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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Astra (T3000) 2.0TD LS 16v - no power!

I everyone, this is my first post.

PROBLEM
Engine has no power. Engine warning light comes on if you accelerate hard. Engine revs up slowly and revs drop off quickly when changing gear. Can only get up hills at 30 mph without engine warning/light cutting in.

RECENT HISTORY
Used Bio Diesel from March to November 2008!
Changed fuel-filter every 3 months.
July: Engine warning light came on a couple of times when accelerating hard when the car was cold. Generally OK.
November: Noticed drop in power. Thought it was the bio diesel and cold weather, so changed to regular diesel.
Still drop in power: Changed air-filter and fuel-filter. Bottom of fuel-filter case has treacle substance!!!!!!!! Old bio diesel clogging together?
Car a bit better for but only for a short time.
Power has now dropped right off. Car has to be driven by ‘short-shifting’ everywhere. Struggles up any kind of hill. Putting foot down brings on engine warning/light. Free-wheeling down hill fast - the warning light flickers on and off.

Taken it to Vauxhall garage for diagnostic test. Came with 3 faults, 2 which are P0100 and P1125. They said it could be a number of things and wasn't worth it to check it. Could cost £100's. They suggested I should check; pick up filter in fuel tank for blockage. Could also be sticking air valve in inlet manifold. (It does drip some oil from the turbo pipe connection.

I thought it was a damaged injection pump? Cost £1500

Is it low fuel pressure or is it restricted air flow?

Any ideas welcome please. regards, Ian
 

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I everyone, this is my first post.

PROBLEM
Engine has no power. Engine warning light comes on if you accelerate hard. Engine revs up slowly and revs drop off quickly when changing gear. Can only get up hills at 30 mph without engine warning/light cutting in.
check vac pipes on engine and valves nearside wing

RECENT HISTORY
Used Bio Diesel from March to November 2008
Changed fuel-filter every 3 months.!.
you vehicle is not designed to run on bio diesel you may have rubber pipes perished on fuel system .
July: Engine warning light came on a couple of times when accelerating hard when the car was cold. Generally OK.
November: Noticed drop in power. Thought it was the bio diesel and cold weather, so changed to regular diesel.
Still drop in power: Changed air-filter and fuel-filter. Bottom of fuel-filter case has treacle substance!!!!!!!! Old bio diesel clogging together?
Car a bit better for but only for a short time.
Power has now dropped right off. Car has to be driven by ‘short-shifting’ everywhere. Struggles up any kind of hill. Putting foot down brings on engine warning/light. Free-wheeling down hill fast - the warning light flickers on and off.
check cranksensor

Taken it to Vauxhall garage for diagnostic test. Came with 3 faults, 2 which are P0100 and P1125. They said it could be a number of things and wasn't worth it to check it. Could cost £100's. They suggested I should check; pick up filter in fuel tank for blockage. Could also be sticking air valve in inlet manifold. (It does drip some oil from the turbo pipe connection.

I thought it was a damaged injection pump? Cost £1500

Is it low fuel pressure or is it restricted air flow?

Any ideas welcome please. regards, Ian
1125 indicates vac leak which corresponds to the faults you have check all vac connections

p100 indicatews maf problem would rectify first fault of vac
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi everyone, Sorry for the delay in a reply as I couldn't do any work on it last week because of a bad back!
Did some work on it today. I had the sender unit out of the tank and it was clean of any bio-diesel residue. Fuel pipes clear. Changed fuel filter again. So the problem is at the front of the car. Took out the EGR value on the top of the manifold and it was severely gunged up! Cleaned it up and got it in to a working fashion - it moves now! When running the car the EGR solenoid valve makes a buzzing noise - is this a malfunction? I also checked the movement of the 'Inlet manifold switchover valve', which was free moving. A point to note on this. When the engine has just been started and you rev it, the Inlet manifold switch valve moves once and then not at all. I would have thought this should move every time the engine is revved. If so this could be causing air starvation to the engine? Could this be a problem with its solenoid swith not working?
Also note that the oil is pretty black so the engine has some wear - could have been clocked before I got it?
Finally this could be unrelated, but it has started dropping an 'amber coloured' fluid from under the front bumper. Its not oil from the engine or oil diesel. Could it be a leaking air conditioning fluid?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I it's me again. I seem to be answering my own questions. Searched the forum for 'solenoid vacuum switch' and it brought up some useful treads, including some good ones on the vectra threads. Some one mentioned changing all the plastic pipes on the vacuum circuit, even if they seem OK. I changed them with some nylon piping I have and tested it and its A LOT BETTER. I think the problem is a leak some where restricting the engine reving above 3,000 rpm. Now I need to get the correct 4mm plastic piping and rubber elbows and replace the whole system. Would I have to buy this from Vauxhall or is there a factors who could supply it? Answer much appreciated - thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi again, Checked and moved all the vac solenoid switches around to different positions. They work OK. Checked and replaced all vac pipes. The vac system is working OK, but still no engine power!
Is it possible to check the crank and maf sensors, or do you just have to swap them with new?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's looking like I've damaged the fuel pump and it is going to have to be replaced! Is it something I can do my self? Reading my Haines Manual it says I need a special tool for removing Pump sprockets - is there a work around? If I did rebuild it - what does the computer resetting do? Any info welcome or the MOT man might not pass it and it will have to be scrapped!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just keeping you up to date. Car virtually undriveable tonight with no power. Struggle to pull in 3rd and only just got home in 2nd. I think the fuel pump in completely knackered because of the bio diesel. Not worth it to fix it. £500 plus labour (£1000-£1500).
Car going to the scrappers when I've found a replacement!
I was thinking about getting another Astra, but reading these threads puts me off getting another!
 

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2.ol Dti

Diesels usually do cover a lot of miles but my R reg, mint condition, Vectra 2.l dti packed in at 61.000 miles owing to pump failure and owing to the cost of repair ended up being scrapped . It was simpler and cheaper to buy a newer Astra 1.6 16v CD with 57,000 miles on the clock. Have no regrets and running costs about the same, maybe less, owing to the difference in price of petrol and diesel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, like a fool I've gone and bought another Astra Estate! This time its a 1.7TDi with 46,000 miles on the clock. CD player, Air Con and ABS. Is there anything I should look out for?
P.S. The car above has 15" wheels (same as my 2.0DT), but a 1.7DT1 I looked earlier had 14" wheels? Is this correct?
P.P.S. What should I do with the 2.0DT? Scrap or non runner? Mechanic offered £150 and said he'd drop a replacement engine in it!
 

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change crank sensor and try to sell it
 

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on the end of the camshaft is the vacumn pump is there a good vacumn the 3 valves need a good vacumn but it also uses the same pump for the brake servo so is the brake pedal a lot harder when the car is running the on the second pump of the pedal if so could be vacumn loss and on comes the light .try blocking the brake servo pipe up and try again . remember the brake wont be good though
 
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