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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

Wondered if any of you kind folk could help me out or give me some advice please?

Firstly I have had more than my fair share of heartache with this bloody Engine Management Light, or as my friend calls it the 'money light' :)

I bought my V reg 2.0 LS DTI Vectra about 2 years ago. It had done about 93k. I do roughly about 20k a year.

Last summer the turbo started to make a whining noise on acceleration but I wasn't losing power at the time. After taking it to a Vx garage they told me that it was the turbo and that if I wasn't losing power why change the turbo. Good idea I thought, why spend the money when the noise goes away with the turn of a knob on the stereo. This was all going fine until about last december.

As has been mentioned in other posts, the car lost power and the 'money light' came on. I again took to a Vx garage and they said it was a solenoid problem and changed it for £80.00. I was happy with this as opposed to the thought of paying for a new turbo.

Eventually a couple of months ago the same happened and, low and behold a new turbo and pipe was required. £545.00 later I was a happy(ish) man with a car that was working perfectly fine again.

Last week the 'money light' started to come on again every now and again, with loss of power and the rev counter staying at zero. If I dropped a gear and put my foot down, this seemed to clear the problem. It seems to be happening all the more now so today I booked it in with the Vx garage again and said that I think there is a problem with the turbo. The lady behind the counter said "Well have you checked the oil as this can make the car go into 'safe mode' when it is low" (The cheeky cow!!)

I have booked it in for yet another £40.00 diagnostic check to find out what the problem is this time. I bet it is nothing that is under warranty!!!

I was just wondering if many others are having the same experience
 

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Engine management light

Can understand your frustration with this damned light. Last year on my Vectra 1998 DTI the management light came on and went into limp home mode.
Its actually only now done 35 thousand miles so it wasnt something which comes with age.
My mate up the road bought his tech 2 tester from work and it said it was the MAF sensor but he was reluctant to change it as he said they tell such lies.
Took it to a main Vauxhall dealer on Monday and they rang me on tuesday that the turbo had gone. OK I said as long as you put mine back on if it isnt.
Rang them wednesday and they said they were putting my own turbo back on as it wasnt the problem.
Thursday contacted them and they said the car was on its way to a sister main dealer as they couldnt find the problem.
Friday they rang me to say they had solved the problem and it was the CAT which had collapsed.
I almost collapsed when they gave me the bill. It was over £1100.00 initially. I argued that the time they had spent was down to their problem in not diagnosing it and they eventually dropped it down to £850.00
The car went brilliantly since then until today that cursed light has come on intemittently albeit with no power loss but can see trouble looming again.
Oh for the days of simplicity.
 

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Diesel e/m light

Hi, had lots of diesel vectras donig this kind of thing. Often turns out to be either a split vacuum hose near the vac solenoids on the nearside inner wing or the vacuum pump not delivering sufficient vacuum to run all the vacuum bits. Often puts up fault code for EGR or turbo solenoid. Check out the fault codes and vacuum. Regards, www.car-electrician.co.uk
 

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CE were you referring to Icklemans problem or myself or both?.
My problem has in the last couple of days been started by the management light going out after the ignition is switched on and then reappearing after the engine has started.
It remains on until I reach the end of my Close and then goes out. It has done this every time. Performance is unchanged.
This morning I did have a look at these tiny vacuum pipes but they appeared OK. I dont want to go down the garage route until the light remains on (if it does) as with the main dealer it appears they change everything until its solved.
Any other advice you have would be welcome.
regards
wemyss
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Its starting to get worse now....

I was driving today and the 'money light' came on again only this time as well as losing power/revs etc. the car died and I had no power steering or anything. Had to pull over, start the car again and all was well.

Only glad that I wasnt going around a corner and the steering lock stayed on.

Any advice on this one??
 

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the car died and I had no power steering or anything. Had to pull over, start the car again and all was well.

Only glad that I wasnt going around a corner and the steering lock stayed on.

Any advice on this one??
First off, if you'd kept the car in gear then the engine would have been turning while you were moving and you'd have had power steering. I know it's easy for me to sit here typing this and it's a whole other thing when you're in the situation you were faced with, but it might be worth bearing in mind for future. I know how the steering behaves without PS and I don't envy you!

I'd echo what's been said in here already about a vacuum related fault, possibly even a sensor problem. The turbo operation, EGR and inlet manifold are all controlled by vacuum and a leak anywhere will cause a fault and the EML (money light) will come on and the car enter limp mode.

My advice is that you check every single inch of the vacuum pipework starting from the vacuum pump itself. Check each and every rubber coupler for splits and reseat everything. If you have air recirculation then that's vacuum operated too so check that.

If you're serious about a DIY repair and want to cut down on guesswork then visit your local independent garage for a code readout and post the codes here (you cannot 'paperclip' test the diesels). You might need to make 2 visits, one to erase any residual codes and a 2nd to show what's *really* wrong with your car. My local place charges me a tenner per readout.
 

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HI,

I know the last post on this was a while ago, but I'm curious to know if you managed to solve the problem.

It sounds to me like it was/is the crank sensor (bottom front of engine) Mine was doing exactly the same as yours, right down to the cutting out bit (on the M6)

I took the crank sensor out, cleaned it and the problem got better. So i got a new one and hey presto, problem solved (£30 off eBay)

let us know what happened if poss,

Cheers
 

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I have a vectra 2.0 di. Engine management light coming on a tickover then going off once driving. Coming on again over 3500 rpm and going into "limp home" turned out to be split rubber on vacuum circut. Simple way try to check for these leaks is to pull a pipe of the inlet side of one of the vacuum valves (engine stoped first) then try to blow down pipe. If you can blow down at all there is a leak. Seems to be very cheap rubber on these and they are overstreched onto the valves. Shows up all sorts of strange expensive faults on the computer. These vacuum valves all operate different engine functions so the fault changes depending on which one the car is trying to operate when it is not making enough vacuum.
 

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i have noticed my dti sometimes when starting the car up it goes off and then suddenly comes back again but as soon as i put my foot down a little it goes off and from then it drives like a dream with no money light at all..any thoughts?
 

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vectra diesel loosing power

Hi, had lots of diesel vectras donig this kind of thing. Often turns out to be either a split vacuum hose near the vac solenoids on the nearside inner wing or the vacuum pump not delivering sufficient vacuum to run all the vacuum bits. Often puts up fault code for EGR or turbo solenoid. Check out the fault codes and vacuum. Regards, www.car-electrician.co.uk

Hi All,

i have an X-reg vectra Di, which has this seemingly commen limp home problem at above 2500 to 3000 RPM.
Having read various sites I changed the MAF but this has not solved the problem.

Can anybody help?
Do I need to reset the ECU or is my next step to change the Crankshaft sensor? There dont seem to be any leaks in the rubber inlet lines.

it does also only seem to go into limo home at higher RPM but only when in 5th gear

Makydb
 
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