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Discussion Starter #1
So, here's the story:
I bought a car on 28th May.
All was fine and dandy, everything working perfectly until my central locking froze up in deadlock mode on 5th June.
The only change to the car from purchase was the addition of an insurance black box thingymajig and this fault occurred within 24 hours and 2 journeys after it was added (I find that coincidental personally so am waiting on contact fron insurance company to get someone out to check the box installation over).
In the meantime, my car battery died the same day central locking went down and again on the friday night, despite taking a full charge Thursday night.
I recharged the battery (disconnected from the car) abd checked for high current draw with engine off and no problem found. I then went on to check that the alternator is charging the battery normally - it is. No AC leakage, level charging voltage at revs right from idle all the way up to 4000rpm and it has zero resistance from alternator casing to battery negative.
Anyway, moving on - the car starts and drives normally, no blown fuses for central locking and the boot lock still responds to the remote key, just the doors and petrol filler door wont unlock at all.
I got a garage to manually power the lock motor in my driver door - it unlocked fine but obviously, I can't lock it again (note, the ignition key doesn't match the door lock).
Can I safely assume that I can test the central locking system by shorting pins in the driver door loom? If so, see my next post and let me know if I am correct or not please?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Alternator is fine - charging battery normally so I can rule that out as the cause of battery drain. I have also confirmed that there is not a high current draw (varies from -0.02 to +0.02 when the engine is off.
Now, look at the image here: https://ibb.co/44kP09v
From what I can tell, I need to short Pin 4 to ground to unlock the other doors (if the central locking controller is working) - anyone confirm this?
Also, to lock the doors, short pin 3 to 12V supply???
Finally, short deadlock control to 12V to engage the deadlocks (while shorting pin 3 at the same time - simulate it getting the signal from the key from 2 button presses)???
PS. I got the pin assignments from another internet post: http://www.vxronline.co.uk/forum/archive/index.php/t-205145.html?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That is a good question.
In the past I have seen them fitted near the fuesbox under the dash but this car doesn't have a fusebox under the dash, it's in the boot. I have tried to contact the installer but he hasn't replied to my messages or calls - hence going through the insurers.

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Discussion Starter #5
I found out that the black box is fitted behind the glove box. It takes power from one of the 3 main 12V feeds in a loom that is there and is grounded directly to a chassis bolt in the same area. No other wires. Installation people sent someone out and he disconnected the box - central locking still not functional except the boot. I could REALLY do with a wiring diagram that outlines the colours of the wires for the locking system and whether they carry voltage or not so I can figure out a way to manuallu unlock the doors. Anyone help?

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i can see what i have tomorrow,but i need to know if the car has a full REC or just the small rear fuse box,if it's hatch,twintop,open and start or standard c/l,i think that's all
(o/p check in your owners manual if you don't know the difference between the fuse boxes)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Additional, there is a small fusebox under the bonnet too. All I know central locking wise is the boot fusebox fuse 38 is for central locking

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Discussion Starter #11
Sorry, forgot to say, it is standard central locking system. Astra active isnthe official model of the car

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If you message @Valer your VIN he can usually find most things from that.
 
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:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:(y)
 
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Discussion Starter #18
On a positive note, after emailing Vauxhall, they have agreed to diag it free of charge - once results are in they will discuss what they will do re: repairing it so can't grumble. Thank you all for helping me out! I will update you all when I have results of diags

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Discussion Starter #20
Slight bonus, I found the cable that releases the fuel cap door and managed to open it so at least I can put fuel in now!
The cable can be found just below the access panel for the driver's side rear light cluster (looks like a bicycle brake cable) - pull it and the lock releases.

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