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Discussion Starter #1
hello i am now the lucky owner of a opel zafira woohoo. after about a month the car started to throw up the check engine light the one with out the wrench on it. it had no real noticeable problems it did start to smoke white for about 5 mins. and it would go away. there is no power in first gear up to 2,00rpm i have a automatic transmission when i take off from a dead stop or go up hill the gas pedal is on the floor and there is no power. i had the code pulled a week ago and it was the only one set the tech erased it and it came right back on. i have checked this web site and many others on what it could be the root of the problem. i know the code is a leak in the intake system i have checked for leaks i can not hear any sucking of hissing sounds coming from the top or bottom of the engine i have checked the intake hoses going to the engine no sign of damage or leak i pulled the throttle body hose off and it had what looked like oil and diesel mix come out off it. i have not removed the EGR yet i pulled the MAP sensor and cleaned that it was caked up bad and i cleaned it and put it back in yesterday it was fully dry when i installed it back in after that i took the car for a drive and the code it still there but now the p0100 code showed up. in the hunt to figure out what is wrong with it and where it could be leaking i checked the swivel arm on the intake and the farthest one on the end by the battery was off the rest where still attached i lifted the arm up and moved the ball for the flap back into position and reattached the arm to it. i noticed a small puddle of oil around that one flap ball since i put it back on the puddle has seemed to slowly go away. i am waiting for a payback of money before i buy parts i have brakes planed and a oil change as well would it be best to just get a new MAP sensor and a new EGR at the same time and replace them or should i look into just getting a new intake set up and replace the full thing so it has new swivel flaps and still replace the EGR and MAP sensor. i have had no sign of the DPF giving me any trouble or any sign of a warning light.
 

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No power up to 2000rpm is because the car has gone in to limp mode (commonly known as Limp home mode).

P0100 Mass Or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction (MAF Sensor fault)

P2279 Intake Air System Leak Detected
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I thought the limp mode was no RPMS above 3000. Once it passed 2,000rpm the car gets up and goes like nothing is wrong. I plan on replacing the mas sensor map sensor and the egr valve here soon just waiting on the cash. I just had my wife start the car up so I can see if the swivel flaps are moving they move slowly at start up and when the gas pedal is pushed the move slowly back and when it's let off they move slowly back into the closed position. So they are working but I don't know if they should move faster. I am also looking at wanting to run a fuel treatment before my next fill up would that help any or Mack things worse.
 

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I have the 1.9cdti 150bhp in my Vectra and I put a bottle of Diesel treatment in my tank every so often, touch wood I haven't had any issues with my MAF, MAP, EGR or other sensors, although at present I have a seized water pump that I'll get road to in the next few days.

Limp mode its probably a mixture of your other issues your going to change, also the fuel filter car cause these issues, I had a friend who's car kept misfiring, changed the fuel filter and that issue went.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It does not seem to misfire even at idel it sits maybe 800 to 950rpm. When I take my kids to school inlet it run because I don't want to start stop it every do many mins. My wife wants to drive it 2 hours to her sisters on the autobahn I am worried of it going to runaway diesel. I been there done that with a citron c8. The picture is of the code scanner when the code got pulled last week not sure if that helps. Thank you for your help
90610
 

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Clean the egr i think that has to be the most likely suspect for the 2279 code and is the first place to start. Well i would anyway. The small pool of oil you are talking about . Is it on the top of the inlet manifold and is it around where the swirls are situated ? Because they could be leaking and that brings on the 2279 code as well

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #7
the oil is right around the bottom curve of the intake where the swivel flap is located where the arm connects to the swivel flap i have a feeling that is where the leak is for the code
 

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There is a temporary fix . Ive used this method and its still going strong.though. This is cheap. The alternative , if it is the cause of the fault is a new inlet manifold.

I glued mine with a two part epoxy. If youre going to try this method clean the area well and make sure the swirls are at the 10 oclock position. Also make sure to disconnect the actuator arm from swirl number 3.
There are videos on youtube on how to do it. My eml went out as soon as the epoxy was set and i started the car up.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I will get a picture of them tomorrow and post it here. If that is the problem would it be better to replace them with new ones and clean out the intake or just fork the money out for a new intake with them. Is it possible to just replace the swivel flaps while the intake is still attached.
 

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They can be glued in situ. There are aftermarket blanking plugs that bung up the holes where the flaps used to reside but the manifold has to come out for that. If its just one of the swirls thats leaking you could glue that one and see if it fixes it . Then you know the cause and perhaps gives you time to save the cash or consider your options?

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Out of the I think 4 if you standing in front of the car it's the far right one that has oil but they all kinda look oily it's the farthest to the right with oil around it. That is also the one that had the arm come off it
 

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As you look at the engine (battery on right) no 1 is on the left og the manifold. Does the arm still move freely and can you feel any up and down movement?

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I can't really get my hand or fingers on the arm to test for play. I did have my wife start the car this afternoon while I watched for the arm to move at start up idel the arm slowly moves to the 2oclock position and when gas is pressed it slowly moves back to the 10oclock position all four of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Oh I should mention this I did notice that the arm for the swivel flaps has the brass fittings on the arm and the ball for the swivel flap that came off looked in good shape. What I am thinking is if possible to buy new flaps I would want to try to remove the old ones while the intake is still on the engine and replace with new ones. I really don't want to blank them off.
 

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Yeah its awkward to get in there i know. I would take the connecting rod off altogether and clean up the area. See what muck / oil etc comes back and where.

Bill
 

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The inlet manifold has to come off to fit the blanks . Im not sure its possible to remove the flaps and replace them with new ones even on the bench. Thats if you could buy them separately. Generally you buy a replacement manifold from vauxhall or ebay etc and these come fitted with new swirls etc.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok I will try to get it cleaned tomorrow after my wife gets home from work I do have engine cleaner spray and some old shirts I could cut up for rags to clean the area.
 

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Aerosol type carb cleaner i used to good effect. Be careful with it around a hot engine though. Good luck.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I would let it cool first. I could have sworn I seen a replacement kit for the flaps thank you for your help
 

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I cant recall seeing a kit for the actual flaps only the blanks. Im sure you have to pretty much destroy the flaps to get them out so im not sure they would go back in unscathed.. i might be wrong though.

Bill
 
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