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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right, I have loved my 2l 8v for the past 4 months however the mileage is approaching 100K and im keen to chop it in for a 16v in the next couple of months.

I hear the terms redtop and ecotec used to describe the 16v - how can you tell without looking under the bonnet. Any tips for the 16v?
 

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VxON`S VAMP
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The Reg is a good guide TBH ours is a k reg and is a late dizzyless Redtop the better of the 2 in my opinion !:Cool2:

And as for your 8v hitting 100k ours hit 191 and was still pulling strong and was only broken earlier this year when she got hit by an un-insured driver !!:Cool2:
 

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VxON`S VAMP
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Aslo how is the reliability of the redtop/ecotec compared to the 8v?
They are pretty good although i personally don`t like Ecotec`s (but thats just me ) given the choice i would say i`d stick with an 8v reliable and pretty much bomb proof less to go wrong on them .
But in defence of the 16v Redtop "Oh my god have they got some power !" and there are very few unmodified redtops left .

In terms of speed an 8v will leave a redtop behind from a standing start but once the redtop gets going their is no way an 8v can keep up ! ( We know we have tried this !:lmao:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Is it worth just putting on a decent air filter and chipping the 8v???

Can the engine take the extra strain?
 

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VxON`S VAMP
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Is it worth just putting on a decent air filter and chipping the 8v???

Can the engine take the extra strain?
Hell yeah ! My 8v has a gas flowed and ported head , she is running a stage one chip and has a K&N cone filter on her ( just make sure they have a good cold air feed ) and by god can she move for an 8v has a nice growl too thanks to the K&N !:bananasmi :bananasmi


If your around this afternoon my hubby JJ will give you some more info on Redtops !:Cool2:
 

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Ecotecs rely more heavily on electronic sensors to control the engine manegement system, and these sensors do tend to go wrong more often than they should. Some seem to be better than others - if you get a good one, they should be reliable; get a bad one, you'll wish you had a redtop!

Redtop 16v engines were only fitted until early 1994 (L registration).

Ecotecs also have the reputation for blowing head gaskets on higher mileage engines, and various other niggly issues.

Ecotecs have their fans though - just be cautious and check everything before handing over your hard-earned....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks. It appears that my idea of slightly upgrading might not be too good after all. I may stick to my 8v and tweak slightly. All i need now is a cheap chipped ecu, decent air filter and fatter tyres.

BTW does anyone know what the biggest vauxhall alloys (4 stud) fit the 8v?
 

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VxON`S VAMP
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Thanks. It appears that my idea of slightly upgrading might not be too good after all. I may stick to my 8v and tweak slightly. All i need now is a cheap chipped ecu, decent air filter and fatter tyres.

BTW does anyone know what the biggest vauxhall alloys (4 stud) fit the 8v?
Dunno TBH mines currently sat on 17`s (non vauxhall) if that helps at all ?
Oh and shes lowered by 35 and hubbys 16v redtop is also on 17`s and is lowered by 45 !:Cool2:
MINE 8v



HUBBYS 16v Redtop
 

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I was told that its easy to tune an 8v to keep up with a 16v, but there after its big money - little gain.

Redtops can be tuned higher, dont know how far but 190BHP doesnt seem impossible.

Having said that, if you want to keep an 8v you play to its advantages, its lower weight, and its lower torque. A decent manifold will release more up the rev range to make the power delivery better through the revs.

I've been in Redtops, I own an 8v (the 130BHP SEH) and I am yet to ride in a standard redtop that kicks as much off the line as my SEH seems to, but as Lou already said, they play second fiddle all the way after that. But on a twisty track that low down torque really does have its advantages dragging you out the corners, its not all about straight line speed.
 

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CavWeb's Oldguy
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At 100k your Cally is just run in! What you do depends on how much you want to spend. The advantage of staying with the existing car is that you know it and deferred depreciation if you don't sell it. Think about replacing your engine with a SEH, which will give you another 15bhp and lots more torque as well as allowing you (due to its age) to legally remove the Cat for more power.
 

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Can i really remove the cat on an M reg??
The emissions test is based on the age of the engine... so yes.

Although dont quote me on this, but if you put an engine (say a C20LET) into a J reg car which previous engine had no cat the LET wouldnt need one either.

Dont quote me on that though. But yes to answer your question the 20SEH was never designed to have a cat on so it will never need one regardless of the age of the shell it lives in
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok well im almost convinced I should keep the 8v now for 6 months longer. Provided the MOT goes ok ill run her for into 2007.

I would love to repair the tailgate (silver) as its scored (dont know how), the quarter rear inserts and the near side mirror which is bubbling - any ideas??
 

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CavWeb's Oldguy
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The MOT tester will normally go by the age of the car unless you make a point about the age of the engine.
 

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Ok well im almost convinced I should keep the 8v now for 6 months longer. Provided the MOT goes ok ill run her for into 2007.
Makes no sence to me saying I'll keep it for x amount longer if you are thinking along the lines of mileage, 8vs are good strong engines, they will cover more miles than the starship enterprise and go forever and a day aslong as you do the basic servicing regular. I'd feel more comfortable ragging an 8v round than an Ecotec or even Redtop as they just love abuse, and its bread and butter engineering, keep all the moving bits lubed and moving and give it some stick... they love it!
 
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