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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have just attempted my 1st ever clutch change and am now wishing I hadn't! The car is a 1.3 cdti corsa and I only decided to do it because the car had starting problems. Why change the clutch then? Well, when fitting the new starter motor I dropped my torx bit inside the bell housing so needed to retrieve that aswell as the biting point of the clutch being right at top of the pedal travel and there was no stamp in the service book to show it had ever been changed and having watched the 3 part video on you tube on how to do one I felt brave enough to try.

The good news is that I got the friction disc and pressure plate changed and managed to put everything back together OK, so I think?. I did not change the server & thrust bearing as I thought as they were working OK before then there was no reason the fix what wasn't broken. Also not keeping the car so wanted to keep cost to a minimum.

Problem is now the clutch has no pressure and I can't change gears.

Two things I would do differently if I ever attempted it again would be 1)change the server/thrust bearing at the same time. Lesson learnt.
2) test the clutch before resembling the subframe & wheels.

I have bled and bled the clutch but still no joy. Is there an art to it? It is on a slight slope but I have tried jacking it up to counter this.
Any ideas of things to try before I rip it all apart and start again would be appreciated?
 

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2008 Astra Twintop 1.8
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Not sure about the Corsa but on the Astra I know you have to brim the fluid reservoir in order to get the fluid down the correct side of the reservoir, it also should be pressure bled.
I can't see it being too different on the Corsa.
 

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Pressure bleed kit will save you hours of trouble, these can be purchased from most local autofactors for about 20/30 quid. Dont lose hope you WILL do it! Make sure if its the gunson eazibleed to reduce tyre pressure to what it states in the instructions!,
 

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Z12XE / Z19DT / B16DTH
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392 Posts
As you say, change everything, anything less is false economy. I've learnt the hard way myself.. Reverse Pressure Bleed it back up the way, from the Slave, then Bleed Down, as normal from the Master Cylinder. they're a right PITA to do..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the advice. Slace cylinder is here ready to fit, just need some decent weather at the weekend. Will try bleeding in both directions.
Do you pre fill/prime the slave cylinder before fitting it? Doesn't show that in the videos?
 

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Z12XE / Z19DT / B16DTH
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Don't press clutch pedal down during reverse bleeding.

Reverse bleed by connecting Ezibleed or similar to bleed nipple at CSC. Make sure Ezibleed bottle is full of brake fluid. Collection container connects to master cylinder up top. 2 bar MAX of pressure from spare tyre or whatever gives you pressure, open bleed nipple until no air bubbles are coming out of collection container connected to master cylinder up top then close Bleed Nipple.

Now, throw the Ezibleed to the side, you shouldn't need it now. Next, press down clutch pedal and hold it there with a length of wood or get a mate to keep his foot holding it down, open bleed nipple until no air escaping then close bleed nipple. Now SLOWLY release / lift up clutch pedal. Keep an eye on fluid level in Master Cylinder, top up if needed before pressing down on pedal again. Open bleed nipple until no air escaping then close bleed nipple. Keep doing this top to bottom bleeding until you get a firm pedal (can take 10-20 times to get a good firm pedal). After 10-20 bleeds you should have a good firm pedal. Also note that if you press the pedal when the bleed nipple on the CSC's open then it won't bleed the CSC, the fluid will just shoot out the bleed nipple. You need pressure in the system so any trapped air in the CSC will head for the nearest exit under pressure (the bleed nipple) (y)

This is a handy read about the "top hat seal" on the CSC pipe and how to properly replace it here

hope you get it fixed..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
After many hours of bleeding I finally got the clutch working. The problem now is that with the engine running there is a loud rattle from inside the bell housing. If I apply light pressure to the clutch pedal the rattle disappears. So my question is. Is this normal and will die down in time or have I done something wrong?
 
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