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Hello to everyone,

I am new to the forum although I’ve used the info on this forum quite a few times in the past.

My Zafira A 2.0 DTI 2002 will not start. I’ve had this vehicle for over 5 years now and it’s been great! We just came back from Corsica driving it all over France and Italy.

About two weeks ago, for the first time, the car wouldn’t start. After cleaning the EGR Valve (that was replaced about a year ago) and housing and using some Cold Start, I’ve managed to start the car.

Last Friday, on my way to work, after driving about half an hour (car reached normal temp’) the engine cut off and started again a few times until eventually it would not start again.

I had to tow the car and since last Friday it would not start. I can start it for a few seconds if I spray Cold Start into the air intake but as soon as no spray is applied the engine shuts off.

I’ve replaced the fuel filter, diesel return pipes and will change the camshaft sensor in the next day or two when it arrives. I’ve also checked all the fuses inside and in the engine box. I have a full tank of diesel (when it happened, I had about 20 litres left in the tank).

These are the codes that were given when connected to OP-COM:

Initial reading on Friday after towing the car:

OP-COM 100219a - PC based diagnostic tool

OP-COM - KW2000 Communication Window> 2002 (2)|Zafira|Engine|Y 20 DTH

Keyword #1: 6B

Keyword #2: 8F

Normal timing parameter set.

VIN: W0L0TGF7522069567

vehicleManufacturerECUHardwareNumber 24417169 PD

systemSupplierECUHardwareNumber: BOS 010505

systemSupplierECUHardwareVersionNumber: FF

systemSupplierECUSoftwareNumber: KM7M3040_S

systemSupplierECUSoftwareVersionNumber: 0006

exhaustRegulationOrTypeApprovalNumber: B01015

systemNameOrEngineType: Y20DTH D3

RepairShopCodeOrTesterSerialNumber: S001001775

ProgrammingDate: 20020715

Identifier: 0548

VehicleManufacturerSpecific: 0281010268



Total number of fault codes: 4

P0400 - Critical system malfunction 1 (refer to checking procedure: trouble code description)

(03) - Not present

P0100 - Critical system malfunction 1 (refer to checking procedure: trouble code description)

(06) - Not present

P0703 - Brake-Light Switch Circuit Incorrect Signal (Ignition On)

(0B) - Not present

P1345 - Critical system malfunction 1 (refer to checking procedure: trouble code description)

(0A) - Not present



2nd Reading I took later when trying to start the car:

OP-COM 100219a - PC based diagnostic tool

OP-COM - KW2000 Communication Window> 2002 (2)|Zafira|Engine|Y 20 DTH

Keyword #1: 6B

Keyword #2: 8F

Normal timing parameter set.

VIN: W0L0TGF7522069567

vehicleManufacturerECUHardwareNumber 24417169 PD

systemSupplierECUHardwareNumber: BOS 010505

systemSupplierECUHardwareVersionNumber: FF

systemSupplierECUSoftwareNumber: KM7M3040_S

systemSupplierECUSoftwareVersionNumber: 0006

exhaustRegulationOrTypeApprovalNumber: B01015

systemNameOrEngineType: Y20DTH D3

RepairShopCodeOrTesterSerialNumber: S001001775

ProgrammingDate: 20020715

Identifier: 0548

VehicleManufacturerSpecific: 0281010268

Total number of fault codes: 2

P1660 - Fuel Cutoff Solenoid Circuit High Input

(0B) - Not present

P1345 - Critical system malfunction 1 (refer to checking procedure: trouble code description)

(0A) - Not present


*When connected to another version of OP-COM (mine is the China clone) it gave these codes:


P1345 Injection Pump: critical Malfunction

P1660 - Fuel Cutoff Solenoid Circuit High Input


Any advice will be highly appreciated!

Ed
 
Has anyone got an up to date source for the DTI leak off piping and T's at a good price?

I've got all the classic symptoms listed of an airlock on my 2004 Zafira Dti and I'd like to give this a try before consigning a perfectly good car to the scrapyard :S
 
Is there a particular specification bore/size etc though that I should be trying to get hold of?
I'm nervous of just going in and asking for Zafira DTI leak off pipe without knowing the sizes/specs etc I should be looking for - I've read 3.2mm internal bore and 1m length but would would be good to get some confirmation.
I'd assume they'd be able to supply fittings if they stocked the right size pipe but its getting this right I want to be sure of - Its also far easier to order online when you're stuck at a desk 8am-7pm as the factors are all shut by the time I get there :S
 
I found the "T" pieces are best from the "stealers" as they are nice and big so better fitting. Halfrauds and car spare sell much smaller sized fittings that are ok but just dont last as long.

The tubing ideally is 3mm ID as its tighter BUT 3.2mm is still great on the bigger stealer fittings.
 
Has anyone got an up to date source for the DTI leak off piping and T's at a good price?

I've got all the classic symptoms listed of an airlock on my 2004 Zafira Dti and I'd like to give this a try before consigning a perfectly good car to the scrapyard :S
I was in a similar situation, I changed mine using normal leak off pipes you can buy just about anywhere (halfords, ebay etc..) whilst they do fit and they do work they are not quite as tight fitting or robust as the proper vauxhall ones. Mine leaked after a few months so I got the proper ones, I found them on ebay for £11 with T pieces. I would also look at the fuel filter housing if I were you as mine had a leak as well on the inlet, I ended up fitting a priming bulb which helped me find both leaks by increasing the fuel pressure so you can see it easier. Be careful pulling the old ones off, sometimes a bit can get stuck oninside, also be careful not to damage the metal connector if you use pliers etc...

handy guide here:

https://www.kiphakes.com/2014/03/replace-fuel-spill-leak-pipes-vauxhall-zafira-dti.html

good luck
 
Hi Guys.
I've had a problem where my Astra g 2.0dti with the y20 dth engine won' start unless the dreaded easy start is used. Once started it runs fine. I'e had diagnostics test and the pump is struggling to pull the fuel up from the tank for the initial start. I' looking at fitting a priming bulb for a temporary fix whilst I find a new car to draw the fuel through the pump and injectors to get it running for now ( I know it' only a matter of time before it completely dies). Just need someone to confirm that this is the fuel return pipe with the jubilee clip on to the right of the filter just below the bottom of the filter and that this is where I should put the bulb to prime and hopefully stop drain back.
Fuel line Auto part Engine Pipe Hose
Auto part Fuel line Vehicle Automotive exterior Engine

The jubilee clip is near enough dead centre on the 2nd picture.

Update...Odd but today the car fired up straight away no problems. Outdoor temp is higher than has been the past week or so.
Could the person who did the diagnostics be wrong or can the fuel pump be temperamental to temperature changes or does it sound more like potential injector o rings letting air in on cold days?
 
Hi Guys.
I've had a problem where my Astra g 2.0dti with the y20 dth engine won' start unless the dreaded easy start is used. Once started it runs fine. I'e had diagnostics test and the pump is struggling to pull the fuel up from the tank for the initial start. I' looking at fitting a priming bulb for a temporary fix whilst I find a new car to draw the fuel through the pump and injectors to get it running for now ( I know it' only a matter of time before it completely dies). Just need someone to confirm that this is the fuel return pipe with the jubilee clip on to the right of the filter just below the bottom of the filter and that this is where I should put the bulb to prime and hopefully stop drain back. View attachment 67657 View attachment 67665
The jubilee clip is near enough dead centre on the 2nd picture.

Update...Odd but today the car fired up straight away no problems. Outdoor temp is higher than has been the past week or so.
Could the person who did the diagnostics be wrong or can the fuel pump be temperamental to temperature changes or does it sound more like potential injector o rings letting air in on cold days?

My car has similar problems to yours, If you follow the fuel pipe back to the pump the return should be number 2 in this diagram:

https://mopar1973man.com/storage/at...ig23.jpg.4ca64326d9687a01db4511ec6bdbb255.jpg


I think the injector seals have gone on mine but here's a few things that might help, dont let the fuel tank go below half, dont park uphill, try unplugging the coolant thermostat on the left side of the engine, this tricks the glowplugs to stay on longer and increases compression (I think), also undo the fuel cap so a vacuum doesn't build up. My car starts when its bloody cold and when its warm, but about 7 to 11 degrees its a pain in the arse. I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is fine as when its running it no symptoms at all. Hope this helps, good luck.
 
I have a 60 plate Vauxhall zafira diesel b and the engine is hunting when it's ticking over I've done the pedal test and it's come up with a code ecn 10028 the car has done 54000 could anyone help please what it could be please
 
Hi Guys.
I've had a problem where my Astra g 2.0dti with the y20 dth engine won' start unless the dreaded easy start is used. Once started it runs fine. I'e had diagnostics test and the pump is struggling to pull the fuel up from the tank for the initial start. I' looking at fitting a priming bulb for a temporary fix whilst I find a new car to draw the fuel through the pump and injectors to get it running for now ( I know it' only a matter of time before it completely dies). Just need someone to confirm that this is the fuel return pipe with the jubilee clip on to the right of the filter just below the bottom of the filter and that this is where I should put the bulb to prime and hopefully stop drain back. View attachment 67657 View attachment 67665
The jubilee clip is near enough dead centre on the 2nd picture.

Update...Odd but today the car fired up straight away no problems. Outdoor temp is higher than has been the past week or so.
Could the person who did the diagnostics be wrong or can the fuel pump be temperamental to temperature changes or does it sound more like potential injector o rings letting air in on cold days?
You could fit a oneway valve on the line to the pump - I have fitted one to my Zafira on the feed into the filter housing but may fit another to the pump feed to catch any leak back in the filter housing as well as the pump seals.

Would start by replacing the usual culprits - leak off and "T" pieces, Fuel filter and seal and injector seals - all else fails you can replace the pump and if you are lucky and its the single connector version they can be overhauled.
 
Hi first thing to check is the leak off pipes these are the small bore material covered pipes that run from each injector to the fuel pump
the new modified hose comes in a 1 meter length current part number 93181131 Cost £16.61 there is just enough to do all required so do not get overly generous just measure up with the pipe to be replaced - if you have difficulty getting this pipe it is available from Greasemonkeys Garage for cost plus postage just email him for further info
cheers
Steve (Greasemonkey)
Hi.
I know this was posted a very long time ago but I don't suppose you know what diameter connectors are required for this leak off pipe. Don't want to order the wrong ones or even better if someone could send me a link to somewhere on eBay selling the ones I need and also the pump to injector copper washers. Air getting in somewhere (as takes a few seconds cranking to get started or just plain doesnt start when cold) so gonna do all the leak off pipes and top injector seals in 1 go to cover everything. Pretty certain it's top injector seals as everything seems cleanish (No signs of fuel) gonna clean the swirl flaps whilst got it all cleaned down around there too. When you guys do this job do you replace the rocker cover gasket each time or just use the one that's on there?
Thanks in advance all.
Matt
 
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