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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, this is my first post and I am in need of some advice. I have a 2006 Renault traffic, 1.9 dci van and unfortunately I have run into some serious trouble. Basically I was driving around 20mph and the engine computer/glow plug light came on, about 10 seconds later I turned off the van and tried to restart it but it wouldn't. I tried turning the ignition quite a few times without realising this may be destroying my engine... I had AA come by to have a look and we noticed that the aux belt had frayed and a strand had made its way up into the cambelt.. He also did a diagnostics test on the computer and about 10 different things came up, one being camshaft position sensor. So my question to you guys or girls is whether this is the definite end to the engine of my traffic or is there any hope that the engine is fine and that the cambelt slipped without damaging the engine. The engine still turns over but doesn't ignite.is there any way of telling if there is definite damage to the head? The van is worth about 2000£ so if it needs a new head then it may find a home at the scrap yard. I appreciate any help.
 

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normally it just jumps a couple of teeth and puts the timing out. You should be able to fit a new belt and retime. Assuming you havent heard any bangs lol.
 

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Thanks electric7831, I've been debating what to do but I'll get in opened up to have a look tomorrow and see what I find. Do you know if retiming an engine is something I can do myself or should I get it into a specialist to sort that out?
 

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You only destroy the lump once , thats when the belt snaps and you hear a large bang. Belt kit around £70 from e bay, get a gates one and the timing marks on it and this will retime it for you.
 

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Hi jblue - sorry to hear about your trouble!

Most of the time, a slipped/snapped cambelt is the end of a head, or at least a set of valves. However, don't write the van off just yet! I've lost a cambelt twice, both times on engines supposedly of the interference type (where the valves sit lower than the TDC of the pistons) and both times I've got away with it by replacing the cam belt, and with a good bit of luck!
If it were my van, I would replace the belt and give it a whirl! If it's knackered, you've got the choice of a new/reworked head or a call to the scrappers (or stick it on ebay for spares/repairs). It does sound like the belt has certainly moved position, as the crank and cam shaft sensors will be reading different positions, hence why you get a fault code appearing.
As Churchill said (the PM not the dog) - never ever ever give up!

Good luck with it!
 

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I can talk you through the process if you want to do it yourself, its a simple enough job and a basic socket set and strong arm for the crank bolt
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Great, I'll
Keep you guys posted on my progress, if I can figure out how to save a photo under 1 mb then I'll upload some photos as well. The way the aa guy was talking sounded like every time I tried to turn on the engine and it turned over I was bending everything out even more. Do you know if when I get the new cambelt on will I need to have the computer erased before it will alow me to start? I'll be in touch soon.
 

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If damage has occured then it would have been the first time the belt jumped, as long as the belt is intact you cant fo further damage. I bought a non runner on which the aux belt had frayed and jumped the cam belt, 2 so called mechanics had tried to fix it but couldn't, I listenedto what the seller said about the ssequence of events before it stop running and diagnosed it straight away. Didnt tell him, just bought it. Once home I looked at the aux belt and realised why the belt hsd frayed, it was the wrong one, should have been a 5 but a 6 had been put on , so it was over hanging the pulley. Fitted new belts and it fired up. Its worth you getting a Op Com for your vsn to read and erase codes. On e bay for £15 or so. Well worth the money
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alright so I've run into an issue getting to the cam belt. Basically it looks like engine mount is in the way of getting to the cambelt. There is one bolt for the soundproofing cambelt protection which is under this mount. So my question is, do I need to prop up the engine then take off the mount to get the job done or is there a way around this? I'm sure I sound like a total punter but that's because I am.. I'm not really in a financial position to hire someone to do the work so I'm hoping I can get through this on my own..
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've had a closer look and it seems the engine will definitely need to be supported somehow because the right hand engine bracket definitely needs to be removed. Does anyone have any recommendations on the safest and cheapest way to do this is? Could I just get a bunch of breeze blocks and rest in on that? The bolts on the bracket seemed really hard to undo, hopefully with the weight life's off them they will ease up a bit..
 

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Get yourself a trolley jack and support the engine . You will need to remove the engine mount.

Dont waste your time fitting a new timing kit only to find it still wont run. Youll need to get the camshaft sprocket off while youre at it to make sure the woodruff key hasnt broken. Its designed to shear off if theres any internal contact between the valves and pistons. It simply means that the sprocket will die before the valves. Which is imo a great idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for that info. I haven't read anything about a woodruff key, is this a fairly straight forward thing to fix or replace? I'm not really sure what I'm looking for. I'll get the camshaft sprocket off and have a look at what I can see
 

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There is no fix as the woodruff key is part of the sprocket.
If its broken youll need to replace the sprocket.
Also its slightly more involved as youll need to loosen the diesel pump mount out of the way before you can remove the cam sprocket for inspection.
 

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When changing or removing mounts I find a trolley jack under the block with a nice big wide bit of hardwood to spread the weight is enough.

Plusgas or equivalent is good for cracking those bolts, douse it and let it stand for a good while. A little bit of diesel works similarly.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I now have full access the the timing belt and I have found a small bit of the alternator belt under a few teeth in one spot. It was raising the belt about 2 millimetres in that spot. Besides that the belt looks fine and not in bad condition, I will change it tomorrow and see if I can get it going. I have noticed that there are two marks on the belt and the camshaft sprocket. One is white and directly in the middle and the other is red and slightly offset. The two lines don't line up at the same time, the red mark lines up about half a rotation of the crankshaft before the White. I expect that the White line will be the one to line up with? Once I have aligned the new timing belt would the engine code need to be erased before it will start? At this point once the new belt is on and fire it up should it simply start up? I'm trying to find the least expensive way of finding out wether or not the engine head needs replacing because for a job this big I will probably have to just scrap the thing.

In regards to the belt removal I'm a little unclear as to where I am meant to mark the belt and the sprockets, and if the belt jumped could that mean that one of the sprockets needs to be turned independently to realign the two?
 

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The whole engine needs to be set up properly. Ie . The crankshaft needs to be located correctly by removing a plug thats located in the front of the block and doweled using a 8mm drill.
Also youll need to remove the rocker cover to ensure you have the valves of number one cylinder shut.
Otherwise yoy may be setting it up 180 degrees out.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks billy, this guide is much better than the Haynes manual that I'm using. I still can't find the bolt that needs to be removed to get the 8mm pin in to lock the crank shaft. The picture they have provided is too close to get a reference, it says the rear right of the cylinder block in the manual. I don't want to start undoing bolts in hopes to find the right one :unsure:
 
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