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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, i had an issue with my car overheating so i checked my car fan relays. When putting one of them back in, it starts buzzing/making a crackling/popping noise. Ignition was off when we did this.


Every time we pushed the relay in a little, the front fan would start to turn. Then, all of a sudden, the car wouldn't start. I got the RAC out and he said it's your starter as you are getting 12v to the solenoid but the starter isn't turning. (car doesn't even attempt to start). I then stupidly got a new starter and stuck that in. Didn't work. Same issue.


We pushed the car and got it started but it was in limp mode. I then drove down a slight hill and turned the car off and back on but it wouldn't even attempt to start it.


I've swapped the relays around with a different one for the starter etc but it's still not starting. Lights work, heater inside works, wipers etc all work.


The car is now showing lots of the below messages when i plugged it into opcom: P0615-02 Starter Relay Circuit low voltage
P1483-02 Fan Control 3 Circuit low voltage
P1481-02 Fan Control 1 Circuit low voltage
P1482-02 Fan Control 2 Circuit low voltage
P0380-02 Glow Device Circuit low voltage
P1180-02 Fuel Filter Heater low voltage
P0403-02 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit low voltage
P0638-02 Electronic Throttle Control low voltage
P1530-02 A/C Relay low voltage
P1614-02 Wrong Transponder key
P0243-02 Boost pressure Valve Low Voltage

I did try my spare key as well but it did the same thing. Battery all checks up fine, shows 12.5V. Also shows 12.5 at starter but i think the problem isn't the starter, seems like something else as it happened after i pushed the relay back in and it started crackling/popping etc.


Any help would be appreciated guys. Thank you
 

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Fuse FE26 10A supplies power to all these so should sort these fault codes
P1180-02 Fuel Filter Heater low voltage
P0403-02 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit low voltage
P0638-02 Electronic Throttle Control low voltage
P0243-02 Boost pressure Valve Low Voltage

The Starter relay is covered by a square slow blow fuse,,.. fuse FE18..

The Fan Relays are cover by a square slow blow fuse,,.. FE5 40A and FE6 40A

The numbers on the fuses below are correct and relate to the fuses you need to check that i've listed above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Andy,

Thank you for your in depth reply. I have checked all the fuses and they all seem fine.

I swapped them out with new ones too just in case but still the same issue.
 

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When you switch the ignition on do you get a engine management light and a car/spanner light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Andy,

Yes i get all the lights come on the dashboard like normal, the spanner light does not flash, just stays solid like usual.
 

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Then try taking the fuse box apart and check the plugs below for water ingress and corrosion, there are some guides around on removing the UEC,, .fuse box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Andy,

Is it not just a coincidence that they all stopped working when i pushed a relay in and it started popping/crackling? I've checked the big fuses right at the top of the fuse box too and they seemed fine.

When i pushed it in and started to hear crackling/popping, the fan behind the radiator would start itself without me even turning ignition on etc :/
 

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Yes it sounds like somethings shorting out, if none of the codes are clearing down and your 100% sure the fuses are in the correct slots and in good order then the next thing to check is the UEC. They are prone to getting water in.
You said you were suffering from overheating, was this because the fan was not coming on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok will take a look at the UEC. So i just unscrew the nuts inside the fuse box and lift it straight of?

Yes correct, my temperature would raise to around 97 degrees before a fan would kick in. I then got a few overheating error codes such as the below so i thought i'd check the relays. I tapped them a few times first and they started buzzing very very loudly then would stop so i thought it's the connection and took them out and reseated them and pushed them in and that's when i started getting the issue

The overheating codes were:
P1483 - Engine Cooling System Performance P1481 - Cooling Fan Speed Signal Lost P1482 - Cooling Fan Circuit Condition
 

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I would definitely do the fuse box next.
Just undo the 3 torxs bolts, they dont come all the way out, they stay in the fuse box and there is a 10mm nut in the corner then the top should just prise out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi guys,

Just an update. I dropped the car off to a garage instead to let them see if there was something obvious wrong. Garage have done checks and they think it's the ECU that's gone. Could that be a possibility from me just unplugging and pushing relays back in? :/
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi chaps, just an update.

I removed the wiring loom from the fuse box to the ecu. Tested it all properly and all was fine. Only 2 things i can put it down to:
1. Fuse Box /Underhool Electronic Module
2. ECU

All fuses etc are all fine. When i then the key, i can hear the relay trying to fire but the car won't attempt to start. When putting a lead on from the starter relay to the negative of the battery, the car turns over.

I also downloaded TIS2000, tried going through the diagnostics there, removed the ecu loom, did a test and there was 12v coming up from there into the relay. Also did another test where we connected the lead to the ecu loom and then to the car battery (negative connection on the battery) and the car was trying to turn over but wouldn't start.

Can someone please help me out? Been without a car for 2 weeks and no garage have time to diagnose properly. All wires etc are all perfectly fine.

Can only put it down to the 2 things...
 

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Yes thats Opcom, connect it up and go to the engine page, then click on Measuring Blocks, Data list 1, bottom left of the page that opens will be a Record button, click on that and a info box will open asking you where to save the .CSV file that will be created, from the dropdown box choose Desktop, then click Save, Opcom will now be recording the ecu data, so turn the key a couple of times like your trying to start it, once your done turn the ignition off and the file will save automatically, now find the file on your desktop, right click on it and zip it up and upload it here using the upload a file button on this page.
I will have a quick look at it to see if anything not working properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Hi Andy, firstly i really really appreciate you lookint into this for me. So once again thank you. Ive uploaded the test that you told me to do... I can hear the fuel pump primingm but when i turn the key nothing happens at all.. Ignition status shows on12v but as soon as the fuel pump stops priming it turns to off. n one of the test i pressed the gas pedal too but again nothing. Engine doesnt even try to turn over. Just a click and thats it... Really hope you can help me get this sorted.. Ive checked the wiring loom from the ECU to the fuse box and tested each and every pin and they were fine. Also tested the earth connection next to the battery on the chassis and that was fine. Currently got a wire inside the starter relay, when i touch the negative of the battery the car will fire up but stay in limp mode. Garage installed it temporary to get me about local. Its from one the left pin not sure pin number)but the left pin under the relay and all i do is touch the battery and that kicks start turning the engine. I have put a new starter in too and its still the same. Also swapped out the fuse box for another fuse box with the exact same code and still the same. The only thing we kept the same when changing the fuse box was the card inside the fuse box. Thank you guys

PS..Ive had to zip the file, wont let me attach a CSV file on its own. Thank you
 

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