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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
My 56 combo is an avsolute pig to start from cold, it cranks and cranks then leave it for 10-15 secs it cranks again for about 10 secs, leave it again and then it fires up.. once its started its starts ok and drives mint.. i have just done the timing chain and replaced rockers and injector seals. How ever it had this issue prior to the chain going and i thought it was linked to that but it still has it.. the glow plug light goes off immediatly, my interior light doesnt work but ive turned my head lights on with the ignition on, when the glow plugs are on the lights should be a bit dim and brightwn up once they go off, is that right? But nothing happens to them..
 

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I'd say the lighting up and extinguishing of the GP light is just as it's on the same timer circuit as the GPs, doesn't mean they've actually worked and heated up, only that they've had power (or not) for the specific time. As there is no change in the headlight brightness when the GP light is on / off I'd say they're either all dead now, or they have no power. I'd pull the easiest one to get out and see what goes on when you turn on the ign and light the light. If it fails to glow, check the power to it, then systematically check the rest if the power is ok.
 

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Sounds like either your battery or tired starter motor or both components.
 

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Id try glows first as suggested they are just on a timer, however u may possibly expect to see a spanner car warning light come on if they are dead.. Worth a shot, then move onto battery then motor, you say its running nice when started you can almost rule out battery as you may see some drain from power steering or usual signs of battery dying
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've leant a multimeter, and tested the battery which was 12.6.. also I left the positive on the the terminal and put the neg on the top of the glow plugs. All give the same reading of 12.6 which means the glow plugs are ok doesn't it? To test if I have power to them do I put the neg to an earth on the body and the live in the Gp cap and turn the ignition on?
Also fred, once it's started it fires up ok.. if it was the starter motor wouldn't this fault continue regardless of engine temp? Trying to avoid pulling them out as every time I've ever had to pull them out (on other vehicles) they've snapped!
Cheers guys..
 

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Hot starting troubles are more likely to be starter motor related from experience but cold starts can also be a struggle if the starter can't throw the engine over quick enough.
 

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I've leant a multimeter, and tested the battery which was 12.6.. also I left the positive on the terminal and put the neg on the top of the glow plugs. All give the same reading of 12.6 which means the glow plugs are ok doesn't it? To test if I have power to them do I put the neg to an earth on the body and the live in the Gp cap and turn the ignition on?
If you are tying to test the resistance of the GPs (resistance goes high when they are goosed), set the multimeter to the Ohms (Ω) setting. Connect the Black MM lead onto a good earth, or the battery Neg terminal, and the Red lead onto the top of the GP with the GP lead removed - if you leave the GP leads connected you are only checking between the GP power lead and your earth which will be sky high; and not the actual resistance of the GP. If any of the power leads were suspect you'd see a voltage drop from your 12.6v.

HTH, if you need any more help just PM and I'll do what I can.
 

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Another thing you can try is to put you multimeter across the battery and measure the voltage when its cold, now leave the meter connected and watch the reading while you get someone to crank the car over.. tell us what the reading drops to or if you have Opcom you can do it while watching the battery voltage in Measuring blocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi everyone.. thanks for the replies and sorry for it taking a bit to get back, glow plugs and power to them is all good.. I've found out the problem is fuel.. I was cranking it over and cracked the pipe at the injector, the was no fuel for a couple of seconds on 1&2 and when the 3rd one was cracked it fired up just after.. any common problems regarding air getting into the system anywhere? I replaced the injector seals when I did the chain and they are ok.. would the return pipe in top of the injector cause fuel to drain back to the tank if it wasn't sealed properly?
Cheers guys
 

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Hi there i might as well have my say lol....it sounds like the crank sensor to me?, have you got any codes, checking for fuel can be deceiving it will probably only dribble out when you crank it over that's normal....as for glow plugs well no, putting a circuit tester or multimeter from positive to the glow plug link means nothing i'm afraid, there wired in Parallel, so you would have to take the link wire off that connects them together,, and test then 1 at a time...they should be about 1 ohm or less, with the whole 4 together about 0.25 ohms, but that's not the way to do it...the other way to test them if there is 12 volts going to them they should consume about 60 amps initially dropping down as they get hot....but the dont work above 0c anyway regarding starting, only on reduced power to aid cold running as i understand it....and yes it needs to turn over pretty fast and have good compression....from Fred in Essex.
 

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Hi everyone.. thanks for the replies and sorry for it taking a bit to get back, glow plugs and power to them is all good.. I've found out the problem is fuel.. I was cranking it over and cracked the pipe at the injector, the was no fuel for a couple of seconds on 1&2 and when the 3rd one was cracked it fired up just after.. any common problems regarding air getting into the system anywhere? I replaced the injector seals when I did the chain and they are ok.. would the return pipe in top of the injector cause fuel to drain back to the tank if it wasn't sealed properly?
Cheers guys
Leak off pipes ?
 

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Can you hear the intank pump prime the fuel system when you switch the ignition on, it might be worth checking the fuel filter housing before trying the next cold start, see how much fuels in there, if its 1/2 full then you know you have a drain somewhere, the injector leak off pipes will cause this if they are leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I can hear the pump working, however I'm sure it used to sound like it squirting fuel up the system and it doesn't seem to sound the same now but the pimo is definitely on as I can hear it.. there's no visual leaks, I'll leave a piece of cardboard underneath them and see if anything drips on them..
 

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You may have a blockage at the gauze filter in the tank which could be slowing down the rate at which the fuels flowing.. have you changed the filter recently, if you did was it dirty...covered in black slime.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've changed the filter in the engine bay housing (it was slimy and full of crap..) and I still have the same problem.. I can drive it without it missing a beat as soon as it's stood for 10/15 mins Its back to square 1.. it's obviously pulling air in somewhere but where do I start? Surely it's on the return side?
 

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So it has a pump in the tank and its a diesel...how about disconnecting the pipe under the bonnet that goes to the pump in the tank...turning ignition on and see if you get a 2 second prime, might even be longer on diesel, and indeed does it come out when you crank it....of course you have to do this when it doesn't start....when it wont go have you taken the top of the fuel filter to see if there is any fuel in there....if you have an electric pump i wouldn't think it would suffer much with drawing air in, now i dont know your Particular system but just speaking generally.....from Fred in Essex.
 
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