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Vxon's car whore
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Discussion Starter #1
As most that turned up yesterday know, i have a rather obvious knocking on the engine (appears to be coming from the top left hand area of the engine bay if looking from the front of the car) and a few people threw a few idea's to me as to the cause.
Now, she is on 121k, apart from the knocking noise, she run's like a dream and will happily sit on the motorway with no problems at all and starts first time and there is no ecu light flashing at all. She came with no history and for those i spoke to yesterday, they will know the type of person i got her from. He had been using the cheapest bits/parts/fluids for maintainence hence why i think i have this problem.
Now, going to start at the bottom by doing a bloody good service on her starting with an engine flush and work up form there. Now, as i have never had to do an engine flush, could someone give me some pointers as to how to do this?
It's probably a piece of pie for most but as i said, i always thought that unless you had a good hisory with the car then you would not need to do such a thing.
Gonna be running a couple of slick50 products through first and see what that does (as reccomended by someone yesterday). I am not going to be getting rid of her because of this as a few people (dest and dangli) have given me a few idea's as to where i can go if the stuff i can reasonably do fails.
 

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IIRC you just add the flushing addative, drive the car for a short while then do the oil change...however there is alot of people who say flushing can be bad for an engine, and the best thing to do is do an oil change with some cheap semi synthetic...and then do another one after about 1000 miles, with the good stuff.

But a knocking from an engine is usually serious...big ends spring to mind.
 

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Vxon's car whore
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Discussion Starter #3
MadOnVaux! said:
IIRC you just add the flushing addative, drive the car for a short while then do the oil change...however there is alot of people who say flushing can be bad for an engine, and the best thing to do is do an oil change with some cheap semi synthetic...and then do another one after about 1000 miles, with the good stuff.

But a knocking from an engine is usually serious...big ends spring to mind.
i say knocking, its more like a loud tapping and had a really good listen to her last night about 20 odd miles from home in the services and she had pretty much lost the noise. Does not increase with the engine speed (well it does but its not uniform if you know what i mean?)
 

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Vxon's car whore
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Discussion Starter #5
Stephen G said:
just sounds like the tappets to me mate my gsi does that and it goes away after a while .
its a 50/50 with this one at the moment though. Hoping its just that they are well and truly gunked up or at the most fooked so i shall get a new set. I have heard of a similar noise caused by something loose at the back of the area in question as well.
 

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Get Fuzzy
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890 Posts
All the flushes Ive ever used say: warm the engine, add the flush, run the engine at fast idle (1500-2k, with no load on it) for 10 -15 min then drain the oil.

I know at the garage I go to they use forte stuff and I've used slick 50 before.
 

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CavWeb's Oldguy
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4,816 Posts
My advice is do not flush it, leave well alone. If it is knocking just flushing will do no good at all anyway and could make it worse if you block pipes with released crud.

Just change the oil/filter and again in 1000k as suggested above, as you are not looking for long life but for cleaning, any oil with an API-CX rating where X is G,H,I onwards will do. If you think it could be tappets a simple way of cleaning them is to put in Wynns hydraulic valve cleaner for that 1000 miles. It worked for me in an XE.
 
C

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Post above seems to have read my mind.........
That wynn's stuff worked on my let.
 

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Premium Member
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have you had a look at the tensioner as that could be on its way out, a friend said he had the same on his vectra and it turned out to be the spring in the tensioner
 

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My Dad uses Forte flush as a matter of course when he's doing an oil change on a customer's car. You just lob it in, run the engine for a bit to warm it up and then drop the old oil and replace with fresh.
 

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Vxon's car whore
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Discussion Starter #11
whitebullet said:
have you had a look at the tensioner as that could be on its way out, a friend said he had the same on his vectra and it turned out to be the spring in the tensioner
cambelt is being done next month. Its got about another 10k left but as she came with no history except that, its on the immediate list, may even get it done this month tbh
 

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Premium Member
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was gonna say, rob, the 'ticking' from yours sounds no worse than my brothers sri and he has full service with it. just that his goes after a little while.

does seem like rather fekked tappets to me.
 

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Vxon's car whore
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Discussion Starter #13
Well, got a quote for a cambelt change today, £230 inc parts, however, i was under the impression that if doingg a cambelt then its always a good idea to do the water pump as its within the cambelt system. I was informed today however that this is not the case, can anyone confirm this?
(btw, slick 50 went in today, both oil and fuel, did a bit of energetic driving and it seems to have quietened down a smidge)
 

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Team Tommy Tank!
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Yes the waterpump runs off of the cambelt, you don't HAVE to do it but it's well worth doing for the price of the pump while it's in bits. Sods law dictates that it will go about 0.1 of a mile after your cambelts been done if you don't!
 

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Vxon's car whore
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Discussion Starter #15
Matt-SRI said:
Yes the waterpump runs off of the cambelt, you don't HAVE to do it but it's well worth doing for the price of the pump while it's in bits. Sods law dictates that it will go about 0.1 of a mile after your cambelts been done if you don't!
had quite a bit of work done by this garage and they are reasonable and normally know what they are on about. will have to think about this one methinks.
 

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My tappets were quiet until it had a flush put through it :rolleyes:
 

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on the 2.5 engines the water pump runs off the aux drive belt, They cost £25 from vauxhall and is held in with 3 bolts, I changed my waterpump in under 10minutes. so no reason not to change it at the same time. if you decide not to and it decides to leak then it is still easy enough to replace without disturbing the cambelt.
 

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Registered
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Rapid oil changes... every 1k for 3k and then regular oil changes every 3k..
No engine flush.... nasty stuff.

Weren't Slick50 people sued a few years back for a shite product?
 
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