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Discussion Starter #1
Planning on changing the brake shoes this weekend (I've never looked inside a drum before...) and read the haynes manual in preparation, and I have two queries.

Firstly, once the shoes are removed, it says I then need to remove the hubs. I don't particularly want to do this, partly because it means I'll need to make a special trip out to buy a new split pin etc, but also I know that they tend to be torqued up hery high, thus I am unlikely to be able to undo it (I have no breaker bar)

Secondly, it says I need to smear a bit of 'brake grease' to the shoe rubbing area on the backplate. Do they mean copper grease (which I already have), or is this something different?

Thanking you muchly,
Chris
 

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CavWebs Thin lizzy Dude
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Don't know about the brake grease stuff, but I've never taken the hubs off any car to replace the rear shoes? Just pulled off all the springs etc & fitted new shoes where old ones just came from?

A good tip for ease of future removals is when you have the drum off, there may well be a 'lip' on the outer edge where the shoes have worn away the central part. I find by grinding this lip flat it helps to get the drum off again at later stages should you require it.
 

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Keep buying Astras........
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Chris12345 said:
Planning on changing the brake shoes this weekend (I've never looked inside a drum before...) and read the haynes manual in preparation, and I have two queries.

Firstly, once the shoes are removed, it says I then need to remove the hubs. I don't particularly want to do this, partly because it means I'll need to make a special trip out to buy a new split pin etc, but also I know that they tend to be torqued up hery high, thus I am unlikely to be able to undo it (I have no breaker bar)

Secondly, it says I need to smear a bit of 'brake grease' to the shoe rubbing area on the backplate. Do they mean copper grease (which I already have), or is this something different?

Thanking you muchly,
Chris
Copper-Eaze will do fine, just make sure you do not get any grease on the friction surface. Also, add some grease to the self-adjusters, remove lip on brake drum is poss, adjust self-adjusters till you can just get the drum back on and away you go.
 

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I got the impression that removing the hub was just for easier access, )can be a pain to get the springs back on, hub off just gives you more room!)
 

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Yes the hub nut is not tight at all, its literally done up with a small handle so should be very easy to remove, noooooo need for a breaker bar.
When i remove the drums i usually do it with the hub too by popping out the cap in the middle, removing the nut and pulling the drum off that way, more room that way
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So not difficult to get hub nut off? Oh, OK! If it's not done up that tightly, do I need to bother replacing the hub nut & split pin, or is it possible & safe to re-use the old ones?
 

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8v Power!
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replace the split pin yes, as I beleive its the only thing that holds the nut in place. correct me if im wrong
 

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Just working on mine now, didnt even need a bar to remove the hub nut, was only finger tight! New split pin, only cost me a quid for a box of 10.
Now all i got to do is put the bugger back together, but its snowing again
 

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VxOn's Nissan Advocate
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the hub nut shouldnt be that tight tbh, not like a front one.
a breaker bar is not required. an impact driver can be handy of the screw in the centre of the drum, if u'r leaving the hub on.
 
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