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I made a start today fitting the new cambelt kit to my 99 reg 2.5 V6. I have used the proper locking kit and made sure that all the marks on the cam sprockets line up properly when the crank is locked at TDC.

My problem comes that when i am attempting to fit the belt i CANNOT get the marks on the belt to line up properly on the sprockets and still have enough slack to fit it over the top idler.

I made sure that the correct two white lines on the belt lined up with the cutout mark by the crank. I then routed the belt up over the left pulley and got the lines to marry up okay with mark 1 and 2 on the left bank. If i then line the marks on the belt up with 3 + 4 cams on the right bank, i have insufficient belt left in the middle to get it any where near the centre roller. I also end up with a load of slack after cam 4 before it returns to the bottom roller.

The belt is on for rotating clockwise ie directional arrows pointing to the right , everything is still lined up and locked but i am at a loss.
Clearly i am missing something basic but what.
The new roller kit is exactly the same as the one that i have removed so that cannot be the problem.
Good job i dont need the car tomorrow but i definitely need some help.

Cheers Darryl
 
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Take a couple of photos Darryl. Something is not right here.

The cams are still locked where they were when you took the old belt off?
 

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Your starting in the wrong place - start fitting on the 1-3-5 bank cam gears (L/H) then route around the tensioner (make sure its loose) then the 2-4-6 cam gears (R/H) then route around the crank shaft - don't at this stage try and line the double mark up with the cut out - you need to get all the slack around from the tensioner side to the other side of the crank in-order to get it around the bottom roller.
when you have got it around the bottom roller - take all the slack back towards the tensioner roller and check that the double line is aligned with the crank pulley / cut out.
If you have the later block model year 99 (as in the pic) the bottom roller is higher up and bolts to the block-not through the oil pump - on this type its easier to fit the bottom roller after the belt is on - you still need to get all the slack to that side and then slack back to the tensioner and align the double crank mark

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Darryl Flynn said:
I made a start today fitting the new cambelt kit to my 99 reg 2.5 V6. I have used the proper locking kit and made sure that all the marks on the cam sprockets line up properly when the crank is locked at TDC.

My problem comes that when i am attempting to fit the belt i CANNOT get the marks on the belt to line up properly on the sprockets and still have enough slack to fit it over the top idler.

I made sure that the correct two white lines on the belt lined up with the cutout mark by the crank. I then routed the belt up over the left pulley and got the lines to marry up okay with mark 1 and 2 on the left bank. If i then line the marks on the belt up with 3 + 4 cams on the right bank, i have insufficient belt left in the middle to get it any where near the centre roller. I also end up with a load of slack after cam 4 before it returns to the bottom roller.

The belt is on for rotating clockwise ie directional arrows pointing to the right , everything is still lined up and locked but i am at a loss.
Clearly i am missing something basic but what.
The new roller kit is exactly the same as the one that i have removed so that cannot be the problem.
Good job i dont need the car tomorrow but i definitely need some help.

Cheers Darryl
 
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Yours is fitted the other way around. ie Anticlockwise because you have a 'd' type tensioner.

Remember Haynes book references are always the cars left and right, not yours. So when they refer to the left hand bank, they are refereing to the passenger side or your right as you look at the cams!

So, take that belt back off and follow this instead:

Starting with the crank, fit the lower pulley and fit the belt around that, on the way up to cams 4 and 3. line those stripes up on 4 and 3, then fit the upper pulley and go around that, or you could leave the slack for it and move on to cams 2 and 1, whichever is easiest to fit. Lastly fit it over the tensioner pulley.

Fit the top pulley if you haven't already.

Now your set of stripes should line up.

This ONLY applies to tensioner kits with a 'D' marking. If you have one with 'EA' or 'EB use the How2 guide for fitting.

Check it out Darryl. Should solve this one.:Cool2:

EDIT

Geoff, you must have been typing that as I was! It is because his kits is a 'D' type. (LOL)
 

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Sorry mate the D means the tensioner doesn't have a belt guide on it - you still start at the 1-3-5 bank what ever engine you have even on the 2.6 and 3.2. His problem is as he has a 1999 model - the bottom roller moved up to the block and there is hardly any slack in the belt to get around it - It's even worse on the none excentric ones!!!!(late model 2.6 & 3.2)

I know what you mean by left hand side - parts people work on sitting in the car - thats why its important on a V engine to use the firing order so not to confuse.
sorry to sound like a smart arse but if you get any 1999 models on saturday you will know what I am talking about - its as if the belt isn't long enough - they just fit!!! but you have to take all the slack from one side to the other.





RonaldMcBurger said:
Yours is fitted the other way around. ie Anticlockwise because you have a 'd' type tensioner.

Remember Haynes book references are always the cars left and right, not yours. So when they refer to the left hand bank, they are refereing to the passenger side or your right as you look at the cams!

So, take that belt back off and follow this instead:

Starting with the crank, fit the lower pulley and fit the belt around that, on the way up to cams 4 and 3. line those stripes up on 4 and 3, then fit the upper pulley and go around that, or you could leave the slack for it and move on to cams 2 and 1, whichever is easiest to fit. Lastly fit it over the tensioner pulley.

Fit the top pulley if you haven't already.

Now your set of stripes should line up.

This ONLY applies to tensioner kits with a 'D' marking. If you have one with 'EA' or 'EB use the How2 guide for fitting.

Check it out Darryl. Should solve this one.:Cool2:
 

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Lol, thats what mine is like (2000 model, last of the 2.5's....)

All the ones on Saturday are the earler units (i.e. metal oil filter etc)
 

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well you are lucky there mark - you are going to be busy with all those belts.
D type tensioners are the original ones without the belt guide on the tensioner roller - when they fail they eat your timing cover. i know they were fitted upto 1996 model.
the later ones had a belt guide so when they fail they are not so hungry and dont eat the timing cover - think they were E or later EA

EB is the larger type for 99 onwards

There was also the very last type for the later 2.6 & 3.2 - this has location dowels in the back of it and a none excentric bottom roller - this was called the NET type (think it was marked F)

But i have never heard of fitting the belt backwards - will have to read a haynes manual and have a laugh:lmao:

Marks DTM Calib said:
Lol, thats what mine is like (2000 model, last of the 2.5's....)

All the ones on Saturday are the earler units (i.e. metal oil filter etc)
 

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Darryl check out the Vauxhall College manual I sent you - it has the instructions you need.

I had the same problem as you - mines a year 2000.
 

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Geffd said:
D type tensioners are the original ones without the belt guide on the tensioner roller - when they fail they eat your timing cover. i know they were fitted upto 1996 model.
the later ones had a belt guide so when they fail they are not so hungry and dont eat the timing cover - think they were E or later EA
Sorry for being a bit thick, but if a tensioner failure means that your pistons will get dented, the valves bent, and the valve guides cracked (did I miss something?), in the larger scale of things how important is it to protect the precious timing cover from harm? :think
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sorted Hopefully

Got this sussed i think.

I took the new belt off and checked it against the old one where all of the marks were still clearly visible.

The new one has 3 sets of white stripes. One set to line up on the crank and a set each for each bank of cams.

The new one also has an additional set of GREEN stripes that are for the crank and one set of additional GREEN stripes that are for cams 1 +2.

When i checked the old belt against the new i found that matching the white stripes from cams 3+4 on both old and new belt and then working around i came to an exact match for cams 1+2 by using the Green stripes on the new against the white on the old.
Moving on further when i reached the crank marks on the old belt, ( Yes youve guessed it ) the additional set of Green stripes lined up perfectly.

I am now of the opinion that the belt supplied with mine will seve both the D set of rollers or the later E ones.

Now that i know what is what i will fit it properly tomorrow. and take my time getting the tension set properly.




Thanks for all of the help Darryl
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Jason,
after stumbling on the cause tonight i did a search on cambelt markings. I found your previous post :-

QUOTE :-

The belt markings wasted a lot of time. My belt had some yellow and some white marks on it. The only possible way to fit it was with the double yellow on the crankshaft TDC mark, the single yellows on 1 and 2 and the single whites on 3 and 4.

That is EXACTLY what i have found with mine. I started to doubt myself and wondered if i had done something wrong.

Pleased to see you got yours sorted as well.

Thanks Darryl
 

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All the aftermarket kits gates/skf and so on all have both markings on for pre 99 m/year and 99 model year onwards. Vauxhall belts only have the one marking on - the difference is in the belt No (marked on the belt)- the later one has 500 the early 539.

Darryl Flynn said:
Got this sussed i think.

I took the new belt off and checked it against the old one where all of the marks were still clearly visible.

The new one has 3 sets of white stripes. One set to line up on the crank and a set each for each bank of cams.

The new one also has an additional set of GREEN stripes that are for the crank and one set of additional GREEN stripes that are for cams 1 +2.

When i checked the old belt against the new i found that matching the white stripes from cams 3+4 on both old and new belt and then working around i came to an exact match for cams 1+2 by using the Green stripes on the new against the white on the old.
Moving on further when i reached the crank marks on the old belt, ( Yes youve guessed it ) the additional set of Green stripes lined up perfectly.

I am now of the opinion that the belt supplied with mine will seve both the D set of rollers or the later E ones.

Now that i know what is what i will fit it properly tomorrow. and take my time getting the tension set properly.




Thanks for all of the help Darryl
 

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The guide stops the belt from coming off the rollers - cos when it does it does this:
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markjay said:
Sorry for being a bit thick, but if a tensioner failure means that your pistons will get dented, the valves bent, and the valve guides cracked (did I miss something?), in the larger scale of things how important is it to protect the precious timing cover from harm? :think
 

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H Mark, There is no adjustment for the 2-4-6 bank on the none excentric ones, as long as you get the belt on correctly the 2-4-6 bank is spot on (just don't get your head skimmed or you are in the [email protected]# - this was meant to make the belt run quieter - but it didn't make a lot of difference really. they were going to make the top roller none excentric - which was ok on the production line as they had special tooling made but how you would have fitted them DIY!!!!! anyway they changed their minds.
To fit them you have to get all the slack from the tensioner over to the bottom roller - or turn the crankshaft back (with the cam locks fitted) - slip the belt over the roller and turn the crank back to tdc.
Then just adjust the top roller as normal and set the tensioner. - not easy to do on a vectra though!!!

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Marks DTM Calib said:
Didn't know that about the 2.6/3.2, how do you get the crank to cam 4 timing correct?
 

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Found the technical service bulitin on the belt change from D to E in 1997 - also about fitting the belt clockwise.
For anyone who has one of the Vauxhall college books on the V6 engine the ones off ebay (Multi valve 2 V6) this is the bit they somehow missed out, just checked mine (from the college not ebay) and they have only put half the service bulitin in so heres a pic of the bit they didn't print.



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RonaldMcBurger said:
Yours is fitted the other way around. ie Anticlockwise because you have a 'd' type tensioner.

Remember Haynes book references are always the cars left and right, not yours. So when they refer to the left hand bank, they are refereing to the passenger side or your right as you look at the cams!

So, take that belt back off and follow this instead:

Starting with the crank, fit the lower pulley and fit the belt around that, on the way up to cams 4 and 3. line those stripes up on 4 and 3, then fit the upper pulley and go around that, or you could leave the slack for it and move on to cams 2 and 1, whichever is easiest to fit. Lastly fit it over the tensioner pulley.

Fit the top pulley if you haven't already.

Now your set of stripes should line up.

This ONLY applies to tensioner kits with a 'D' marking. If you have one with 'EA' or 'EB use the How2 guide for fitting.

Check it out Darryl. Should solve this one.:Cool2:

EDIT

Geoff, you must have been typing that as I was! It is because his kits is a 'D' type. (LOL)
 
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