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Discussion Starter #1
i bought another omega elite on friday and now it wont open the drivers door on the remote or key, all other doors open ok so how the hell do i sort this one out?? cant take the door card off as the door is shut.:shame:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
and another big thing with the car is the fan for the blower wont switch off you have to pull the green 30amp fuse out the thing for it to stop???
 

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can you pull the knob up from the inside (as you said the other doors open OK)?

Sounds like the solenoid may be faulty ...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks sounds2 but i pulled up the nob and it bloody came away, if i pull up the wire rob below it should this open it??
 

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Omega Tank Commander
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Yes, sounds like the solenoid stuck in the deadlock position, you can force it open on the key but, it requires frightening amount of pressure!
 

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yes, as long as the mechanism isn't jammed :cry:

When my door was deadlocked (remote stopped working), I found that you need to turn the key anti-clockwise first - a bit stiffer than normal, but not too bad. Towards the end of travel you feel the resistance disappear. Then tun it all the way to the right as normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Marks DTM Calib said:
Yes, sounds like the solenoid stuck in the deadlock position, you can force it open on the key but, it requires frightening amount of pressure!
thanks mark, solenoid seems to click and the rod goes up a little but nothing, maybe its not quite opperating the rod as much, tried the key from the outside but locks and unlocks but no door open?:cry:
 

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Another Dead CDX
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You could try to pull up the weather strip a bit to see the lock mech and squirt a bit of wd40 with a straw on the lock mech, it might work..
 

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Another Dead CDX
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Could poss be that the key remote has been used a lot and the key mech has been neglected.
 

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Another Dead CDX
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It could also be the solenoid on the lock mech .

Give the wd40 a try first and really drown it.

Also put a small elecrical sized screwdriver to open the flap where the key goes in the lock and give that a good dousing a well, that will get to a lot of places as well , the lock barrel has a cutout on the bottom where the tumblers are placed this willl let the wd40 gush out onto what ever is undeneath ..
 
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Ronny puts his silly hat on and says.....

Angle grinder. Well, your breaking it anyway, whats one outer door skin between friends?:jason2:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
RonaldMcBurger said:
Ronny puts his silly hat on and says.....

Angle grinder. Well, your breaking it anyway, whats one outer door skin between friends?:jason2:
no finlay, keeping them both now, far to good to break, will restore this one and run. just like you mr 2 cars.;)
 

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Probably fair to say that the number of times the key has been in the door lock in the last few years can be counted on one hand so lots of oil is a good idea. There is no history of problems with the door, but when it originally played up by refusing to catch shut, I am fairly positive I heard the alarm going, so not sure what was happening. Home mechanics have told me it is the solenoid as someone else in the Bournemouth area had to sort out his solenoid over the weekend thanks to the cold weather and it was in the same area Thursday night.
Rob, when you originally pulled the catch off, I noticed there were 2 wires sticking up but not parallel, are they seated right? Any idea if something the mechanic did could have caused any breakage? If not it just sounds like the solenoid has jammed in the shut position this time.
The trick which works on the passenger door (only required when the handle is open when the lock is activated and only happened 3 or 4 times in the last few years) is to activate the locks and then lift the catch from inside, bit of a sod to get it right but easy when it does decide to work, so it may be worth trying on the drivers side.

I have to talk to my mechanic soon so I will ask him if he can shed any further light.

If this had occurred before it would definitely have been off to the scrappie.
Mind you with the electric seat memory, you could always set position three up as right back with the seat back down and then slide in and out from the back door!
Seriously again, I used it every day until I got the diesel and only a couple of times after that, so the only thing different over the last few weeks is the lack of use.


The problem with the heater is the rheostat or something like that, apparently a common fault. You have to remove the glove box and the wires are behind it. Just disconnect and remove the old one and install the new one in the reverse procedure (according to the book) probably cheapest source is scrap yard as they are expensive from VX, although somewhere on one of these threads someone has just installed a separate switch in the circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
thanks steve, ill get it all going well in the end, thanks for the info on the rheostat that dosent seem to bad to do, when i get time off ill take a proper look at the door at the weekend. rob
 
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