks sat




Step 67 - I also wanted to know where the cams were positioned because I was removing both sets



Step 68 - The keen eyed amongst you will notice I've already removed the cam retainers. This was a mistake, you should do this step first so the cams are held in the correct position and there is less risk of causing damage. Lock the cam shaft in place with a large spanner and undo the single bolt retaining the cam pulley on.

NOTE : When you remove the camshaft pulley you will see that it has a recess which the shaft locks into. Pay careful note to this and ensure you refit it correctly. The second picture shows the pulley with a slit in it and the shaft that locks into it.

The best thing you can do is remove the pulley and shaft then reassemble them as shown in the third pic



 

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Discussion Starter #7
Step 69 - Remove each of the exhaust cam retainers - work in a spiral pattern in stages to reduce the chance of damage to the retainers or shaft. Note that if you damage them you are supposed to replace the whole cylinder head. The pattern for undoing them is (standing in front of the engine)

1 2
5 6
8 7
4 3



Step 70 - This shows all the bolts removed and I am about to remove the retainers



Step 71 - Here they are, these are what hold your cams on. Note the front "A bearing" is thicker than the others. Don't mix these up!! They MUST stay in this order



Step 72 - Back to cam belt stuff then. Remove the 3 bolts holding the idler in place



Step 73 - If you have more luck than me then undo the torx bolt which should give you access to oil pressure regulator spool valve etc. Can't give you much info on this because, all the teeth decided to release themselves from the bolt-see the second picture


 

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Discussion Starter #8
Step 74 - Release the head bolts. They will be very tight and probably make some horrible groaning and cracking noises, don't worry this is perfectly normal. It is very important you undo the bolts in the correct order or you can warp the cylinder head. Again, it is a spiral sequence for undoing the bolts



Step 75 - Another blurred shot, sorry my camera was a bit of a let down but hey, it was snowing! You should be able to see the screwdriver being used to release the vacuum line. Also there is a blue and red connector in the shot, this needs to be removed too (My picture for thta was blurred also!)



Step 76 - Remove the metal clip holding the rad hose onto the metal pipe running down the side of the head. Pull the clip back down the pipe and slide the hose off



Step 77 - Remove the 8 bolts holding the oil cooler down



Step 78 - Once they are removed you need to undo the two large bolts holding the oil lines to the cooler



Step 79 - I don't know what the proper method is to get the oil pipes out the way but I just eased them up with my breaker bar

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Step 80 - Remove the 2 nuts that sit under the oil line bolts so that you can remove the oil cooler cover - you won't be able to get it out without removing them so don't even try!



Step 81 - The cover should now be free to come away from the car



Step 82 - This is the oil cooler. The only connections to it are the feed/return you have disconnected so it simply lifts out now (Shown in second picture)




Step 83 - Thought this deserved a shot of its own. Be sure to keep all the washers together so you don't lose them for refitting



Step 84 - The thermostat, I figured that seeing as I'm this far down I'll end up doing it anyway so I removed the 2 bolts for the stat

 

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Discussion Starter #10
When the snow started to actually settle on the engine I was forced to stop!



It's pretty hard going to do this lot in a hurry but if you work through it slowly then it really isn't that bad. I can safely say that the oil cooler isn't as bad as I was expecting and removing the cam belt is a doddle ... refitting it might be slightly more challenging though!!

Anyway, all being well there will be a third part to the guide next weekend finishing off the strip down and then I'll probably do a final one to show you fitting of a cam belt and any bits that are different when putting it back together (Assuming the head gasket has clearly blown and there are no other problems otherwise I'm ditching this heap of junk!!). I've put the pictures on this time rather than links as requested and when the guide is finished I'll stick it into a proper thread and you can do what you like with it.

Hope you all like it as much as the first installment

God that was hard work! :lmao:
 

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Omega Tank Commander
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7,722 Posts
Thats the inlet air temp sensor, the maf is just below it.

Can't see a step 54....although I suspect its the throttle pot.

Bolt untigtening sequence is the reverse of the tightening and on tightneing you start at the middle and work out...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ahh, inlet temp, thanks

"Can't see a step 54...."
What can you see? I've just finished posting everything

Spiral pattern starting from which number?
 

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Omega Tank Commander
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ep, can see it now, just edited my reply....

Put the cam covers back on as you will get water in the engine without the scuttle cover on.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ah cool, was panicking then!

Cam covers are back on already but there's so much frigging snow in my engine bay it's wet anyway!!!
 

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Club Barge
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Excellent photos btw, look forward to seeing the final how to :).

James.
 

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Its best to loosed off the water pump pulley and the power steering pump pulley with the aux belt on - this saves trying to hold it.

When loosening the oil pump regulator bolt - use an extension and have an assistant push down while you turn the breaker bar.

Looking at your engine James - think it would be a good idea at this stage to take the oil pump off - theres oil everywhere - classic sign of high oil pressure mate! also looking in the cylinder heads you can see carbonised oil - sticking rings come to mind - or lack of oil changes in the past!
To do this you need to do the following. remove crankbolt & crank pulley (not as easy as it sounds)
drain oil
remove sump pan
remove oil pick up pipe (that i imagine might need a good clean mate)
remove the E12 sump support bolts from oil pump (inside sump)
undo the oil pump
remove oil pump (lash in the nearest skip and have one donated from a kind omega owner)


JSeaman said:
Ahh, inlet temp, thanks

"Can't see a step 54...."
What can you see? I've just finished posting everything

Spiral pattern starting from which number?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Went to loosen the power steering pump pulley with the belt on and it just turned hence me removing it then wedging

Completely agree about the regulator, I was trying to do both those things

Figured it might be high oil pressure, there was just too much oil everywhere. I know the oil was like treacle when I got it so might not be sticking rings - anything I can do if the rings are sticking?

I REALLY don't want to remove that crank pulley but hey, if it's got to go it's got to go!

Thanks Geff
 

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Premium Member
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Its best to loosed off the water pump pulley and the power steering pump pulley with the aux belt on - this saves trying to hold it.

When loosening the oil pump regulator bolt - use an extension and have an assistant push down while you turn the breaker bar.

Looking at your engine James - think it would be a good idea at this stage to take the oil pump off - theres oil everywhere - classic sign of high oil pressure mate! also looking in the cylinder heads you can see carbonised oil - sticking rings come to mind - or lack of oil changes in the past!
To do this you need to do the following. remove crankbolt & crank pulley (not as easy as it sounds)
drain oil
remove sump pan
remove oil pick up pipe (that i imagine might need a good clean mate)
remove the E12 sump support bolts from oil pump (inside sump)
Remove lower alternator bolt / slacken top one and move alternator aside
undo the oil pump
remove oil pump (lash in the nearest skip and have one donated from a kind omega owner)


JSeaman said:
Ahh, inlet temp, thanks

"Can't see a step 54...."
What can you see? I've just finished posting everything

Spiral pattern starting from which number?
 
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