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Frontera & the ECU

Discussion in 'Other Car/Van Related Information Required / Provided' started by marknaughton, Jul 26, 2005.

  1. marknaughton

    marknaughton Guest

    Hi all,

    I posted yesterday that via this forum and TopBuzz, I had replaced the CAS on my Frontera.

    Now today, the ECU lamp is coming on again :shame: - a quick check reveals faults 31 (CAS) and 61 (Fuel Tank Vent Valve - low voltage). These are the same faults I had the other day which led me to replacing the CAS.

    I read that knocking the battery out for a while would reset the ECU but it does seem I either have a continuous fault or the ECU wasn't cleared. I have replaced the Alernator and am still getting slight squealing at cold start but I believe this is the mounting bracket that needs further tightening.

    Does anyone have any ideas what I should do next?

    Thanks for you help,

    Mark.
  2. marknaughton

    marknaughton Guest

    Hi again,

    Just read that 30 starts with 5 sec pause will reset the ECU. I'll post again if theres another problem.

    Thanks,

    Mark.
  3. marknaughton

    marknaughton Guest

    Re: Pesky ECU Lamp!

    Hi all,

    Now this ECU lamp is coming on despite the reset. Driving it this morning, I noticed the lamp came on and winked at me whenever I accelerated hard and the revs dipped slightly - now this feels like the fuel tank vent valve as per my other ECU diag code. Does anyone know where this is as the Haynes manual seems too general?

    Thanks,

    Mark.
  4. marknaughton

    marknaughton Guest

    Typical newbie question from yours truly - a more intense read of the Haynes manual states the vent vale is on top of the fuel tank - not in the engine compartment - Doh!
  5. marknaughton

    marknaughton Guest

    Further investigation...

    Hi all,

    Thought it best to post more info - in case anyone has been down this route.

    Still getting the FTVV (Code 61: Fuel Tank Vent Valve Low Voltage) fault.

    1. Cleaned the Earth points for the Fuel tank as I thought the valve was there!

    2. Realised the valve was connected to the carbon cannister on the side of the inlet manifold - cleaned the Earth connections for the alternator which I replaced.

    3. Took several voltages (2M on the Ohms part of the multimeter)

    3.1 With the ECU light on and the car hot, it gave 3.64.
    3.2 With the ECU light off and the car cold, it gave 3.66.
    3.3 With the ECU light off and the car hot, it gave 3.55.
    3.4 With the ECU light on and the car hot, it gave 3.65.

    4. Noticed that the wiring loom over the manifold had been cut into, and with a possibility that its shorting, tied the loom away and covered with tin foil to reduce the heat exposure. Also sprayed WD40 in the connection.

    5. Can now drive to work, and with the car cold, drive back okay - except when the car is hot, or as today, the ground temp is hot, the light comes on!
    :rolleyes:

    6. Decided to cut losses and buy new valve - part 1997199 at £27 inc VAT.

    Not sure if the change in voltage is due to it asking the valve to open, but still decided the valve may be at fault.

    Thats it so far - any further details - will post soon.

    Mark.
  6. Delbert

    Delbert Well-Known Member

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    Does that mean that one has to start and stop the engine 30 times with precisely a 5 second pause between each start? If that's the case, then does it mean that should the pause be (say) 4.5 or 5.5 seconds, it won't reset?
  7. Delbert

    Delbert Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, but I'm a bit confused. Does the above mean you're measuring a voltage with the meter on an Ohms setting?
  8. marknaughton

    marknaughton Guest

    Hi Delbert,

    On the meter, I turned the dial to 2M on the Ohms setting - just stuck the meter on it and recorded what I was getting. The switching off/on 30 times was a pain so I tried disconnecting the battery as well which didn't solve it.

    So, I took off the FTVV, sprayed carb cleaner in each pipe and let it drain. I reconnected, then sprayed the air intake valve with the cleaner, and touch wood, its been fine now for about 10 days. It seems that when the camshaft sensor went u/s, the engine ran rough and hence dumped a load of fuel into the engine, and so the carbon buildup started affecting the FTVV - the cleaner seems to have sorted it out and now the warning light isn't flashing.

    Mark.
  9. Delbert

    Delbert Well-Known Member

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    That to me means that you're trying to measure a voltage with the meter set to the 2megohm range! Not a good idea, me thinks. As for one, the readings can't possibly have any relationship to voltage. But then again, maybe your meter has separate test lead connections for ohms and volts, in which case the switch might have a common position for ohms and volts. But appart from that possibility, it looks like you're using the wrong switch setting. In which case, any reading will bear no relationship with any voltage which might, or might not, be present!

    As for the obstinate error codes, in my limited experience they all depend on the foresight of the programer! Usually they only account for single errors. Such that multiple faults throw everything into the air.

    You appear to report that one error code is pointing to the FTVV. What I would tend to investigate is what does a low voltage indicate. I haven't ever looked at or investigated such myself, but perhaps it means it's permanetly closed or something. Maybe something else is signalling (or not) for it to do so? Might just be a broken connection? In addition, that then might lead to knock-on effects - and so on. In my experience, computer programs aren't too good at dealing with knock-on effects!

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