sounds like your sensor may be faulty, the carbon build up in a egr valve is normal because it reroutes exhaust gases back through the inlet. the oil build up in the intercooler pipes may be from a turbo seal leaking at the intake side

 

How did you get on with this?

 

Still a work in progress!! Had a house move so haven't been able to go much further with it.

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If you're seeing P0400 consistently I'd still concentrate on the EGR valve. Was it a genuine valve that you fitted, and a new one at that? Quite often I've seen either second hand valves or non genuine ones that cause no end of issues.

There isn't a feedback on these EGR valves, so the component that senses and flags the P0400 code is the airflow meter, if the airflow readings don't match the expected values for a given engine speed etc...it flags a fault. If the deviation is small enough that the ECM can't figure where the air is leaking off, it flags 'P2279 air intake leak' fault, however if it's large enough a leak that the control unit can figure it as the EGR, it flags P0400 instead. So in your case it's confidently picking up a large enough deviation of air to throw that DTC.

The -2kpa isn't an unexpected reading either, quite often can show this figure with the car ticking over too. The fuelling isn't adjusted in anyway based off the pressure readings until the actual regeneration process is triggered.

Once the regen is done, if the car is being driven to suit the system (not too many short journeys etc...), the DPF shouldn't be regenerating that quickly at all - so I'd suspect it's physically blocking due to something still going on with that EGR valve. Willing to bet it's relatively sluggish off the mark too.

Also to bear in mind, when you replaced the DPF assembly, did this then get reset in Opcom? The ECM needs to know a new filter is fitted so it can begin a new DPF strategy.

 

The egr wasn't genuine but was new. The dpf was reset when fitted. I have the original egr so may try to disassemble and clean it up.

The -2 kpa figure is showing when the engine is off. Now I would expect it to show 0kpa or 101kpa when the engine isn't running in line with atmospheric pressure. FYI I live at sea level.

My main issue at the moment seems to be a excessive build up of black sludge in the inlet. When I removed the TB the inlet had been blocked on what looks like the egr gas path that intersects with the TB. I'm puzzled as to why this is happening is ir due to a faulty egr/egr cooler, the dpf sensor giving false readings that are causing over fueling and this mixing with the egr gasses or an oil leak from the turbo or is it the swirl flaps that have been recently repaired.

At this point I wish I'd bought the VXR

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The manifold was full of solid black sludge. Tge red line shows where it was blocked.

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And she's not sluggish to drive. I currently have eml on and codes 227965 and the dreaded 04000 but there is no drop in performance. She's as quick as my mk4 golf gti 1.8t

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Both P2279 and P0400 are both reported from readings off the airflow meter. So there is definitely an issue whereby the incorrect airflow readings are passing the meter, and highly likely EGR related.

It's common to see these areas sludged up, as they are the channels for EGR passing back into the inlet tract, which meet the incoming air, which will always carry a marginal amount of oil that has been passed back through the engine breather system, depending on how heavily the engine breathes. So you get oily mist meeting exhaust gas/carbon, hence the sludge.

The -2kpa figure would genuinely be of no concern - its an interpretation by the ECM of the voltage coming from the sensor itself. The main thing is that the ECM doesn't adjust fuelling based off this reading until the point where the sensor data indicates a high enough pressure to meet all the criteria for the ECM's DPF strategy and trigger a regeneration.

I'd still say off the back of those codes and DPF symptoms that you have an airflow issue that is causing overfuelling, excess soot being expelled from the engine and premature blocking of the filter, I'd be focusing on that. I certainly have replaced non gen valves before now for issues like this.

 

I'm going to look at it in the morning. See what opcom is saying. Gonna get the egr and the TB off and have a good look at the state of that. Hopefully I'll make some sort of sense of it.

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Not been able to look at the car til today. ( the list of issues has increased with a squeaky alternator and only 13.0v comming from it.) Anyways whilst checking the engine I noticed I has 'lost' one of the egr to manifold bolts. I tried to replace it but it seems the bolt was cross threaded. I'm gonna look at that it the morning. I also noticed a split in my turbo to intercooler pipe. So I'll replace that in the morning and see what happens when I clear the codes.

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A split boost pipe will more than certainly be blocking the DPF prematurely, that's a good find if it's a significant enough split. Could well be the source of all your issues.

 

So the problem has persisted and has now got worse. The car completely stopped and needed to be recovered. I thought this would be the dpf but it turned out to be a build up of sludge had jammed the throttle body, I cleaned this and the car ran again although this time it has developed what sounds like a knocking rotation noise. More noticeable on overrun and is now a companies by a nice bit of blue smoke which is present at all times.

I've taken it to two garages who can find nothing wrong? ?

I connected it to opcom and usually u have some dpf or egr fault code but today they're not there but I do have p0621-1 generator lamp. Which is a new code I've never seen before what the hell is a generator lamp?

I've been told my issue may be injector related. I'm thinking it may be one or two of them but can't be sure.

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Generator lamp is relating to the alternator charge light, and is stored in the ECM as it has control over the charging of the alternator. Unlikely related to the issue however.

The injector deviation figures show how much fuel is being subtracted or added by the ECM to get each cylinder running at exactly the same speed to one another, in your case cyls 1&4 are removing fuel, cyls 2&3 adding fuel. The upper and lower limits for these figures are + or - 1.5mg/stroke, so yours are still within spec.

Depending on the mileage of the car it may be the case that bad spray pattern is causing the noise however, you could try and run something like a forte injector cleaner through the tank, or failing that next logical step would be to have the injectors removed and tested. Is all the service history up to scratch in terms of fuel filter change etc....?

This is all assuming, of course, that the noise is injector/diesel knock related and not something separate.

 

Diesel knock is something new to me. As I presume diesel knock is similar to pre detonation on a petrol ( bear with me im a bit of a diesel novice ) would I still get knock on over run if the injectors aren't being used (I assume this is the case) or am I wrong and knock can still happen on over run?



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Think I'm gonna need to get the charging system looked at as well.

I have had it refuse to start about 4 times in the last 2 weeks it happens if I turn the ignition off and then try to restart it not long after like filling for petrol. The engine turns and after 2-3 seconds it's as if I have a flat battery and I need to bump start it although it'll start fine after that it's getting like a lottery.

Honestly thinking it's gonna end up a spare or repair job and get a tourer to replace it.


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