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aka wallop
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Discussion Starter #1
went out last night for the first time with new stereo and couldn't believe i still have dimming lights on high volume. :eh
at normal levels i don't have a problem,(showing 13.3volts on splitter, and 14.3volts on both caps). these figures are pretty stable up until you can feel the bass, then it starts to fluctuate. at full chat its dropping down to 11volts on bass notes.:cry:
any advice on how to improve this would be helpful and most welcome.

alternator is 100amp, (dont want to upgrade if poss)
starter battery is huge (off a volvo, just fits the tray).
alt to batt feed is 4awg
batt earth is 0awg to a batt earth post.
split charge is 4awg cable.
boot battery is an optima yellow top.
yellow top earth is 0awg
yellow top live to splitter is 0awg
using 2x 1 farad caps just on mono amp. (yes they are :turd )
both amp earths are the same length (9") told that the shorter the better!?

if i do require a larger alternator is there one off another vauxhall that is a straight swap. the car is a cavalier with the c20xe engine on a 93 l plate
thanks for looking....:Cool2:
 

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8v Power!
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sounds like there just isnt enough power... uprated alternator sounds like a must. Do you get any flashy lights on the dash?
 

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aka wallop
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945 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Envoy CDX said:
sounds like there just isnt enough power... uprated alternator sounds like a must. Do you get any flashy lights on the dash?
dash lights dimm with the beat but i dont get any warning lights (charging light & management light both stay off). voltage in boot with engine off is 12.8volts, with engine running its 13.3volts at the splitter, & 14.3volts on both caps.:coke:
 

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Ditch the caps. They may be adding to the problem. It's hard enough for the system to recover after the amps suck the current out, without two capacitors to charge up aswell.
Not only that, but as Mark noticed, they're not serving any useful function as voltage measuring devices.

Double check the connections/wiring at the front battery and alt. end. The front battery/alt. is unable to get current into the car because it's being drained through the audio system power wiring, which obviously is doing its job.
The problem is not with the audio power supply.

A possible cure may be upgrading other circuits from main fuse, such as lighting.
Failing that, a bigger alt. But you're only going to get another 20Amps.

What's the total current draw of your amps?
 

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aka wallop
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Discussion Starter #6
not sure what max current draw is but the 4 channel amp has 2x 30 amp fuses & the mono amp has 3x 40 amp fuses. both amps are running at 2ohms.
:Cool2: :coke:
 

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Geriatric petrol-head
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Your stereo is fused to allow 180 amps. When added to the "normal" requirement it's no wonder a 100A alternator won't cope!

Although the output voltage from the alternator is electronically stabilised, the output current (amperes) varies with the rotation speed, ie engine speed. At cruising speed you'll get a lot less than the rated 100A.

If your engine is standard, you could fit a smaller pulley on the alternator - this would increase it's speed and output. If, however, your engine is modified to rev beyond the original limit this approach might wreck the alternator by over-revving it at full throttle.

Higher output alternator, higher capacity auxilliary battery or additional auxilliary batteries are your only other options.
 

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My advice to you is run a second cable from the altenator to the battery ( 0 guage) upgrade the battery earth to chassis to 0 guage get rid of the split charger and run 0 guage down the car to the second battery (fused at front and rear of vehicle within 18 inches of the battery) dump the volvo battery and replace with optima yellow top (when running multiple batteries they should all be the same make model and amp hours) upgrade the gear box earth chassis strap to 0 guage and finaly turn the gains down on the apms slightly
 

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aka wallop
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Discussion Starter #9
anthony said:
My advice to you is run a second cable from the altenator to the battery ( 0 guage) upgrade the battery earth to chassis to 0 guage get rid of the split charger and run 0 guage down the car to the second battery (fused at front and rear of vehicle within 18 inches of the battery) dump the volvo battery and replace with optima yellow top (when running multiple batteries they should all be the same make model and amp hours) upgrade the gear box earth chassis strap to 0 guage and finaly turn the gains down on the apms slightly
if i run 0 guage from battery to battery what fuse rating would you recommend. what is the advantage power wise in removing the split charge relay?
feel a bit of a tw-t for not recognising the difference in the battery's could be a problem:shame:
going to go and order the battery now, thanks for the pointers, oh and your cav instal looks real sweet...:Cool2:
 

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The fuse is there to protect the cable, so it has to blow before the cable gets too warm.
0 gauge will carry 250Amps, so the fuse should be around that figure.

Edit. Circuit breakers would be better. They have less resitance.

Split charge can only use one battery with ign. off. Parallel uses both.
Split charge has relay in circuit (resistance). Parallel does not.
Split charge won't flatten front battery, so can always start car.

Assuming you have a 200Amp relay, it shouldn't affect resistance too much.
 

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aka wallop
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Discussion Starter #11
i never use stereo unless engine is running (drives better when its running:lmao: )
current split charge relay is 180amp, protected by 2x 40amp circuit breakers.
 

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ICE power problems

hello evry.. just reading this thread and wanted some help 2 :)

i basically installed an AMP and sub recently and have been having the dimming lights and dimming dash light problem.. etc...

i have installed a...

Pioneer 1000W RMS SUB the model no.3004
and kenwood 900W RMS AMP model.9152d with 4 gauge wiring kit.. with RCA and power going to amp from opp sides of car.

in my mk4 1.4 16v astra 99 with the 100A alternators

just after installing the ICE my alternator went.. lol... it was gonna go anyway so i upgraded..

i had got hold of another alternator in very good condition...
its got a stiker on it saying 132A but im not sure if it is... mayby from a vectra.. not sure...

the AMP draws 60amps at max.. 2 x 30A fuses... and when i atempt to turn volume up... the lights dim quite bad :(

im kinda new to the ICE installing and troubleshoot so any help wud b greatly apreciated as i dnt no what the problem could b...
 
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Hi mate.

As you may have read firther up the thread, the most likely cuplrit is the earthing points.

Is your earthing point for your amp a "proper" one?
By that I mean is it a specifically drilled hole with a good connection to bare metal held down by a good thick bolt?

After that, check the eathing points on the engine are clean and secure.
If necessary, replace them. They are cheap and easy to do.
 

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Ditch the caps. They may be adding to the problem
yes agree i dont see the need for caps when you have a split charge in there?
these will be adding starin to the system

and also the earths are another thing to look at again

the alternator is fine ( unless on the way out )
 

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hello again..

i checked the ground for the Amp and it seems fine... i will clean and sand the conection point but the connection is clean..

OWWWW....another thing i just remember..

b4 installing any of the ICE... i use to get a small static like shock from the driver side door when i touched it.... it only happened evry now and then so i didnt take any notice of it.....i suppose this is to do with the Eearthing for the engine???

and which earth ponts do i check, thers a few arnt there?

sori for all the questions and thanks for replying to the 1st post.:D

PS. i checked the battery with an AVO tech meter and when the music volume was at 60% the reading on the meter showed alot of power being pulled ffrom the AMP. when the ice was lower or even off.. the alternator and battery were performing very well... could i have a inproper discharge of the battery??
 

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aka wallop
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Discussion Starter #17

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hi, thanks for the info but are the wires needed of specific spec.. other than the 4gauge etc... and do you know any good websites where i can purchase these reqired connection wires other than ebay????

and do you think this will sort the problem out?

thnks again 4 the help :coke:
 

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The static shock you get is nothing to do with the engine ground. Just keep your hand on the door frame as you get out of the car.

With cables, there's no substitute for size.
You could pay a fortune for Oxygen free Copper etc, but it's pointless.
Just get the biggest you can afford/fit.
Halfords stuff is fine, although a bit more expensive.

Is the battery old? What was the reading on the battery when you did your tests?
 

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hello, thanks for for the info..

as for for the battery, when i took the reading when engine is off the battery was producing 12.6/7v the AVo was a non-digital type, just light corresponding to the level of output e.g2 lights mean 12.6/7

with the car running it produces over 14v and alternator runs well. but when the music volume is turned over the 60/70% mark the reading drops well below 13.8v at the bass peaks
not sure on the age of the battery as have only had the car under 2 years. but i dnt thinks its been replaced for a while... i will check the docs and reciepts given with car.. its a GM vauxhall batt.

again, thanks evry1 for the help.:D
 
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