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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my omega a 2ltr 16v ecotec stall some times when in a traffic jam or just crawling along it then becomes a pig to start and will stall a couple of times more with the ecu light on then after trying to get it started it will start normaly and the light goes out and it runs normaly the tick over is around 850 when norm and 650 when playing up and when its ticking over low if i put the box {its auto} into park it will stall then also ive cleaned the breathers they seem ok and i stuck a load of carb cleaner into the i.c.v without taking it of and it ran ok for a couple of days have any of oyu out there got any ideas im thinking fuel filter please can some one help me:grrr
 

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Might be an idea to take the ICV valve off completely and clean it thoroughly as you may well have only just dislodged some of the crap rather than actually removing it.,and fuel filter would also be a good option, what's the air filter like?
Cheers Pete
 

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Might be an idea to take the ICV valve off completely and clean it thoroughly as you may well have only just dislodged some of the crap rather than actually removing it.,and fuel filter would also be a good option, what's the air filter like?
Cheers Pete
I agree, the place to start is the ICV. If pouring carb cleaner through it cured it for a few days, then a proper clean might cure it for good.
In the unlikely event that you need to replace the ICV, I believe these prices are good. http://www.tuneparts.co.uk/iscv.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks guys il let you know how it goes also how do you undo the clips on the fuel filter cant seem to work it out the only way to replace a meggy is with a new one
 

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and before you do any of this - check for ECU codes! 2 mins work with a paperclip might save you many hours replacing/ cleaning unnecessary parts.
 

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Clean out all the breather pipes, take particular care with the transparant tube at the front of the throttle body, check for cracks and replace if necessary.

Also clean out the one at the back of the engine from the camshaft.

Mine had the same problem, cleaned the breather, throttle body, problem solved.
 

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Hello,

Just to add...

A quick extract from the FAQ I wrote on this topic.

Fitting a fire trap can help to a certain extent, as this stops a certain amount of the deposits finding their way into the air flow. See here :-

http://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk/showthread.php?t=65799

However, the above work goes well with cleaning the entire assembly. The problem commonly affects Vectra owners, whose cars use the same engine as the 16 valve 2.0 Omegas. A fix for this is described in detail here :-

http://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk/showthread.php?t=24391

The important thing is to ensure that the small drilling in the throttle body is clear and that everything else is as free from dirt as possible.

The How to for cleaning was written with the Vectra in mind, but can be adapted :).

James
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
cheers again guys but now its cutting when sitting at idle and then cuts out when putting into park have taken the i.c.v off and realy giving it a good clean did not make any diffrence it seems a bit like fuel starvation ill try a complete stip down and clean over the weekend and how do you take the fuel filter off
 

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and before you do any of this - check for ECU codes! 2 mins work with a paperclip might save you many hours replacing/ cleaning unnecessary parts.
Did you check for any stored ECU codes or is the EML coming on at all, although the ICV is the most likely suspect a few other sensors do govern how the engine runs.
 

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just checked it quickly and the code for thecrank sensor comes up there are a couple of others wich i will check tomorrow
The Crank Sensor is what i had in mind, disconnect the battery for about 30/40 mins to clear the codes and try again, if the crank sensor still appears this is going to be the cause of the engine suddenly dying on you and sometimes starting will be difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
done what you suggested still came up with crank sensor also maf sensor came up couls this be a problem as well as it looks like it was replaced not to long ago
 

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done what you suggested still came up with crank sensor also maf sensor came up couls this be a problem as well as it looks like it was replaced not to long ago
The crank sensor is notorious for failing and will instruct the ecu to switch off or restrict the engine, I think there is a how 2 on here with some good suggestions on replacing it, the maf sensor will most likely disappear, they do fail as i have just realised myself but a few other things can cause the code to appear and i don’t think it will have another of the ecu's attention to shut off the engine. If your satisfied the ICV is clean and working I would start by changing the crank sensor, i had mine changed when i got my omega (only because it was already faulty) just goes to show, the engine would not start correctly and the EML would appear restricting the engine or it would just cut out, i think you have to get access to it from underneath the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks guys ordered the sensor of ebay only cost £17.50 including postage some body else wanted 354.00pluss vat and postage saved my self a bundle there also im gonna put a new thread on soon about a great scrap yard ive found down my way its got loads of omegas and heres the good bit all the cars in the yard are a ground level
 

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When I had this problem on mine, had the ICV off twice and cleaned it up without it making much difference. What really transformed it was cleaning up the throttle body. Take it off and clean out all that brown glaze that builds up in there, especially around the edges of the throttle butterfly. Since that time (2 yrs ago) the problem hasn't come back.
 

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I read with interest as my 98 Omega 2.0 Auto is exhibiting similar symptoms, poor idle, cutting out at lights (especially with a/c running), but also is a bit juddery on acceleration.

I took the throttle body of today and cleaned it all out, removed icv and cleaned it twice, but still no better.

I bought new plugs and leads (fitted earlier) and a new fuel filter, but as stephen said "how do you work those quick release clips?"

If this doesn't work, then I'm gonna replace the entire tb including icv tomorrow.

Any other suggestions on what it could be causing the grief? Is it worth me replacing the ecu? If so, will the ecu from a Vectra (also 2.0 ecotec) fit my Omega?
 

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Stephen,

went and got another throttle body, but it was slightly different to my existing one, so only replaced the ICV.

No change.

Replaced HT leads - No change.

Thought it felt a bit like a cracked dizzy cap / rotor arm, but the car doesn't have one. It does have one of these



so I replaced it, and hey presto, everything is back to normal. :bananasmi

(touch wood and all that ;) )

Got it from a scrappy, tb, icv and whatever this thing is called, all for £25.

So if anybody wants the tb (I'll keep the icv just in case) let me know and we can come to an arrangement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
its called a diss pack used in stead of a coil though it does the same job might try and change mine and see how its goes how easy was it ti change:bananasmi
 
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